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clive last won the day on October 3

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4th Dan Triumphero

4th Dan Triumphero (10/13)



  1. I painted my red toledo with cheap 2k "post office"red as it was already painted a non Triumph red, plus it was £50 for 5l. Used about 3-4l. It took about 3 years to start to fade when left permanently outside, no cover. A session with g3 brought it back, 2 years later it has faded again. Been washed a couple of times though. No more. Clear over base does appeal. Over a good 2k primer of course. Got to think about the dolly. Was brooklands green, but has darkened to a nicer shade. It will need acomplete paint job at some point, but want to just patch it up over the winter, gain trust, then spray it next summer. Or the summer after....
  2. clive

    Engine mounts

    ReD up /YouTube the process. I remember rarebit Bill mentioning the difficulties of making py stuff reliably. Vacuum was needed from memory...
  3. clive

    Herald Estate

    Fitchetts have pretty decent repro overriders. Good used are hens teeth. New originals ultra rare... Try chic doig for side rubbers iffitchetts can't help. Or seek guidance from "rarebits Bill"
  4. clive

    Noise camera's

    Is exhaust noise part of the mot now? Mine gets checked at teackdays, usually 4500rpm and is usually 90ish at 1/2m distance. So how hard are these devices from getting car? IVA limits are higher than 74db. 99db rings a bell. But again I think that is at 1/2m. Noise levels drp dramatically with distance, cubed relationship. Ie double distance, level drops to 1/8th
  5. But the risk to uni aged students is almost zero (apart from a very few who have other conditions, but that doesn't enter the brain ofmost hormone-led students) And with one jab, they will think they are indestructible. Honestly, I was working in a lot of student houses last year. They were taking no precautions at all. Before anybody was vaccinated. I reckoned I was fairly safe as I had it in march 2020.
  6. clive

    Engine mounts

    I bought some new mounts about 25 years ago, fitted them and wondered what was wrong, tgx car felt horrendous with vibrations going through the whole car. Refitted the old ones, all was OK. Back then j managed to find some proper NOS ones, that lasted the life of the car. I think witor could make poly versions, but would be reluctant as most small chassis owners are more interested in price than quality. I know there are some who would pay but sadly the numbers don't often add up for a supplier. Unless somebody can get enough orders/deposits in to make it look viable. Anyway, my solution has been to use jag e type engine mounts. Oem and still available at about 3x the cost if cheap alternatives. But they last well. Wouldn't be an easy solution on most small chassis cars though.
  7. clive

    Spitfire Lay Up

    I would put a squirt of engine oil down each bore and turn tvfvrnginevover periodically, best to pop the plugs out so it is easy. Fuel, there are some stabilisers out there no experience but probably wise. Millers do one. My main worry is he carbs and gunge. And i see Pete has also replied... yes, antifreeze a good idea. As is turning her water pump as gbet do mot like being inactive
  8. There are a few (very) reasonably priced people doing welding/painting, usually to a pretty decent std (though not top end, that DOES cost an arm/leg, probably a kidney too) One such is Andy Dann of Classicresprays. Saw a friends Herald Coupe he did. It was a mess before, arches etc all rusted away, gaffa tape abounded for the MoT, flappy doors and so on. He repaired it all and did a decent respray. Not sure of the actual cost, but suspect 2 1/2-3k. If you go down the DIY route, Tall axle stands (just got a set of 600mm ones) needed to do sills in comfort. You don't need a powerful welder for sills and bodywork. I restored 2 cars with a 90A welder, including outriggers on my vitesse. It was fine, but needed cooling down time regularly. a 100-130A will be fine, Clarke are good value, especially used . But I do like my Oxford, makes life rather easier. Compressor, my 3hp 50L tank one has sprayed several cars no problems at all. 100L tank would be better, but larger, and not so easy to find used (recommend belt drive, easier to live with in terms of noise.
  9. No, as the prop locates with a ring into a recess on the gearbox/diff flange. If that is missing the centralising will rely on the bolt holes, which is not accurate enough. That will probably cause serious vibrations. It would need to be machined with a step to make sure it centralised correctly. Sorry to hear that. But if the car works, it works. Don't worry if there is the an oddball setail somewhere.
  10. clive


    usual stuff. Probably 155/80 13 tyres if std sized wheels. My favorite brands, Toyo are cheap enough and perform well. Better, especially in the wet, Falken and Uniroyal. But Dunlop, Goodyear etc are all good. Avoid the budget stuff, not worth the saving.
  11. Pete reckons he must have a few. He has taken many gearboxes apart, and reckons the laygears are nearly always OK (unless the whole box has had terminal damage) He is checking his actual stock, (a couple of crates of gears and stuff in his garage) I will drop you a message as I am away from tomorrow...
  12. clive


    Just looked on fleabay. The 1/2 impact wrench was £60 (I think) with battery and charger. Plenty have been selling for £100ish. Should have bought a few!
  13. clive


    Colin, are you sure it isn't an impact driver? with 1/4" "drive" to take screwdriver bits? They are handy as small and light, I sometimes use one in te garage with a set of socket drive adapters. Great for doing up nut etc and then final torquing by hand. I have a lidle 1/2 drive impact wrench. Think it was £60 with a 4ah battery and charger. That does wheel nuts up to torque with 2 dugga duggas. Undoes very tight ones OK too. (I have m12 studs/nuts, and do wheels up in excess of std torque for trackdays etc, scary when you see people with lost wheelnuts) However, it is a bit bulky. After I boght te torque wrench, the following week they had a battery cicular saw and multi-tool in, 30 and 20 respectively but bare units. Bought both, lus extra 2ah batteries. They have done a moderate amount of work. The saw is great for floorboards but struggles on thicker stuff. However, it cuts 40mm worktop OK, guess that is less dense chipboard. But excellent value. I am tempted to get a std battery drill, as daughter and SIL have pilfered my garage battery drill.... For somebody who earns part of their living doing maintenance work (mainly in student houses) teh tools are ideal. I don't worry about badge snobbery. I have found lidl and aldi drill bits to be great, but some hand tools are only OK. Mrs Clive rather likes the Lidl ice creams, reckons they are better than the Walls proper versions..... The pink gin stuff seems to be popular too.
  14. Maybe cut teh hose, and use a connector. That will give the extra length. Beware new rubber top hoses, I have heard of 3 (in teh last 7 days) that have split within the first few hours of use. Obviously a very bad batch is in the trade.... There is always teh silicone option, but I doubt you will find one that will do exactly what you want, but will be a pair plus a joiner.
  15. I have a couple of Teng hammer through screwdrivers. The slotted one is showing its 25 year age a bit (rather abused) but reckon a tough with teh bench grinder will see it sorted again. No idea on price, but think they are very good.
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