Weathersbubble
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Posts posted by Weathersbubble
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23 hours ago, johny said:
not one of these is it?
Unfortunately not; I'd be looking for a plastic (not leather) coated one, but there is one for sale on eBay currently. Disappointingly those "big" bosses are about 11cm across, where the flat element of the Triumph wheels (and the one I've picked up) is only ~7cm across, so need the narrower piece in the OP. Cheers for checking eBay though!
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As part of my restoration I’ve restored my speedwell wheel and bought a new horn push, but have misplaced the boss 🤦♂️. Do you have a photo of your 3D printed item? I’ve managed to pick up a new metal correctly sized core that attaches to th column, but have no plastic casing for the rear, nor plastic front piece. Would be interested in any available, but especially a repro (the old one was somewhat mis-shapen)
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3 hours ago, Josef said:
Don’t over pay for an overdrive gearbox, the actual gearbox bit. You need a different mainshaft to the non-overdrive but otherwise the actual gearboxes are identical. So converting one you already have may be the way to go. If you do buy a whole unit, make sure all the ancillary bits are present!
Good point! Just trying to work out the most wallet friendly way of going about this but will rebuild whichever gearbox regardless before it goes in
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
if yours is supercharged a higher ratio diff as Jonny suggests would be a far better all round idea look out for a spitty 3.63 :1 much cheaper and overall better option with your increased torque
Pete
I’ll do some maths on the overdrive top ratio and with a 3.63 final drive - doesn’t sound like a bad bet
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3 hours ago, johny said:
Also dont forget you have the option of using a different ratio differential to drop engine revs. Probably not a straight swop but should be cheaper...
I’ll be opening the diff up anyway so this was a consideration
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3 hours ago, johny said:
one on ebay at the moment but price will probably go up some and no guarantee as to condition...
I’m keeping an eye on that listing, just testing the water here too & to get an idea of a reasonable price :)
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Hi all,
Looking for an overdrive gearbox (with overdrive unit) - it will be mated to my supercharged Herald 12/50 engine to try and keep the revs down on a cruise.
I believe most overdrives with small triumph gearboxes were D Type, and I'm keen to stick with a 3 rail gearbox (3 or 4 synchros doesn't matter).
Does anyone have/know of one for sale?
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Cheers all, seems like a stiffer rear spring of some form is the way to go, will have to put some thought into how to lower the rear to the right height.
Already on adjustable dampers all round so should perform fairly well afterwards. I was planning on sticking with the front ARB & 330lb springs but will do some high speed roundabout testing for the turn in
& go from there.
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On 04/04/2020 at 19:38, jiggawhat2k said:
O nice, OK I'll go back again and see if I can get a reply! The spring was about £200 so about right for a custom spring I'd say (might be wrong, maybe I'm a sucker!). Cheers
Apologies for bumping this, but I'm interested in uprating the rear suspension to match some stiffer rate springs on the front (with more power and an LSD). Did you end up going through with this?
I'm particularly keen to know if the stiffer spring specs you had raised the rise height at all, as I'm currently on a 1" block and the original leaf spring, but the rear sits slightly higher than the front.
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19 hours ago, AndyTV8 said:
Unfortunately your first policy is always going to be problematic.... both my girls after passing at 17 had their first year insurance on pretty boring stuff, the best insurance-wise and being dirt cheap to run was the C1.
Adding one (or both) of your parents as named drivers on your policy will lower the premium - often by 15-18%.
I think your desire to drive/run an older car while gaining experience is a great idea - including learning to drive defensively, yes, you are still at the mercy of other drivers, but aren’t we all whenever we cross the road?
Have you spoken (rather than online quotes) to members of the club insurance panel, they may be able to help. But if not, I’d probably go for the boring option, build some no-claims, get another birthday in and then try again - I know that isn’t whepat you want to hear though!
if you do find somewhere do let others know so that they can tread the same path, happy policy-hunting.
last thought, Diamond (subsidiary of Admiral) will sell you a 10-month initial policy and then give you 1 year NCB.... so you get your premium-reducing NCB 2 months early
..... Andy
I have encountered a fair bit of resistance trying to insure a Herald, but I have stumbled accross an Adrian Flux article from 2016, staring a Morris 1100 and possibly an Austin A40 Farina can be insured at 17 for only ~150 more than a Citroen c1. Feel like I may have to compromise for another BL classic.
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5 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
If you were my off spring I would advise a sensible modern, bite the bullet and accumulate some no claims. Our cars have no crash protection, poor braking and poor suspension, once you have some motoring experience you will be ready. One of my daughters drives like a lunatic, the other drives like a granny, neither are ready for a Triumph!
Doug
My theory was learning to drive well from the start, in that I wouldnt be able to become complacent.
P.S. I don’t know about you but I’ve seen some lunatic Grannys about where I live ?
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Just now, John Bonnett said:
If you are determined to insure the Herald, the general opinion is to avoid all Firms who specialise in insuring classics. Go to mainstream companies who will give you the best deal. Insuring young drivers is completely beyond my comprehension. Our 17 year old grandson has just insured an 06 plated 140bhp Audi A4 S-Line Estate for less than he was offered on a 2000 1.4 Astra. How does that work?
From my ever increasing experience of insurance companies, it is based off the risk factor - so a Vauxhall Astra/Corsa is supposedly a car for by racers who spend most of the time yanking the handbrake. An Audi is statistically out of their range so isn't as bad a deal.
...although by that logic they should be paying me to insure the Herald!
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14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
A search on here will find a number of tails of angste and success the collapse of cheap was brought about by the underwriters classing
Aged classics in the same mould as idiots in escorts and saxo etc with them creating high risk.
Adding an adult may help , but some find a citroen C1 is the vastly cheaper option
This has caused a lot of young drivers have been adversly affected by this stupid ruling The club has tried long and hard to get some sense as do the insurance brokers who all loose out but its seems unlikely to change
Cheers for helping me out, it's looking bleak for at least my first year on the road - just seems hard to spend my own money on an unloved Ford Ka or the like
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Hi there,
I'm a newly passed driver (<3 months ago), and am looking at purchasing a first car. I have been saving up for a while, so am looking to spend about £2500 to £3000 on the car (a lovely little Herald 1200) and a bit £extra for insurance.
Searching through forums I have found many stories from 2008 to 2013 of dirt cheap classic policies for new drivers, but recently this appears to have gone dry. I am very interested in an old car for the experience, not money saving - but as a student money is a big factor (luckily my dad can help with repairs).
I have got a few quotes for £2000+ from Peter James and Adrian Flux, with some companies like Admiral not offering me a quote at all. Just wondered if there was anything I was missing other than being part of a car club / possibly adding my Dad with his 20+ years NCB and history of classic cars.
I really appreciate any help you can give
& go from there.
Looking for steering wheel HUB for Formula Speedwell wheel
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Does anyone know if this site is still operating/changed names? Seems to be a dead link unfortunately