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Clive

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Clive last won the day on January 12 2023

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  1. Looks right to me, but lighting and monitors can make a huge difference. Yes, the gaps on the black one are a bit out now I have zoomed in. Would need a good look to see how easy it woukd be to adjust, or if a fundamental issue.
  2. I am keen on 13" wheels, although 14" is a bit easier. The original size feels stupidly large. Now, steering weight. As others have pointed out, tyre pressure needs to be checked, and indeed varied but remember grip is far more important than steering weight. Lastly, most people have forgotten that you need to be moving when turning the steering wheel. Todays power steering is there because of crazy caster angles needed for split brakes. But a side effect is that it feels ok to turn the wheel when stationary. But for cars without PAS that is a big no-no. I would look at a decent leather wheel, motalita, momo etc. Avoid any unknown brands, even mountney are not what they were having heard of more than one breakage.
  3. One on car and classic, recently restored. Black paintwork. If it really is good the 16K pricetag is not stupid. An unrestored one in similar condition would be worth more. The very best ones out there would be well into the 20s IF they ever appear for sale.
  4. If the joints are good, I would replace the boots. Reasoning is simple. The replacement boots are usually OK. The boots fitted to new joints are rubbish and fail in a short time. If you really want new joints, change the boots before fitting. Sigh.
  5. Clive

    Cheap car radio

    Thanks for the replies. The car will et used regularly, so that isn't an issue. Poor bluetooth is a concern. I may just fit the radio/CD player from the old car, and get one of those bluetooth transmitters which my daughter reckons are very good. Incidently, they are still available for under £15. Amusingly one of the traders had a show special at Stoneleigh. £50. Worth a punt though for them. Years ago, speedy spares had some lovely looking individual speakers, Very 1960s style, chrome grille etc. I bought a boxful at £2 each, sold at leatherhead for a fiver a pop. Thats when £3 easily bought a pint. Happy days.
  6. Clive

    Cheap car radio

    Any reviews on these? I see they have connections so I can use a power amp if they are a bit quiet. What I want to know is does teh radio actually work OK, bluetooth connect and how do you access music on a SD card? (as in is it random, in order or is there a menu)
  7. No, earlier cars had the seat belt fitting on teh B post, later cars on the rear arch (stronger I expect) A solution is a loop attached to via teh headrest fixings, a local did it with a length of leather belt, though versions are sold on the bay of fleas. I would make them, using both headrest supports so they don't flop about.
  8. I would suggest there is a problem nowdays, in that the original stuff is getting worn, and parts to repair are often poor quality. As to teh repro stuff being lobbed out of factories, it is often appauling. And now, the high torque stuff sold to thee classic car market is cheap copies of the denso originals. Gi=uess what will be happening? Or maybe not as people don't use their cars as much. But I would rather a used denso unit over a new copy or rebuild one.
  9. Possible. Only real way to tell is to substitute a known good coil, which is where borring one off a friends car is helpful. I have done that by simply cable tying it in place for the test (ie when the other one is suspected of failing, just swap the connections over) As a thought, you do have a 12V non ballasted coil, 3ohms resistance? Other potential failures are rotor arms if less that about 12 years old, and indeed points, condensors and caps of a similar age. Really it is a matter of elimination.
  10. A smear of blue hylomar is your best bet. Or wellseal, but that is tricker stuff to use. Not a silicon type of sealant, too thick.
  11. How many amps does the dynamo produce? thought they were about 24A? Each headlight bulb will draw a smidge under 5A, so 20A on full beam. Not much left if a heater is on, but should still be OK as main beam is rarely on more than 50% of even a night drive. Plenty have done the RBRR in the last 56 years on dynamos (less so now, most are converted)
  12. I tend to swap teh seats side to side, so the bolster wear is less of an issue. It does mean the adjusters are on teh inside, but that is no biggy. On my Dolomite, I welded plates to the edges of the runners (3mm flat bar, 50mm wide) so I coukld put the setas in my preferred position without extra floor holes. When I tackle the MX5 seats it may require a slightly different approach, but not sure until I try. Also hampered by the fact one daughter is only 5' tall, so height may need tweaking.
  13. The lower column is decent steel, so if you don't like teh appearance, pop it out, a quick rub down and repaint.It will outlast any repro part (if they are even made) The solid UJs are a lottery. I have had brand new ones that had excessive play at first use. The best I have found is the cast T2000 joint from Chris Witor, but I have also used the superpro polybush kit.
  14. Dublin may be different. UK they seem to get £200 +/_ depending on condition. Plain black will be a very popular choice. Ebay is the way to value such stuff
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