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clive

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Everything posted by clive

  1. some of the best stuff comes from just up the road from me in Sussex.....
  2. Just run it in gear?
  3. I expect some bureaucrats are getting fat and sipping champagne having sorted that change. Or lawyers.
  4. Colin, I don't see an issue unless you go into the EU (though Southern Ireland should be OK?) But if you decide to take a car to (eg) Le Mans, cover the GB and pop a UK sticker on. All this is a consequence of Brexit..... (From what I can make out, the term identifier is the small number plate sticker)
  5. I think (but check) it is for when you go outside of the UK. Which is a very good thing to do with your Triumphs🙂
  6. No point, they are only legit for another 8 days. Bin it and buy a UK one. From https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-symbols-and-identifiers On or after 28 September 2021 You will need to display a UK sticker clearly on the rear of your vehicle if your number plate has any of the following: a GB identifier with the Union flag (also known as the Union Jack) a Euro symbol a national flag of England, Scotland or Wales numbers and letters only - no flag or identifier If your number plate includes the UK identifier with the Union flag (also known as the Union Jack), you do not need a UK sticker. If you’re in Spain, Cyprus or Malta, you must display a UK sticker no matter what is on your number plate. If you have a GB sticker, cover or remove it.
  7. I have noticed the (slightly wider, same height and depth) 075 is now the "cheap" size. I think it replaced the 063 as the most common size. And it certainly fits in a spitfire battery box. Just. Downside is the extra weight. However, looking in the mirror gives me a clue how to lose 10+kg off the cars total weight. Probably a better place to start.
  8. The quaife you use overcome much of the 3.27 weakness. ie the carrier. But the quaife is not a direct fit, the 3.27 is a slightly oddball size compared to the rest of the diffs.
  9. I broke a few 3.27 diffs with my 2.5 vitesse. Fitted a 3.63 and it survived for many years. Then did service in my 155bhp zetec spitfire, and now lives an a mk3 spit in Belgium. When I sold it I had it stripped and checked over, nothing required except new seals as a precaution. My vitesse had a saloon box with a low first gear, te vitesse box has a longer first so is less likely to break it. In fact the box is probably the weakest part of the transmission.
  10. clive

    Oil

    Heard good things about it, but it now looks expensive compared to some similar quality oils (the heritage stuff, comma etc) Friend rebuilds gearboxes, and he got 2x10L gear oil tubs. Tested it in his spitfire with a gearbox and diff oil change, reckons the box changes better and overdrive comes in faster. Very pleased, about £40 for the 20L. (80/90 GL4 spec) 20/50 was the later spec of oil for our cars, earlier onew straight 30, an indeed other viscosities for various ambient temps. A 10/60 would be better in many respects, and may have been specified if it was being made at the time. But for general use, 20/50 works well. As to synthetics, there is no reason not to use them, unless the engine is sludgy inside. Synthetics are superior in just about every way. Except price. To downside is they can be too good, and break up sludge sending around the engine.
  11. They honestly don't go wrong (often) Ours is 20 years old, but low miles etc an dfull history, and importantly unmolested. I needs a rear caliper as one is just starting to weep, the discs could do with replav=cing too. Down to the low usage I reckon. But mechanically bombproof. But a scrappie will know the cat value.... Now, I could do with a good rear bumper. A minor reversing incident damaged it. The bonnet has a small but deep dent too (roof tile when the car was 4 years old apparently) but that is it. Seats are definitely comfy.
  12. Will clash with my Wifes MX5 (dark metallic blue). Besides a gentleman (or lady) should only ever use black dustcaps, whatever the car colour. Talking of MX5s, heard yesterday the going rate for a legit MX5 mk2 catalytic converter is around £750 scrap. Explains why so many get stolen. And why MX5s are worth a few quid whatever the condition. But check for the cat, I fitted a copy one that was £45. Doubt it does much, but passed the MoT OK.
  13. It is possible to get them flat. You need a good straight edge (back of a wood/panel saw is a good choice) a file and patience. Also a good quality gasket, Payen would be my choice. The tubular manifolds will aid power on a well set up engine. How much? Not a lot.... but it all helps.
  14. Worse, R6 is not suitable for any e5, e10 etc. So yes, buy some proper, branded R9 hose. Not from ebay, but club shop or proper retailer.
  15. How about a kenlowe "hotstart"?? most are copies now) Basically a small electric water heater fitted to the cars coolant system, and plugged in so you turn it on 30mins before you want to drive off. Engine all preheated for you. Just don't forget to unplug. Plenty of Russian ones about..
  16. But burning gas will produce moisture, which is not desirable. Wood burner could work well, usually draws cold air from the room(garage) and if well designed won't let soot/smoke into the area. But they are a lot of faff. I just use 2x2kw heaters, approx 70p per hour, or a fiver for a day. But nice and easy. How do you now get the car in?
  17. clive

    Driving about.

    Today did a jaunt in teh Spit to see a friend, bit tedious as mainly motorway (A/M23, M25, M26) but 120 mile round trip. Say a TR4a (or 5?) sitting on the M25 as we overtook. And plan to take the spit to Goodwood for the Revival for the 3 days. Booked into the "Tax Exempt Show" aka carpark. Nice and close to the entrance.... Suspect we will see many many old bangers there. And some lovely motors being thrashed on the track🙂
  18. Indeed, some have been made with just a roll pin, which is totally unsuitable and will very likely break at some point. Are you sure it isn't UJ endfloat? It only takes a tiny bit, but tends to be more of a ticking than clonk. Then again, worn UJs are difficult to diagnose as they are under huge tension from the spring.
  19. Would we? If the load area carpet has been changed, the back of the car may have got sunlight to it? Buy a garage window? Who knows. But the rest of the carpets are certainly NOT newton ones...
  20. If the gauge is correctly calibrated, that is a bit low for the fan to come in at. Really 2/4 is more realistic. Sounds like "temperature paranoia" by the previous owner! ie if a 82 degree thermostat is fitted, you don't want teh fan OFF temp lower than about 85 minimum, which will usually be about 92 on. 95 on is probably better as you have the std fan fitted as well. I suspect the fan switch is just incorrectly set.
  21. I don't think the other carpets have been changed, certainly the tunnel and footwell carpets appear original. The only way to be sure of the original colour of those arches is to find a bit that is covered. I would put money on black... (the load area carpet may have been changed/replaced, it looks a different type of carpet)
  22. I had a loom fire start as I was off to fuel up for Spa 2 years ago. Never did find the actual cause. After that, I bought a VW fusebox, and put a main link fuse (100A) to feed my normal (8 way) fusebox, and fused the alternator to 60A, having had a Lucas Re-con, emphasis on the con, alternator internally short with wife and 2 small kids in our herald. That was worrying, and why I won't use ACR alternators as they have all been reconditioned by now, or are built with the same rubbish parts. Fuses are your friend! EDIT the best bit about the spit loom fire was I pulled over, and quickly got the battery disconnected so only the loom melted. When I called breakdown, teh lady asked me if my hazards were on. me "No". her "but you must!". me "but the battery is disconnected" her "then re connect it" me "but the car will catch fire and burn if I do" her "err...... why" me "because the reason I broke down is teh wiring loom has burnt, disconnecting the battery has stopped further damage" She didn't mention it again... but a nice chap from the AA appeared soon after, towed me home and we had a chat about his Mini etc. And I took my Toledo to Spa.
  23. Wheraboutso n teh temp gauge does the radiator kick in? should be approx 3/4. But really, don't assume anything is actually wrong with teh rad until it is proved. The other problem can be the gauges and/or senders are often "out" and giving false high readings which can cause panic. (never hear of gauges under reading, probably as owners are just happy with them) What type of temperature switch does the fan use? and is it top or bottom hose? These are important questions, along with the actual temp it is coming on at.
  24. condition and history suggests 20K is genuine.
  25. There is no way the fan should be coming on when driving at speed. At 60mph the fan will be doing nothing, except indicating that the temperature has risen . You really need to check the exact cut-in temperature. It is either way too low, or the radiator needs a recore. OR do as Andy Cook discovered, ditch the electric fan altogether and just use the std crank driven one.
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