Clive

Much easier to convert to overdrive as it is a simple nuts and bolts operation. You can keep your diff, just gain the extra long od top gear (if you swap diff to the 3.89 it means od top would be exactly the same as your existing top gearing) The realistic choice is either a type 9 conversion (T9 gearbox with longer input shaft, ideally shortened remote, adapter plate to bellhousing, new prop, clutch plate swap to dolly 1850/tr7 type, special speedo cable, speccial mounting, then cut gearbox tunnel about and remake gearbox carpet, gearstick several inches further back) or od (complete overdrive gearbox with od attached, different but std overdrive mounting plate and mount, speedo cable with angle drive, GT6 od prop, and yes, a few bits of wire and a relay) OD conversion probably cheaper and more widely acceptable and no changes to interior trim. T9 ultimately stronger but lots more grief. And if a seller tells you no changes to interior they are lying. If they tell you tell you short input shaft is OK they are lying and don't understand the conversion. Walk away.

Off the top of my head CR is possibly higher on the Dolly Not sure on valve size Valve colletts and dolly may have double springs.

I thought the lip type seal was teh correct one for herald/vitesse, and the baloon type for spit GT6. However, no doubt many will be incorrect. The biggest issue with spit/GT6 is the rubbish design whereby the seal acts on the doorcard rather than the actual door. But not much we can do about that.

The other solution that would not affect door gaps is to pull the doorseal off the lip in the area, and bend teh lip back a little. I find a large adjustable spanner good for this, or a hammer!

You need 2 housebricks (or similar sized blocks) a tape measure, assistant and 2 stright (ie dead straight) bits of timber/metal etc about 2 feet long or so. 1. Make sure car is on level ground and in normal running condition, weights (or more assistants!) on seats to replicate front passenger and driver. Car must not have been just jacked up.... 2.place bricks against bottom of each tyre 3. Place you straight bits of timber/metal on the bricks, with the centre central to the wheels, JUST touching the tyre at the front and back. 4. Measure the distance at the front and back of the timber. I reckon to set mine at 0 toe in. ie distance at front and back the same. If unsure (it is tricky) set if anything a tiny amount of toe in. No more than 1-2mm Same applies at the front....

Are the shocks working correctly? They should give firm resistance in both directions. Have to disconnect one end to check. Re courier spring, they are brilliant once settled. Had one on my old herald estate with the 1" lowering block, really good on autosolos! Another thought, not so much crashing but more skipping, has the rear wheel alignment been checked? that can make a car horrible if wrong.

But Pete did mention economic, 063 about 20% cheaper, and if that doesn't have enough juice to start a Triumph then it really does have issues! I have used 063 for years in all my Triumphs (exception is my dolomite/toledo which has a tiny space so only an 038 will fit) but also in my Mx5, proper mini and when the battery in our Zafira died, I borrowed the one from the spitfire for a few days.... 063 a bit lighter too....(may have to borrow the Toldeo battery for Santa Pod, save a few KG's!!)

Ah, then maybe my 14 odd target is ambitious. I was thinking last night what I can ditch off the car. after the spare wheel is out and I keep the fuel tank fairly empty, there isn't a lot I am prepared to sacrifice. Maybe the towbar could go and is substantial, but after that???? Long term some lightweight lower wishbones may help a little. But ultimately the answer is simple . More power! (apologies for thread drift! perhaps you would like to have a try in mine whilst there?)

Spoilsport! 13.1 sounds pretty quick to me, think I will be over 14 unless the car and more importantly I go on serious diets!

Unless you strip it, there are things you just can't see or feel. Layshaft pin wear being the obvious and likeliest candidate. However, a few basic checks then getting the box in the car and testing before refitting trim etc has been my chosen approach. Along with teh crossing of fingers!

Ah, so glad you will be at Santa Pod. I think that could well be the best TSSC weekend for years, it certainly has the right ingredients. Plus I am looking forward to taking my car down the strip. You up for it John? (as long as I get my rear end sorted first!!)

Good reminder! Forget that last night... Definitely run an extra (nice fat) cable from the alternator direct to battery +ve

Bit of rewiring of the voltage regulator as above, but nothing taxing.

Nothing really modern as most now use a multi-vee belt. However, a look on evilbay will reveal suitable candidates. Some adaptation usually required, but nothing too taxing. Recently bought a daihatsu lightweight 60A jobbie for £25 delivered, but looking at nearest first is helpful.

John, I don't see how it can be embarrassing. You created the car and there it is in the flesh, a properly unique car (not like so many that claim to be that) The fact is unpainted will just add to the history. Hopefully another article will be done once it is painted and all those little jobs sorted (and there is always a list, something I know too well!) Sit back, enjoy a break over Christmas and we are all waiting, like you, to see it in its new colours!

I presume you mean the output shaft of the diff? Yes, shaft will come out of the car from underneath. Not done a herald, but recently did a rotoflex/cv spitfire. Your spring may need you to undo the driveshaft? not sure. Otherwise once the shaft flange is off the diff it is just 4 allen -headed bolts that need removing (you need to rotate the output shaft to access them, obvious once you start) Once the output shaft is out the diff it may be best to buy an exchange one as getting the bearing off (which you need to do to change the seal) requires a puller. I managed to borrow one. Or take it to a garage who can do it for you. Worth doing both sides while you are at it. Maybe the pinion seal as well. (that is easy, no special tools required)

Have you got the bolts through the rear seatpan? usually under a factory bitumin pad. Which car? http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-body-mounting-details Similar on the other cars

Drill down the barrel. The tumblers etc all fall apart and the barrel can then be released. Had to do that years ago when the barrel on my cavalier sportshatch (remember those?) jammed. I remember the workshop chap at the dealers telling me that when I went to buy the new barrel and asked how to get the old one out.

Difficult to check actual position as everything is different, but certainly works fine!

Andy, don't fret about the car. I have been in a modern at least once. Not an issue, in fact one year it was a blessing with air-con! OK, I had better duck for cover, but realistically a modern is better if it is a dash down the autoroute and back. Once there the car rarely moves. Well, that is my experience. (I have also scrounged lifts around the circuit, usually after a few beers!)

With the CV conversion use a std spit/gt6/vitesse 1600/mk1/herald etc etc rear shock. Koni if you want decent ones...set about 1/4 from softest setting. (I have this on my spit with roto/cv convesion, exactly the same as a vitesse would be)

John, eurotunnel is BORING. Cant even get a cuppa on the journey. On the plus side it isn't affected by weather. and is quick. Downside I have used it for 3 return trips this year. Every one has been delayed. Most by an hour, one (migrant issues) by 4 hours. And the long overnight ferries are getting expensive, by the time a cabin is factored in it is nearly £350 a car plus 2 return. Ouch. The 4 hour newhaven crossing is rather better value! plus only 15 minutes from home, another big advantage. And then a decent breakfast stop somewhere, not that the french do a decent fry-up however pastries are always good, and I do enjoy a croque monsieur or madame. But not for breakfast.

Just ordered a few pitches and tickets. That is the Sussex group sorted! Just waiting for the newhaven-dieppe ferry tickets to become available.

My old herald had a small engine bay fire, wife driving, kids in the the back (5 and 3 at the time) but luckily somebody stopped with an extinguisher... That was caused by an alternator fault, at least it appeared to be from my investigations. And you do not fuse an alternator (at least not in older cars)

No welding required. I drilled and bolted the belts. Single hole in teh centre, one at each end (may have been on the wheelarch, but it was 20 years ago!) Do use substantial washers though.