RobHJ

I ended up 3D printing a new piece for this (plenty of time due to the current lockdown). It's not too pretty, but it works perfectly. If anyone is interested, or wants to print one for themselves, the file can be found on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4270590)

Thanks Colin. I was beginning to think I might have to fire up the 3D printer.....

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the threaded insert (p/n 618945 or 619812)? The plastic thread is broken on mine and the metal part that should screw down onto it is driving me nuts rattling against the lever. Rimmers have a photo ( https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-618945 ) but show it as no longer available and Canley Classics the same. Thanks

Many thanks to all for the helpful replies. I think I'll go for the non-greasable option and keep a close eye on those gaiters. Cheers again Rob

Although I've completed the V112 on JJD 383K (GT6 Mk3), I still get my local garage to do an annual MOT style checkup just to be sure, and they tell me that my OSF track rod end is showing signs of wear. No problem I thought, I'll swap both sides out for a nice shiny new set, but this is where I got a bit confused 😕. Rimmers have GSJ158 Track Rod End - Non Greasable Canley Classics show GSJ158 TRACK ROD END and 106468 TRACK ROD END - INCLUDING GREASE NIPPLE and James Paddock stock TRACK ROD END GREASABLE(GSJ158G) Looking at the diagrams/pictures on Canley Classics and James Paddock respectively it seems the original ones were probably ungreased, certainly the current ones on JJD have no grease nipple I can find. So my question is - is greased better (for longevity etc) than non-greased, or is it one of those personal preference things. Thanks Rob

It might be worth trying a small section with brake fluid. I've seen several discussions (links below) where it's been tried, along with some alternatives, including the wonderfully named Gummi Pflege. https://motorcyclerestorationproject.blogspot.com/2013/08/the-results-of-my-test-using-brake.html https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/ot-what-can-i-use-clean-restore-old-rubber-161342/ http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=21280.0 Cheers Rob

Hi all. Happy to report that Swarfega worked like magic ? Before and after photos here: Cheers Rob

Ah good idea and I think I have some of that somewhere.... Cheers

Thanks for the ideas. Will give Swarfega a go first - sounds a safer option than smearing brake fluid around.... Cheers

The windscreen rubber (inside the car) on my GT6 has a yellow "crust" that doesn't look too good. I read somewhere that old brake fluid was good for cleaning and keeping rubber flexible and wondered if it might work. Any thoughts or better ideas? Thanks Rob

Hi Gully, GT6 Mk III, so all sounds good. Thanks to you and everyone on the forum for your comments and help. Cheers Rob

Hi all, I'm considering fitting these struts to my MkIII and have a couple of questions: Are they likely they fit without any alterations such as AidenT required? I'm no welder so would have to find a friendly garage if it came to that. I have a standard air filter box still fitted - is this OK or likely to be fouled? I assume fitting is a one man job or will Mrs HJ be required to roll up her sleeves too - I'd need to bribe/blackmail her into that. Thanks Rob

Hi all, just to say thanks again for all the advice. A good dose of WD40 and 24 hours later, with a little gentle persuasion, the distribution box is working. Rob

Thanks for the advice guys. Clive - I tried hanging upside down in the footwell earlier - I can see the end of the fitting so will start from there. It's a bit tight of space in there - these cars just prove my wife right.....I need to lose a bit of weight I was a bit shy of taking things to bits but will give the suggestions here a go, hopefully tomorrow.

I've recently acquired my first classic car - a 1971 GT6 MkIII :-) Only a few minor niggles but the main bug at the moment is the jammed heat/air distribution slider. I've tried usual WD40 down the cable but it appears that its the distribution box end not the cable that is stuck. Is there a diagram anywhere that show how this works? All the usual places (Rimmer Bros, Canley Classics) show the cable disappearing into thin air..... Thanks Rob