Clive

That is correct. Is yours an all alloy MC?

A crate/pallet of sorts.

Don't use a stopwatch, I am only guessing! What I have found is that using some clear tubing and a bit of copper tube in the end to weigh it down is helpful. For some reason the bleed tube is always curly and never seems to hang in the right place. I think my tube is washer tubing, pushed into some 1/4" fuel pipe at the nipple end, and about a foot of copper brake pipe at the other. 4 of those and an easy job, or do 1 or 2 at a time.

10 mins? I don't open them up very much and yes, you need to keep an eye on the MC level.

I may have a suitable lid (oe lids) amongst my stuff. What type do you need? But I should add that I usually just open the bleed nipples (with tube attached to all 4) and let them bleed by gravity.

https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/head-stud-short-16002-liter-mk1-3 https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=133803RM https://www.canleyclassics.com/?ptno=133803 (available to order, always worth a call to Claire)

I think the manufacturer is saying it is for a 12V car that also has a ballast resistor. All very confusing, but maybe a lot of people don't understand the 6v coil thing?

On my vitesse I primed , stonechipped and topcpoated the chassis and underside. It was finished in body colour, all cellulose. My spitfire, far more recent, I etched, 2k primer and only the underside was stonechipped. Then 2k black for chassis and underside. And inside the car, so when yoiu get a gap in trim/carpet you don't notice! The dolomite I have just about finished just had localised repairs. I used aerosol etch, brush painted some 2k topcoat (the stuff I bought first which would not shine at all) and then a good coat of Dinitrol hard wax, which is brilliant stuff.

I have no idea about the top ball joints being greasable, they were always sealed for life. But I guess teh old fashioned greasable idea appeals to a lot of classic owners. And h=can do no harm. As to teh trunnionless VLs, they are what Caterham have been using fort years. Stronger than the original trunnion type, with excellent longevity despite requiring virtually zero maintenance. I can attest to all that, I have squirted WD40 on a few times in the 30+ thousand miles and they are as good as gold. I am no engineer, but I can see a good idea when I see it. Especially when it has OEM origins.

Owned by the Club chairman. I suspect it cost substantially more than the asking price to restore.

Blimey, how bag are the screws???? I have a lidl impact wrench, it is pretty beefy. In fact I often use my little impact driver for stuff as it is so much easier to use. Nips stuff up nicely, but not proper tight. But that lidle wrench is a godsend. The only downside is less exercise.

You say that, but I was averaging a 1500 engine a year in my Toledo. Failures at some good places, Goodwood pit straight, the Prodrive test track (STAR90) and another on the way to the start of the RBRR, but to be fair that was a pants oil filter theat blew off at 70ish. Fitting a (100K)TR7 engine sorted that for about 5 years until that got too tired. The ford engine in my spitfire was fitted as I just know it is tricky to build a long-lived triumph engine capable of good power (175+bhp). The ford engine had 110kish on it, stripped, light hone and new rings and bearings, though the bearings had very little wear, I probably should have kept them. That egine has done well over 30K in the spitfire now, and despite breathing a bit at 7000rpm, has been good as gold. Lots of life in it. Sorry, waffling on. If driven sensibley, the 1500 will last well with regular quality oil changes and no thrashing. The 1600 will last better, but for many people you are right, it is a moot point.

If worried, best to ask the manufacturer. But I agree with johny, probably a generic warning.

Either have overdrive? a 1500 herald will really need it. The vitesse would be nicer with it, but copes better with the revs. But the decision is yours. I have run a couple of herald 1500s nboth with OD. And for many years a 2.5 vitesse as an everyday car. The herald definitely better as an everyday car, but the vitesse was more "special"

The 1500 will be a better balanced car. The 1600 has the far sweeter engine. Then we get onto trim etc.....

Is the cylinder head brand new? But you shoudl be able to source good spares, though you will need to do your research. Bear in mind if you supply all the bits, the builder will not warrant any of them. So maybe have a word with Chris Witor, he tends to only sell good stuff, and will be able to offer advice. As to cam, something like a mk2 GT6 cam is a very good all rounder. Chris does a special cam based on that, again he can advise.

Are they 13.1mm spline? The mini ones don't work.

Listen to Kevin. He is absolutely right on this, it MUST be the correct tool.

If you are happy to wait a few weeks, under £3! https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000004792153.html?spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.4.54eeYIp2YIp2px&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!US %244.65!%240.99!!!!!%40211b5e1f16729081553496712efbd2!20000000025937899!btf&_t=pvid%3Ab1030c32-b96e-4513-b060-bb76a272f005&afTraceInfo=10000004792153__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1672908155&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt

Just a good wack with a hammer will knock them out. I have always done it in situ. Are you fitting the same weedy 3/8 studs? or fitting 12mm? If going 12mm you may have to drill the brake backplate or remove the hub. To fit just use a stack of washers and a nut to pull the studs in. Always done it that way.

Is it a thin washer? Small or a penny type? And is teh inside of the bellhousing a bit oily? If so I would expect the washer to just stick to the bellhousing. There is surpringingly little clearance between teh flywheel and bellhousing, but if the flywheel turns ok I wouldn't worry too much.

Yes, all bonded. However, it seems teh modern replacements do have a habit of becoming unstuck. Very cleanly too.

Pah, I did a diff change on spit in under 2 hrs the day I was doing the RBRR back in 2008. I had nightmares, thinking that as the diff needed topping up every 500 miles or so, and I was doing 2000, I may as well change the diff to the known leakfree/good one I had. I was done by 8.30am. Saying that, swingspring is easier. And I was younger....

I would borrow one, or make one. However, from what others have said, you won't be needing it. If your spring is sitting at teh correct height, I would simply wire brush it, grease and reassemble. Getting a correctly made spring seems to be a lottery. So many are too high or low.

That is a fair point. I keep stumbling on stuff I have had for years and forgotten about., Vandervell big end bearings, some Glaciers too. Good used but genuine arb links, and stacks of brackets, lower wishbones, some body panels (how did I forget about those?) and some stuff I have even had to buy, only to later discover in teh back of a cupboard. Of course, should I mention my big clearout 10 years ago when I moved house. I did try to give away loads of parts that eventually went to the tip. Including about 15 very good herald/vitesse rear light assemblies. But nobody wanted them, even for nowt.