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Danwedges last won the day on October 29 2018

Danwedges had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Washington Tyne and wear
  • Cars Owned
    1972 gt6 mk3 rotoflex

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  1. Mine are their chrome powder coat but they reckon the lacquer dulls them down a bit so it's more silver than chrome
  2. I would have done the same but I wanted wider wheels for the rear and really struggled to find wider wheels in triumph pcd so I went with banding out the original steels
  3. I just need the fronts powdercoating to match now haha
  4. Yeah got wheels sorted thanks should have closed this off
  5. I've had a play about and found that depending on how it's been driven prior to parking up ie. Reversed, driver forward straight or at an angle can shift the rear wheels back or forward half inch and that coupled to a worn rear spring dropping half inch further on driver side to passenger side was causing the tyre to catch the inner arch lip on the driver side when reversed off the drive so I've knocked the inner arch lips up to give a little clearance but I think I'm going to need new bushes and either a new spring or replacement buttons for the one I've got
  6. Closer inspection of the front tyres shows passenger side even wear driver side wearing more on outside edge, I wonder if pulling the rear wheel further forward could correct this also? I'm going to read up on at home wheel alignment and see what I can sort out today hopefully it doesn't rain haha
  7. Okay so I've measured a difference of approx half inch between driver side and passenger side wheel centres is this too much to adjust via rear tie rods? I didn't expect to see any difference here due to the car driving straight with even tyre wear but it certainly explains the difference in wheel arches
  8. It is a Rotoflex model and I'll definatly measure the difference in wheel centres but if I have to move the tub I don't mind adjusting the bonnet as it's already very poorly fitting is it as easy as just adjusting the tie rods on the rear of the car? Would that not cause unequal wear on tyres as the wheels I've taken off the tyres have worn really nicely and even
  9. I've just fitted some wider rear wheels to the back of my gt6 and have noticed that the driver side rear wheel is almost an inch further back in the wheel arch than the passenger side. Passenger side seems quite central where as driver side is noticeably not centred. So my question is how much movement do you have on the chassis to body mounts and could I loosen mounts and square up both rear wheels to the wheel arches? The car drives straight and doesn't scrub the tyres so I'm assuming it has to be body mounts not being in line rather than rear suspension components not being in line also my car doesn't appear to lean at all either side so I'm hoping I can just loosen the body mounts and nudge the driver side of the body back 1/2 inch to an inch Anyone have any experience with fitting a body to a chassis and know how much play there is? Thanks Dan
  10. Mine still demists quicker with a passenger and as gully said I can too feel more airflow. The felt seals are long gone on both sides of my heater box I've tried rain x anti fog which works to some extent, screen gets wet rather than foggy but it's a nightmare with frost as it freezes I've never tried shaving foam but I've used toothpaste on the bathroom mirror as anti fog but I imagine in frosty conditions it's just going to freeze like the rain x I'd love to be able to fix all my leaks and properly dry out my car but I'm going to have to deal with it this winter and sort them when the weather picks up and I can finally sort out the body and paint I'm gunna check behind the dash if I can swap the hoses from passenger to driver side and if that doesn't work I'll just have to rely on the chamois sponge
  11. My car seems to demist the passenger side of my windscreen at least twice as quick as the drivers side if not faster and I was wondering if anyone else has this same issue? I've checked all the hoses and all are sealed with no splits, my heater flaps are adjusted evenly and still I have superior airflow from the passenger side to the point where I've considered longer pipes and swapping them over (if there's space to do so) The only cause I can think of is the fact that the passenger side outlet from the heater box is higher up than the driver side
  12. Its given me new found confidence in the gearbox and its so much nicer to drive now. I've got leaks here there an everywhere but nothing major, no more than a drip here and there. my sump is the worst of it which I completely expected when fitting the paper sump gasket, next time I will splash out for a rubber gasket but that's engine out job and can wait for the time being. I plan on replacing a whole bunch of seals when I rebuild my 2500 engine and I will drop the gearbox at the same time to go over that and hopefully eliminate any leaks that I have, I gave everything a good clean whilst I was in there so hopefully it will make it easier to pin point where theyre coming from later on
  13. So I pulled the carpet off and this is what I was greeted with as expected the spring had popped the circlip out of its groove and tore the plastic cup/ washer to bits in the prosess Looking at the bottom connection shows 2 outer steel washers with inner plastic washers So I replaced the inner plastic top hat shaped washers with the steel centre sleeve with new on the inner and added 2 rubber washers on the outer between the linkage and the metal washers The rubber bush shown here in the middle link was completely missing when I took it apart and consisted of just 2 plastic washers So no wonder there was always a lot of play in the Gearstick, I fitted the rubber bush steel sleeve and 2 plastic outer washers and refitted the alloy housing, I left the o rings alone in the opposite end of the selector as I totally forgot about them untill I had everything. The groove for the c clip is definitely worn on my gear stick and looks like it may be a reccuring issue in the future but only time will tell it's definatly got a better seating than the old clip after cleaning the groove out from old grease. When reassembled I couldn't select reverse as the new bushes had raised the stick so far that it wouldn't clear the gate when fully depressed and as every component I removed from the gear linkage was in very poor condition I didn't want to reuse any of them so with a little filing of the grub screw I managed to gain enough clearance so that I could select reverse without having to push the gear stick to it's limits to hopefully ease the strain on the already worn c clip groove. Now when driving all gears are crisp and precise with no sloppiness and theres no hint of jumping out of gear so I'm assuming the missing rubber bush and worn everything else wasn't allowing the Gearstick to move the linkage enough to fully select 4th gear as now it's a definite click into gear as with the other 3 gears Overall I'm very happy with the outcome and if the c clip pops again I will look at sourcing a new gear stick and a new clip
  14. I don't have a servo on my car but I read a different post where someone inspected the grooves in the caliper for the seals in both original and repro calipers and showed pictures of the difference in groove shape and claimed it caused the pistons to return too much and described similar symptoms as I have that they can't get a good feel on the pedal and can only achieve a good feel via pumping the brake I mean don't get me wrong my brakes work and work well but they definatly stiffen up if I press them twice Hose clamps are one of those things I've been meaning to buy for ages but only ever remember when removing a petrol tank or some other tank containing fluid and wishing I had a third hand to keep the hose kinked
  15. I'd rather go refurbished girling calipers as the pedal feel isn't as I'd like and seems to stiffen up if you press it twice even tho the brakes have been bled and have no air in the system
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