Casper

and i am convinced he was wrong. He was looking at the lubricating properties of the alternatives and took no account of the lack of fluidity of the grease, nor the particular design of the lower steering swivel (LSS). Any lubricant supporting the weight of a car on the moving screw threads will be forced away from the two bearing surfaces, leaving them in direct metal to metal contact. The particular design of the LSS forces the oil up through the lands (vertical gaps or grooves passing through the threads) to coat the higher thread surfaces as they pass through the lands, ready for continued lubrication. Once grease has be squeezed out and pushed around a bit, probably blocking the lands there in no refreshing of the bearing surfaces by 'fresh' recycled lubricant. Note: it is due to the shearing action of the bearing surfaces that hypoid oil is recommended, as it is for bevel cut gears in gearboxes, etc. Again, as i recall, the contributor referred to above did not account for the resistance of hypoid oil to shearing. Slight rant over. C. BTW, the bit we are talking about is actually not the Trunnion (hence my referring to LSS). The Trunnion is the pivot with the bolt through to the wishbones. Not that it bothers me !

Unsure as to Spitfire 1500, but most switched are held by a sprung 'pip' on the shank of the switch If it's like this then that is the case:http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/triumph-spitfire-switch The pip is accessed on the knob shank on the underside. Use a very small screwdriver or similar (I use an old bike spoke) to push this in while simultaneously pulling the knob. They can be quire resistant to the pull. Edit You can see the arrangement here : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252086029235 See also: http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1610469 particularly: http://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/339859/Img_5881.jpg C

because (I assume) you have a Vitesse radiator C.

SoS: http://www.tracksideimages.uk.com/p85885526/h75b5ec3a#h75b5ec3a

You are probably well past this stage but this may help someone researching this thread: http://www.triumph-herald.com/bodynotes.pdf C.

In US, but suits the 6 indent bezels http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-switch-bezel-nut-tool-wrench-triumph-spitfire-GT6-TR4-TR6-lucas-/201118381613 or Use this item as a recipe to make your own. I might give it a try http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-ignition-switch-nut-tool-MG-Triumph-Jaguar-Austin-Healey-Rover-Jensen-/151921395675?vxp=mtr&hash=item235f3887db 11/16" 12 point socket seem to do the job C.

Just been clarifying my thoughts on this (as the question will arise again): As the twin filament bulb has a common cap, the issue may just be that the 'connection' of the bulb to the light unit is inadequate, rather than the 'connection' of the light unit to the body. Good clean (I use wheel cleaner for a lot of this type of cleanup) and protect from further corrosion with a good smear of vaseline. I advise you try this first, as, if successful, it would provide a quick fix. The power feed for the indicators is going through the indicator filament of the twin filament bulb, reaching the bulb cap and seeking earth . Due to a poor earth, at either (1) the connection of the bulb to the light unit, or (2) the connection of the light unit to the body, the power then flows through the sidelight filament of the bulb, up the sidelight wiring, across to the other sidelight, through the filament and seeks to find an earth connection here. Thus, in the commonest manifestation of this fault, the pulsed indicator current also lights both the front sidelights and perhaps also at the rear. If there is no good earth at the other paired sidelight the power will flow to the other end of the car, seeking a decent earth. At the rear, the sidelights bulbs are separated from the indicator bulb, but the light unit is common. The actual combination of effects when this occurs can vary, but the solution is the same: 1. Ensure all bulbs have a good connection to the light unit. Clean the bulb holder (I use wheel cleaner for a lot of this type of cleanup) and protect from further corrosion with a good smear of vaseline. 2. The fixing screws for the light unit act as an earth. Check, clean and protect (Waxoyl) the earth connection created by this mounting. It may be advisable to add an earth 'tail' from the light unit to a suitable (existing or new) earth connection to the body. Similar treatment should apply to all light fittings. C.

depending on your plans for the future you could consider (I probably wouldn't) fitting a dedicated earth wire. C.

You need to check and clean all earth points: The power for the indicators is going through the indicator bulb, finding it's way towards earth, not finding the true earth, but finding the earth connector for the sidelights (which also has no true earth). Therefore, if runs (backwards) via the earth connection through the sidelights, trying to find an earth. It's a common problem, and it you are going to start on electrics, checking, cleaning and 'improving' ALL earth connections is a good place to start. Some units have no actual earth return (black) wire, but are earthed via the mounting screws, etc. C.

and check the connections at the bottom of the steering column. C.

. . . but early models had a warning sign on the back " 4 wheel brakes". This even though the brake drums were pressed steel and flexed (later went to cast). Many in the '20s had only rear brakes. C.

Back at that time Mike Papworth was his top teeth and gears man. He will no doubt know. C.

I've tracked down the JK method from a message board way back in 2003. Been using it ever since. " UJ Removal – The JK patented method The patented JK UJ removal method is the best thing since sliced bread: Remove all circlips - if right handed hold the halfshaft in your left hand around the mid point, and hit the outside of the separate flange (copper hammer is best) so the downward pointing UJ cup is knocked out; Turn the shaft through 180 degrees and again hit the outside edge of the flange to knock the other cup out (or at least they come out far enough to grab them in a vice). After removing said flange this leaves two exposed sticky out bits of the UJ, these can be rested across vice jaws and the copper hammer can then be aimed at the yoke on the halfshaft so the upward pointing cup pops upwards, turn through 180 and a couple of taps with the hammer and the last cup pops up and the UJ is out. With a bit of practice virtually any UJ can be removed in under a minute (once all the clips are out). If a clip breaks or is very tight it is far easier to get at it by pushing the cup in very slightly once the opposing cup has been taken out. John Kipping 24/6/03 Old rusty UJs certainly need some whacking to get them out - if in doubt use a bigger hammer. John Kipping 26/6/03 " C.

To save time and effort in dispersing the hornet's nest, see: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm . . . which, in summary, says: Summary: So what have I learned: Silicone based DOT5 fluid has a higher dry boiling temperature that DOT3 & DOT 4 fluids. All glycol-based fluids (DOT3 DOT4 & DOT5.1) can quickly absorb moisture that lowers the boiling point to the wet minimum DOT specification or in many cases even lower. In one study virtually all glycol-based systems examined after 24 or more months use had the 3.5% or greater moisture content used for the wet boiling point specifications. In some cases, this much absorption occurred in as little as a few months as the vehicles sat on new car lots. Silicone based DOT5 fluid has a much higher real wet boiling point than any of the glycol-based fluids discussed here because it absorbs very little water and the wet boiling point is essentially the same as the dry boiling point. Silicone based DOT 5 fluid prevents entry of moisture and salt into the brake system through the hoses. Silicone based DOT 5 fluid was reported to be compatible with all types of brake seals way back in the the early 70's. Silicone based fluid doesn't mix with glycol-based fluid. Extensive testing of brake systems with 50/50 mixes of silicone and glycol-based fluids have shown that the mixtures performed properly with no failures recorded. Silicone based DOT5 fluid is slightly compressible but the compressibility is manageable at temperatures below which the standard Glycol fluids vapor lock (wet boiling point). Silicone based fluid retains small suspended air bubbles. This requires extra care when filling the reservoir and may require a subsequent bleeding a few days after first filling the system to extract any air bubbles that remained in suspension during the initial bleeding. Glycol-based fluids attack paint whereas the silicone fluids do not. I know which 'side' I'm on but you must make up your own mind. Now, I'm 'out' C.

Don't tap, HIT it ! It may need to be hard, but it should come fairly easily if you use the method here: http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!hints--tips/cdwh I'm a fan of the original John Kipping method but Bill has great experience and this method will work fine. I use a <edit> LARGE <edit/> wooden mallet, specifically kept for the purpose. Getting the circlips out is normally the hard part. C.

You do have to develop 'momentum management techniques. From about Feb 1965 (Engine No. GA178101E on ) the 1200 was pushing out a massive 48 bhp. C.

Part No. 145108 Bush, nylon. 1/4" dia x 2/10" tall

This may be unnecessarily complicated, but: Seat Fitting Problems can often be found with seats that have been incorrectly refitted after being removed. There are some minor variations in detail over the models and period of production but I believe the following should apply to all variations. Components and terminology: Seat runners - fitted to the floor, have holes for the adjuster to register in. Subframe - runs on runners, includes adjuster lever on one side only. Has two brackets on the front, each with two holes arranged one ABOVE the other. On one side the bracket is square and straight, and on the other side the holes are set forward, so the bracket is shaped like a B. Seat frame - on which seat is built. Brackets at the front have two holes arranged one BEHIND the other. Fitting: Seat runners should be fitted with holes to the rear, fixed with 5/16" UNF bolts, and with 1/2" spacers (thick washers) under each bolt. Captive nut on turret at the rear is FQ3406 (should be available from the usual suspects). The sub-frames are handed: you should have a pair. They should be fitted so that the adjuster lever and catch is nearest the transmission tunnel. This adjuster should mate with the holes in the seat runner (but won't if the seat runner has been fitted back to front). This ensures that the holes on the bracket on the door side are a smidgen further forward than the transmission tunnel side, i.e. the B shaped bracket is nearest the door. Choose between the high and the low hole on the seat sub-frame. This adjusts rake and/or height (with blocks). Use the foremost hole on the seat frame bracket for the door side (ie the side where the sub-frame holes are further forward) and the rearmost hole on the seat frame bracket on the tunnel side. This means that the seat sits square on the sub-frame. The fact that the pivot point is slightly angled, means that when the seat is tipped forward, the top moves inwards and does not hit the A post/windscreen surround.

Carl Heinlen, John C.

Funny. I hadn't looked, but that was my recollection, too C.

I believe they are Vauxhall. Cresta or similar. Recently, the Courier published a spares list (I will try to look it out). Guy (Bond Register Sec) will be able to help. I am sure he would appreciate contact. He may well know your car and some of its history. <edit> It's in the Courier 428 February this year ! Page 63. I was correct, 2L rear lights are Vauxhall Cresta PB (Lucas L734) Speak to HQ and see if you can get a copy of that Courier (I assume you are a fairly new member) <end edit>. <edit again> looks like it should read Lucas 711: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-L711-REAR-LENS-SET-VAUXHALL-PB-CRESTA-/281855723803 <end edit> C.

Am I missing something, or is this not at the end of exhaust stroke and beginning of intake stroke ? C ?

The estates are a little like hen's teeth. They mostly lived a hard life and suffered for it. They do come up from time to time so keep your eyes peeled. C.

Frankly, I wouldn't bother too much and unless it is way out it will have little effect, but: 1. Adding 2 shims front and back on the offside will bring that to -2.9 and both will be the same, and as close as you can get to the 3 deg you are looking after. OR 2. Removing 1 shim front and back on the nearside and adding 1 shim front and back from the offside should give you -2.4 degrees both sides. OR 3. If you want less, removing 2 shims front and back (assuming they are there) from the nearside will give you an even -1.9 both sides. This assumes OE shims and may not apply to the stainless ones available. The calculations are theoretical and results would be approximate, but near enough. If you don't add front and back, then you will also affect the camber. It is worthwhile getting a full alignment check at a specialist garage, but sadly they don't seem to have the nouce to make corrections. They will normally recheck if you make the adjustments. Jigsaw have the equipment and the knowledge. If you have the Club's CD of Couriers then see the series of articles " Suspect Suspensions Sussed" by Carl Heinlen in Couriers 158 (Aug 93), 159 (Sep 93) and 160 (Oct 93). C.

You may not be aware that the ignition key has an Aux position [position 1]. This allows the radio on when ignition is off, and it also diconnects the radio when starter is used, so you don't get nasty current spikes in your electronics. C.