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David Kirk

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  1. Hi Ben, You could always remove the battery and take it home with you. Batteries like to be stored charged and do better if not too cold.
  2. I have a couple of old cars without audio systems so rather than buying many systems I use my smartphone in a windscreen holder connected by bluetooth to a suction mounted "shower" speaker also squished on the windscreen. (£20 on Amazon) All totally portable and also gives handsfree phone calls and satnav. I am on a tariff that has lots of data so as well as playing music stored on my phone, I can play radio through apps like "BBC sounds" Works in the shower too.
  3. Thanks Nick. I had not appreciated that the extensions were not needed if the CV conversion was done. Looking at the car now I see that the reason for Triumph moving the top damper mount to the wheel arch is because the rotoflex coupling is so large it obstructs the chasis mounting holes. Makes a CV conversion slightly more affordable as the extensions are not needed. David
  4. Thanks all, A very nice set of thoughts and advice. I conclude that although I can see the benefits of lower maintenace for the swing spring, it will require a bit of engineering work to fit - not impossible, but it would not be a straight swap. Although I will be unlikely to get the benefit from the (arguably) better handling set-up of the Rotoflex and I will be having to suffer higher maintenace effort it would seem, overall, sensible for me to keep the Rotoflex. All I need to do now is decide if the CV conversion is worth the money. I see Canley don't do it any more bu
  5. Hello, I am a little way of from completing the restoration on my Rotoflex GT6 but I wonder how easy it is to loose the Rotoflex and go back to the swing spring arrangement? This may be easier than you think as I have a spare rear axle set up from a Spitfire 1500 (diff, driveshafts, spring etc). Is it possible? Any advice welcomed. David
  6. Hello Roger, Yes, the 14W wiper motor. Thanks for the link to SVC. Not heard of them before (and I have owned Triumphs for more than 35 years! Amazing they do all the options in 5 degree steps. So does anyone know what my 130 degree gear is from (might help me sell it on eBay if I know what it fits) David
  7. Hello, I have realised that my Spitfire 1500 wiper motor is fitted with a 130 degree gear, which explains the sweep of the wiper blades over shooting off the side of the windscreen. I understand that it should have a 100 degree gear, which are hard to obtain. I have also seen a 105 degree gear on sale on Ebay and said to be correct for a Spitfire 1500. Which is correct More out of curiosity, does anyone have a list of gears / sweeps and their applications? David
  8. I have ordered 1.5m of copper pipe (5/16) and some olives from ebay. Came to about £10. I have hand held pipe bender which will be good to form a tight 90 deg bend out of the tank and the rest should be easy to get it to the joint in front of the rear axle. Thanks for your help. David
  9. Thanks Everyone. I have drained the tank now and disconnected the rubber hose from the fitting and removed the fitting (see photo) So just a short piece of 5/16" copper pipe (Pete - you were correct about the size - not for the first time I suspect). It looks just like yours Adrian except shorter! That's a shame as I have stock of 3/16 and 1/4 pipe but not 5/16. Time to expand my stock I guess! I'll get some pipe and some olives)
  10. Hi all, Just fitted a double S stainless exhaust to get my GT6 so I can get it running. Then I can work out just how much work needs to be done. (it will be a lot) The fuel outlet from the tank is directly above the left hand silencer box and as it comes out in a "rubber" pipe it is hard to get it to not touch the silencer which I guess is a timebomb! I think I should replace it with copper pipe. Is 1/4" copper pipe the norm? If I use copper then I guess I can get a) a tighter bend to clear the exhaust and b) it won't melt through with the heat from the exhaust. Is there a
  11. My recent experience of fitting a new sender unit was similar - bending the wire arm to get the best result. The other issue I had was that although a brand new aftermarket part, the rubber ring fitted around the float to cushion the float against the tank (when nearly empty) was obviously not ethanol friendly. It swelled in size and came off the float. It then sank to the bottom and would periodically block the end of the suction tube causing fuel starvation. It took ages to get to the bottom of that problem. Many strip downs of the carbs and fuel pump before I figured out what was
  12. Thanks Rob, The head (and so the manifolds) are already off. So it looks like it will drop down below the bodywork with room to spare. I might just take off the timing chain and release the cam sprocket from it's support bracket so as to reduce the overall height of the engine. That should mean I don't have to lift the body too high - I am a bit worried about having to lift it so high that the rear end grounds out on the floor. I suspect if I leave the suspension attached to the sub-frame and just remove the top turret mountings that they will be the hardest (highest) items to extrac
  13. I need to remove the engine as it will need a rebore at least. I have already removed the cylinder head. I appear to be missing the rear lifting eye on the engine but I could probably improvise something there. However. I was also wondering about dropping the engine out the bottom by un bolting the subframe and lifting the body then sliding it out complete with auto gearbox. Nothing in the Haynes manual about the latter method. Any one with experience? Any hints and tips? David.
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