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clive

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Everything posted by clive

  1. I had that on both spitfires that have used modern ECUs to run. The backfeed from the alternator has to have a diode fitted, as there is just enough voltage to run the ecu. When I first fitted it, the solution was to press the brake pedal, the lights were enough to kill the voltage. I imagine any fan could do the same. But with the alternator issue the car will just run until the fuel is all gone.
  2. Give me a shout if you are interested. The spare one I have is the later twisty lever type. All works fine, just stored in my loft. It would be handy if you could use the later mkIV frame, it is a much nicer folding action.
  3. Not much in there. And the catch can will get a combination of water vapour, plus oil fumes/droplets. The perfect combination to make mayo. Usually you get more water. But to help it condense, you could stuff a stainless steel scourer in there. In all honesty, I think that once the oil thermostat is fitted, and the car has had a few good runs out, got nice and hot, all will be well. I have not got a lot of faith in compression testers for HGF, unless it is s catastrophic failure. They do show if an engine is worn though. On another topic, did the previous owner pass on the specification of the engine? Cam, headwork etc? I would expect some changes from a std specification to warrant fitting the webers. If the engine has been worked, it could be a VERY rapid car, I was at Castle Combe where an ex-works 2.5 on webers (factory rally dept fitted them, they are original to that car) made an appearance. It was very quick, I would have a punt at 180ish bhp. Though in the GT6 that would make it very easy to munch a few diffs and gearboxes.
  4. All the same. Except the radius arms and shocks. And spring.
  5. I don't think so. In fact the GT6 setup is almost rocking horse poo these days, so you may have to either pay a silly amount of cash, or wait until a set turns up at a reasonable price. The GT6 has a quarterlight, plus te glass has a curve to it. Spitfire is one piece and flat.
  6. Just connect the gauge to the rocker box outlet to measure the pressure. But I am pretty certain the mayo is definitely down to overcooled oil, and a decent sized breather would solve any issues there. This isn't an engine that will rev to 7k (I presume, but some top end 2.5's can rev pretty high) so if in good condition it shouldn't have a high crankcase pressure
  7. Just check that you can freely get full lock in both directions. Racks tend to wear in the middle where they spend most of their time, much less at the ends, so if nice and"tight" in teh middle often too tight at the ends. You know what I mean........
  8. Mocal make an inline oil thermostat. They are a proper manufacturer, buy with confidence. like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401376608743?hash=item5d73e901e7:g:cj4AAOSwCXBdzBku White for a chassis (and other structural steel) make seeing cracks easy, so te builder may have decided it was a good idea, making inspections easy.
  9. Welcome. Good choice of car, I know of an almost identical one, same Royal blue with Revs fitted. And good to see somebody else who plans to do some trackdays. Sadly the TSSC does not get involved with trackdays/motorsport, but other Triumph clubs do (mainly the TR Register, and they invite CT to attend) I have done a dozen or so over the last few years, including Goodwood, Castle Combe, Donnington, Blyton, Brands Hatch and Silverstone. Drop me a message if you wish to know more. Back to your mayo issue. These engines can breathe and it looks like your catch tank vents to the atmosphere, somewhere down by the chassis. That may not be enough, especially with the 1/2 internal breather pipe . I have seen 6 cylinder racers using 32mm (same as GT6 rad hose) for a breather to atmosphere. That is a little extreme, but speaking to the chap it is what worked after trying smaller. The other way is to feed the breather into the inlet manifolds via a PCV valve which will help suck fumes from the engine breather and hopefully keep the engine from getting positive crankcase pressure (which will help stop the engine leaking oil) I have a halfway system, feeding my breathers into a catchtank, and from there into my airfilter so any fumes don't get into the car, and it helps with a little vacuum. As to the cause of the mayo, your main question, it could just be the oil has not got hot enough for long enough to evaporate any moisture. I see you have an oil cooler fitted (I can see the pipework) but I can't see an oil thermostat. A thermostat is ESSENTIAL as it allows the oil to operate at the correct temp. No thermostat, the oil will stay far too cold, and that could be causing your issue. BTW I am just along the coast in Hove, not far at all.
  10. Pretty certain the header rail is a different shape, plus the door windows are different. Never seen the later hoodframe fitted either, which I would have expected to see if it would work. I have a mk3 hood frame available if you need one....somewhere in my loft.
  11. Interesting.... The power won't be a problem, 175 tyres will be plenty. My spit is approx 180bhp and I have run 175's no issues. Well, I can spin them up if I try, but not an issue. The chassis will be fine if after approx 1962 (the mk1 chassis is weak and prone to issues). I have previously run a 2.5 vitesse, sam chassis but massive torque and that was fine. Thinking about the rear, and not knowing the torque characteristics of the bike engine, but a later diff (late herald with big quarter shafts, or vitesse/GT6 /late spitfire) should cope if the power is 100-130bhp. Helps keep the IVA at bay too....
  12. What sort of power/torque are you thinking of. The herald rear suspension (or at least the diff on a 1200) is pretty weak....
  13. Welcome. Bad news for you if you want the car to drive well, Heralds (and most of the other small chassis cars) do not respond well to wide tyre, or in particular low profiles. Backspace rather than backplate? (spellcheck?) a wider wheel will need to have a larger backspace so it doesn't rub the outer arches. The ones that will dffo fit will be dunlop lp923 (same look as std herald , but 5.5j) or even the new 5.5 hubcap wheels. Some formula ford vary in offset, so care is indeed needed. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143802454325?hash=item217b4b5135:g:4ewAAOSwANZgpTnb
  14. Ah, Ah, don't blame the wife then! Yes, work to live, but never the other way round. This past few months I have been dragging myself to do some work that I am not liking. I keep find excuses to go and do other stuff. Luckily I am in the middle of some other work that I quite like (and pays well, bonus) but sadly the grim work is still hanging over me. Guess I should bite the bullet, get it done and move on.....
  15. clive

    Flat EV

    My friend is a retired Forklift engineer. With electric forklifts they have such a mechanism, the truck stops, and then you can activate the reserve. Trouble is the drivers will keep hitting the reserve until it simply won't move. Then go home from their shift and it is somebody elses problem... The break glass idea is better, maybe as the 2nd reserve. But with teh tech in the cars, surely knocking the speed progressively down as zero approaches is a system to push people to recharge. However, all this will sort itself out, but the changeover period will be the tricky part
  16. Amen to that. Work just gets in the way of life. I still do some work, but ONLY so I can actually live and support my Triumph habit.
  17. I have found six cylinders to be less "offensive" in terms of noise with the same exhaust. The note is always smoother, less bark. I ended up making my own system, it has 5' of exhaust box in it, all straight through 2 1/4" bore. When tested at Castle Combe it was 85db at 4000rpm, well within the limit of 98. The twin wheelbarrow system I had on there initially just about scraped through the test at 98.... and I got pulled in and asked to reduce the sound (I had a couple of db killers that got it down a bit)
  18. Brand new copy stuff can be variable in quality/life expectancy. Some last well, others fail from new. These days I prefer to fit a new one that is branded. Had excellent experiences with the little Denso 40A alternators. Small, light, but about £100 now (or £200 from Brise motorsport)
  19. PI bodies are big. In theory far too big for a 2L. However, having seen a MK1 2000 on them they do work. Nick on here has a VERY well sorted EFI setup on his vitesse, plenium, decent cam etc. That car goes rather well, he may be along, or find him on te sideways forum where you are likely to find more EFI Triumphs. (I cheated, fitted a ford engine, but GSXR throttle bodies so understand the issues involved)
  20. The GT6 needs a special stepped manifold to clear the bonnet. My old TriumphTune manual suggests the stepped manifold IS required on a vitesse. So unless you get specific info, tread carefully. (setup is no issue, I have a pair of dellorto DHLA on a spit 1300, drives beautifully and economical on a longer run when driven with a light foot)
  21. Have you checked their location (no indication anywhere)? Or even their contact email (an msn address)? Tread carefully...
  22. I am now a bit confused. The fitting into the gearbox is different between single rail, 3 rail and big saloon/sprint/TR gearboxes. The thread between OD and non od for attaching the gearknob is different. When you say covers teh same, do you mean gearbox tunnel? column cowls? or something else?
  23. Will the adjuster be long enough? Guess there is one way to find out!
  24. The dolly one is probably single rail? And your herald 3 rail? in which case no dice. OD gearsticks tend to fetch very good money now. I sold a few last year that I had in the garage for donkeys years.
  25. No, cables run down the outside of teh gearstick. Bit of heatshrink works a treat. The switch is lovely to use, way better than the normal OD type. Used on rallying healeys and suchlike. My mk3 spit had it fitted, but on that I reverted to a column switch for originality (as we need to sell that car) But I do like a column switch too.
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