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clive last won the day on March 12

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4th Dan Triumphero

4th Dan Triumphero (10/13)



  1. No. PCD is 3 3/4" or 95.25mm
  2. clive


    I am not keen on the midges. Never met your inlaws.... Funny how so many of us have had caravans in our life. I remember visiting relatives every year in North Wales, top of some huge mountain (probably nota mountain, but steep roads) in a morris oxford towing a caravan. People would come out of their houses to see if we made it up. The car that followed, a Wolsey 18/85 was much better. Must have been very early 70's. Scotland, away from the massively busy areas (maybe unique to the current year) is gorgeous place to drive. And this year even the camper vans seem to be well behaved when they notice a car coming up behind them. Smidge spray is essential stuff though.
  3. clive


    Pete, we have been to scotland twice in the last 3 weeks, first time up past Ullapool, 2nd time just across the border. Both trips start and finish in Brighton, 3k miles or so done. Car was great apart from (1) the crank spigot bearing failed on trip 1, but very intermittent so got us home, just required a quick box out/in. And (2) used just shy of 1/2L of oil. Drivers got a tad pink on the first trip, less so the 2nd. Go on, you can drive lands end to JOG in under 24 hours in a triumph. (that is a bit hardcore, but 150 Triumphs do it every other year as part of the RBRR) But throw in a couple of overnight stops, and you get a great roadtrip. We visited Telford area TSSC meet, went to liverpool, lancaster, brampton and lincoln as part of the trip. All part of my masterplan to do as many miles as possible while we and the car still can.
  4. 10ml? Tiny amount, usually a couple of squirts out of my oilcan.
  5. Odd you can't get it rich enough at idle, but I am no expert on Stromberg models. CDSE sounds like off a late car, so maybe restrictive? You may have more luck with early type carbs that allowed a wider range of adjustment. std GT6 needles will be the wrong profile for a 2.5. However, 1 1/2" carbs are on the small side for a 2.5, but should only be restrictive at higher RPM (4-5k??) The usual "fix" is a pair of short dashpot HS6 carbs off a sprint, the needles are about right too. Inlet manifold needs opening out to suit, and the carb mounting holes made oval to fit on the existing studs (or use less-than-ideal adaptors)
  6. I have now heard from Angie, We can stay Sunday, but need to scurry off early Monday. Will need to pay for the extra night. A few of us will have "the discussion" nearer the time when we get a vaguely reliable weather forecast.
  7. Simple question, but I cant find an answer. Can we camp Sunday night? Anybody able to confirm? Ta
  8. Yes, big bits you should worry about, but fine stuff is normal, especially as they never usually get drained. Just refill with gl4 oil and all should be OK. Assuming nothing untoward before the oil change.
  9. I fitted trunnionless 7 years ago when I built my car. The difference in cost between std and trunnionless was negligable. And I wanted new. No doubt std would last well, but I appreciated the extra strength. As to geometry, my car was set up when completed. And works brilliantly on trackdays and the road. However, we own a 2nd spit with identical 480lb springs at had front but std trunnion, and it is harder. So trunnionless softens the effect of the springs and shocks. The biggest issue is uprights are often 50+ years old, with 30 or more years of neglect. So need very careful inspection.
  10. Yes, dropping a 1500 in is simple. Clutch just a plate change or drill the 1300 flywheel. But to make a 1500 work with the 13/60 head is a faff, possibly worthwhile. However, gearing really is an issue. As I said, either overdrive, or diff, or best both. Simple answer is a rebore and some new shells on the current engine.
  11. It does get a little more complex. With a 1500, you need to alter the gearing. Either change diff to 3.63, or better is keep the 4.1 diff and overdrive. MAkes teh car VERY perky and torquey. No overdrive and a 4.1 diff will be miserable on teh motorway, the 1500 is not a happy revver. I have had 1500's in heralds and indeed my Toledo, all with overdrive and 4.1 diff. Suited autosolos etc, but for most people I think a 3.89 diff with overdrive would be the best allround combination. As to head on the 1500, IF you use the 13/60 head (8.5CR) on a 1500, you will get a CR of 9.8. Use a hotter cam, a 4 branch manifold and you should be getting towards 100bhp. Of course, you really want the larger 1500 sized valves in the herald head to get all that power. But suddenly it is not quite so simple, and the initial outlay for an unknown engine becomes insignificant.
  12. Does he have a brake balance machine? I have not seen one outside an MoT test centre. But an MoT tester has a legal requirement, and a test "certificate" is universally accepted as evidence the car was correctly checked in all the safety critical areas. A specialist will have other skills, many will overlap.
  13. No, after all it just means they have your money until the refund is processed. However, I question the wisdom of returning a car to the road without getting an MoT done. It would be rather reassuring that everything, including brake balance, is as it should be.
  14. That damage is not an issue. In all teh cars I have owned, many have had either similar damage or the attachment bolts missing. As to performance, John Thomason (who was the most excellent late spitfire Registrar for the club for many years) raced a standard 1500 car in a multimarque series, which he won, beating alfas and all sorts. He used teh car as everyday transport to, doing many many thousands of miles and driving to/from the racetracks. To hopefully save fuel, he saved teh twin HS4 carbs for the racing, but fitted a single HS4 carb/manifold for the everyday driving. Both set up on a rolling road. His results were a bit surprising. The twin carbs gave a little more power, only a few bhp. And te single carb was a little more economical, but a coupe of mpg. 2nd bit of evidence is that John Kipping spent ages trying carb combinations. He settled on a single 1 3/4" carb on 1500 engines over twin 1 1/2" as being best. All that suggests that a single larger carb may not be as good looking, but is probably at least as good as slightly smaller twin carbs. And the single is easier to maintain/set up. A slightly richer needle may be required for the fuelling, and in your case the correct distributer advance curve to match the cam and head/CR. Also it is worth checking the condition of the carb spindles. If the bodies are worn, that is an expensive/difficult fix. And the type of HS2 carbs you have are far more likely to have worn bodies as they use the earlier return springs that pull the spindle against the body (later type uses a concentric spring around the shafts that greatly reduces the wear) Just my 2p.
  15. If you don't like the look of the £37 seller, how about demon tweaks at £42? Plenty of big retailers sell via ebay at better prices than their own websites etc. Ah, Paul beat me to it! Colin, as you know, sellers put daft prices on out of stock stuff to keep the listing live, it must be cheaper than re-listing.
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