SpitfireGeorge

Hi Pete, Thanks for the info. not seen that site before, looks interesting. Cheers.

Hi Pete, Got them from Rimmers. All the main dimensions are the same except for the spindle shaft which is about 1 cm shorter. My old ones had seized as they had not been used for 40 years. I tried fitting one of the originals but it was still a problem. Part of the scuttle has been replaced and I suspect the holes for the wipers are not quite in the right place. I have elongated them as far as I dare but I am having to file all sorts off to get them to fit. Getting the tubes to stay in place could be interesting. Cheers.

Hi Guys, I am currently trying to fit new wiper wheel boxes to my Spit Mk3. All the diagrams show them with the metal tubing being attached at the bottom. However to fit mine that way round I have had to file loads off the bottom to get them over the heater and also file down a rivet holding the heater casing together. They will go in more easily if they are rotated so that the tubing fits at the (now) top but the tubing needs significant bending to achieve this. Has anybody experienced this problem? Cheers.

Hi guys, Is it possible to fit the outer weatherstrip first and then drop the glass in to the door? (Spit Mk3) Cheers

I have a small black panel held on by these bolts. On Rimmers site Part number 715842 called a retaining bracket.

Hi Peter, The worry I have is getting them correctly lined up. I get the feeling that I could not achieve the necessary accuracy. I reckon it would be cheaper to buy a second hand hood frame than pay a bodywork guy to do it. Cheers

Thanks Clive and Mathew, I will certainly bear you both in mind. I had to replace my windscreen frame due to excessive rust and the only one available was from a later Mk3 with the lever fasteners. Looking at Ebay it would appear cheaper to replace the frame than have the catches converted by cutting and welding in the captive nuts and save the measuring too. Cheers

Hi Guys, Other than the front top fasteners on earlier Mk 3 will a Mk 4 hood/frame fit a Mk3 without modification. I realize that the chrome panel on top of the window frame plus seals are different. Cheers.

Hi Guys, Soaked it in all kinds of release fluids and oil etc but still stuck. Will leave it a little longer but I suspect I will have to break it off. Cheers.

I got them. Bashed them home with a wooden brush handle and lump hammer. Went in OK. A bit tight on the inner column even though I smeared it with vaseline.

Hi Guys, Been in email contact with a company that sells Cobra Cub seats for a Triumph Spitfire. They have stopped advertising them specifically for the Spitfire due to problems with the sub-frames causing the seats to be at an incorrect height. I have emailed them back for further details and expect a reply tomorrow. Has anybody on here experience of this? Cheers.

Thanks guys. I was about to smash the thing off and order another.

Hi Guys, Restarted work on rewiring my Spit Mk3 after my op. I have undone the bezel on the main light switch but how do you get the plastic knob off? I can see what looks like a grub screw but it does not have a screwdriver slot. The switch is the original from 1967 so would I be better off replacing it with a new one from one of the usual parts suppliers? Cheers.

That's a thought, thanks. Thanks for the replies guys.

Thanks Dan. I should have photographed the engine bay in various locations before I took it all apart. Cheers.

Hi Guys, Simple question. Just adding the steering rack earth strap which goes from under the greasing blank to where? You can see where it goes from on the owner's handbook but you cannot see the other end. There are a few places I can add it to like an engine mounting bolt but does anybody know the correct location as originally fitted? Cheers.

Didn't know that. Thought they were all home made.

Half moon shape unfortunately. Not using that method again, only tried it as I couldn't be bothered to remove the manifolds and head and set up my clock gauge.

My piston stop is a spark plug as per the photo above but has an allen bolt with the head at the piston end rather than the thread. Used a ratchet from a socket set. Did move it carefully and only pressed slightly when the engine stopped to make sure that it was touching the stop. Still got the dent though..

Hi, I'm halfway through installing a new wiring loom. Had to have a hernia operation 5 weeks ago, saw specialist who said I had to wait at least another 3 weeks before I can do any car work. I'm 69 and feeling it. Cheers all.

Hi Pete, Yes keyway definitely fitted. Looked at piston down plug hole with a torch. The piston stop has dented the top of the piston, just hope it does not cause a hot spot. Anyway checked TDC as per Mjit post and then aligned with the standard timing mark. Set cam position on cylinder 4 valves rocking and hopefully it should be pretty well correct if pulley marking is correct. Cheers.

Hi Pete, That is exactly what I did. Put the stop in no 1 cylinder. Even tried to make it easier by putting the pulley at tdc with the rockers on no 4 cylinder rocking using the pulley timing mark but still got the same result. Quite odd! Cheers

Hi Guys, Been trying to find TDC using the homemade piston stopping tool in the no1 plug. Every time I try I find TDC is about 90 degrees different from the hole in the pulley! Before I take the cylinder head off and use my mercer gauge has anybody got any ideas why this is happening and what I am doing wrong. Cheers

Hi Guys, I have read the various posts on fitting a new cam using unmarked sprockets but I have read so many including non-tssc ones that I am confused. Is this how it is done? 1/ Set engine to TDC on number one cylinder. 2/ With rocker gaps set at 40 thou on number 4 cylinder rotate the camshaft until the gaps on both cylinder 4 valves are equal (one opening the other closing). 3/ Connect the timing chain. I have already installed the cam, months ago, but I want to check it as I am not too confident that it is correct. Cheers.

Drop dead gorgeous. Best I have seen for a long time!