Casper

158 - August 1993.pdf (tssc.org.uk) p 27 159 - September 1993.pdf (tssc.org.uk) p. 78 159 - September 1993.pdf (tssc.org.uk) p.62 162 - December 1993.pdf (tssc.org.uk) p. 14

if you know where you are this would allow you to get a suitable setup C. Alignment_3_5_04.xls

Any wide slot 3 1/2" HD wheels ? And welcome. The guys like pics of cars! C.

Brake disc. Replace 1.00 hrs Upper wishbone arms and/or bushes. Replace 1.30 hrs Bottom trunnion bushes. Replace 0.80 hrs C.

ST's repair schedule gives 1 hour per side for "Road spring or damper, Replace". And they don't normally quote a quick time. C.

At a price: Google up "Integral Master Cylinder Extension Reservoir" or Classic Mini Clutch Master Cylinder Extension Tube BHA4661 resevoir sleeve brake | eBay C.

Don't miss the Spade mill ! (but then I am a tool anorak), Patterson's Spade Mill | National Trust C.

Plus 1 for Ireland, North and South. Some main roads are brilliant. But after I returned from a 3 week tour with loads of NVH I was able to tighten all the body mounting bolts by about half a turn. Ground clearance not generally an issue except the occasional hump-back bridge. C.

I guess you are aware that the steering wheel position is adjustable. Plenty of threads on the board. C.

This is often in part due to worn column bushes. give the wheel a left right wiggle to test it C.

Micro-abrasives become embedded in the softer metal, creating an abrasive shaft. C.

BOOT GAS RAM SPIT 1-111 -190N | The Triumph Sports Six Club (tssc.org.uk)

Ribbed matting available from Woolies C.

Comprehensive discussions at https://forum.tssc.org.uk/topic/6371-vitesse-seats/ C,

I have had occasions when rainwater has leaked through the boot hinge fixings (due to dodgy gaskets). c.

Well done. Now enjoy ! C.

Don't wish to add to your woes but the brake shoe without the handbrake is upside down C

Variation on a theme. JK method was on the earlier post: on 26th July on 26th July

Loads of backlash in my diff. You can sometimes notice it when using neutral throttle as it lurches as bit. But not a problem. C.

It's very difficult to test for movement as the driveshaft and UJ are under tension because they are part of the suspension (they act as part of a lower wishbone, the spring being the upper). That's why the noise is louder on trailing/neutral throttle as the tension is released or eased. Sorry, but I think they have to come off. This is all part of the joys and tribulations of Herald ownership. If you are new to Heralds I would set aside perhaps 2 days. The Repair Time Schedule gives 3 hours per side (but then they were charging customers and most items can be done much quicker). Add to that the time spent making sure the rear brakes are in fine fettle while you are at it. Don't be despondent. Keep asking. We are all with you! It will be worth it. C.

That's pretty much it. Difficult part is removing the circlips. There are vaiations. The first bit doesn't need the vice and it is best to use a wooden or copper faced hammer. From a guru on a previous message board: UJ Removal – The JK patented method The patented JK UJ removal method is the best thing since sliced bread: Remove all circlips - if right handed hold the halfshaft in your left hand around the mid point, and hit the outside of the separate flange (copper hammer is best) so the downward pointing UJ cup is knocked out; Turn the shaft through 180 degrees and again hit the outside edge of the flange to knock the other cup out (or at least they come out far enough to grab them in a vice). After removing said flange this leaves two exposed sticky out bits of the UJ, these can be rested across vice jaws and the copper hammer can then be aimed at the yoke on the halfshaft so the upward pointing cup pops upwards, turn through 180 and a couple of taps with the hammer and the last cup pops up and the UJ is out. With a bit of practice virtually any UJ can be removed in under a minute (once all the clips are out). If a clip breaks or is very tight it is far easier to get at it by pushing the cup in very slightly once the opposing cup has been taken out. John Kipping 24/6/03 Old rusty UJs certainly need some whacking to get them out - if in doubt use a bigger hammer. John Kipping 26/6/03 . . . and then you have to pick up all the roller bearings from everywhere. C.

More noticeable on the overrun, and/or when taking bends. Sounds just like worn UJs rather than end-float (which gives clicking). If worse on left hand bends, then it's the left UJ and vice versa. C.

Dissimilar metals and moisture = corrosion. I think I lacquered both the MC and the steel cap, but grease might hold it back for a while. C.

That's a possibility but doesn't that assume the screw thread provides a fluid seal?

I have, in the past, had trouble finding seals (also serious rust on the metal and damaged plastic cap) which is why I made a mental note of the DT advert. I fortunately picked up a NOS item for a decent price so I am sorted. No doubt a suitable O-ring would serve. I will have a look in the workshop as I may have something squirrelled away. C.