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rlubikey last won the day on January 8 2020

rlubikey had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Reading, Berks.
  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70. Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.


  • Cars Owned
    Current:- Spit 2.5PI, Standard Atlas, Volvo V70 Previous Form:- Dolly 1850 (first car), Spit 1500, Volvo 145 (the green one on The Car's The Star S6E4) & other modern Volvos.

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  1. Andrew, if you change the amount of gas coming out of the engine, it changes the amount sucked in. That means you have to modify the fuelling to accommodate this. I can confirm this is true. I took to using ear plugs on longer runs to keep my sanity until I managed to change to a standard system. Some poor fool (sorry) enthusiastic driver wanted to swap for a sports exhaust. He's probably not on such good terms with his neighbours now. Cheers, Richard
  2. Yes, I use Audacity for transcribing vinyl to CD - especially old records not released since. You can clean up the sound - although de-clicking I find best done manipulating the waveform "by hand"- and split into tracks ready for burning. If you enjoy this sort of thing (I do) it becomes quite engrossing. Perhaps I should have been a studio engineer! But as to CD-to-tape, I think you are stuck with real time. Cheers, Richard
  3. Chris, I think you'll find NPTF simply means NPT-Female. NPT is of course National Pipe Thread, an American standard which is a taper thread. There is only one NPT thread - no variations, unlike UNified-Coarse & -Fine threads. Cheers, Richard
  4. Here you go, the Triumph 2600 MkIII Saloon Prototype from Canley Classics web site museum section. It says "These cars have unique bonnets, nose cones to fit the longer deeper 2600 engine." You can see the power bulge a bit like on the MkI saloon has been added, and somehow the nose looks different, but difficult to judge from this angle on the small photo. Perhaps a trip is in order next time Canleys open their museum for the day. Dave??? Cheers, Richard
  5. You're right of course Clive. How long is it compared to the 2500? Would an "engine back" work?
  6. I believe the Rover 2600 is one of those "what if" engines. As already said, it was developed from the Triumph 2500 for the Rover/Triumph big saloons. Being overhead cam it is taller than the older engine. Someone (Canleys?) had a picture of a Triumph 2000 test vehicle for the 2600 engine, which had a large rectangular raised section in the bonnet. The cross-flow design used the single cam layout of the Dolly Sprint and apparently the performance was so good that they had to de-tune it so it didn't embarrass the Rover V8 engines used in the top range models. I can't seem to lay my hands on any tuning catalogues from the period, but I haven't spotted anyone offering hotter cams to restore the power this engine should have given. I suppose the problem is that this was a one-car-engine. Just imagine what it could have been with a decent cam, then add 4-valves per cylinder - a Rover 2600 Sprint! Give it a go and let us know how you get on. Cheers, Richard PS: Leave the 2300 well alone - it was gutless, presumably to go in a cheaper stripped down model.
  7. Were you ever one of the "Backroom Boys" for Blue Peter Roger? Cheers, Richard
  8. They're on a common dimmer and it doesn't work with at least one conventional bulb. Sounds like maybe the LEDs are dodgy. Sold as dimmable, but does it actually say that on the packet? Even so, I would remove the dimmer and try direct on the mains, then you know to either get an LED compatible dimmer ... or new (different) LEDs. Richard
  9. Colin, from memory, conventional dimmers switch the leading edge of the mains waveform. LED compatible dimmers switch the trailing edge. Also, the LED has to be dimmer compatible and I can't see anything on that packet that says your bulb is. Is the dimmer an in-line jobbie in the mains lead? Is there more than one bulb in each decanter? If so, try one conventional bulb and one LED. My guess is that the dimmer can't "see" a bulb - it doesn't recognise the LED as a light bulb. If there's only one bulb then take the dimmer out of circuit to check it does actually work, then go and buy an LED compatible dimmer. Cheers, Richard
  10. The question is Nigel, which glycol? There's ethylene glycol, and there's propylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is nasty stuff but it's cheap. However, the corrosion inhibitors break down quickly - 2 or 3 years. Whereas the inhibitors in Propylene glycol are more stable and last 20 or 25 years. also, Propylene glycol is nowhere near as poisonous. I can't find an MSDS but it sounds to me as though 4life is based on Propylene glycol and I suspect that's how they get their "enhanced" performance. If so then it's just a "pre-mixed" Propylene Glycol anti-freeze. I run my Spit with domestic central heating heating antifreeze which is Propylene Glycol with 20 years life, compatible with all cooling system materials, and not too poisonous so no disposal issues. The long life means it works out way cheaper in the long run. Cheers, Richard
  11. Yes, the UK Spit passenger side had the warning light BW at least as early as 1977. Cheers, Richard
  12. No James, they didn't look anything like that on my old late (X-reg) Spit, which were just the same as my current ('77) model. Cheers, Richard
  13. "Wireless" - how quaint! Martin, the problem with Spit/GT6 door speakers is they will foul the window when it's wound down if they are too deep. I can tell you from personal experience how dispiriting it is to hear that THUNK as the window hits first time you wind it down. It won't wind any further, and then you put two and two together. I think the only place any speaker will fit - unless you want to chop a hole in the door inner skin - is the bottom rear corner. Take the door panel off and, with a straight edge across the inner skin, measure the distance to the wound down window. It's not much - only just over an inch I think. 30mm, something like that? You could add the thickness of the door trim panel, but remember to keep something for clearance. I did this recently and the ones I fitted say "Radiomobile" but there's no model number and I can't find the box, sorry! They're about 125mm diameter. However, I simply trotted down to my local friendly independent motor factors and they opened the glass case and I measured what they had. You won't get anything special in such a slim speaker, but with the top down and the wind rushing past, who cares! Hope this is some help. Cheers, Richard
  14. Not being a guitar god like Doug, my fingers also get cracked skin & I've tried all the usual suspects of skin cream - Neutrogena, E45, Norwegian Formula, and remember there was a fad of udder cream a few years ago which everyone said was the bee's ... It wasn't. Atrixo make the one I use. Not the "M'ladies boudoir" one in the light green tub, but the ordinary "intensive protection" stuff in the mid-green tub. The trick is, after rubbing it into your finger tips, briefly run cold water over them - just a few seconds - and dry with a towel. This takes away the slippy greasiness but leaves your skin protected with what seems like a slight waxy layer. I imagine this is what keeps the natural oils & moisture in and also stops the roughness from snagging on things like fabrics. Cheers, Richard
  15. Silicone brake fluid is based on silicone oil. Silicone oil - I was surprised to find - is NOT compatible with silicon rubber! So it's POSSIBLE that they've used silicone rubber seals. However, I agree it's much more likely that they simply haven't tested DOT-5 silicone brake fluid and they won't warrant something they haven't tested. When you work in electrochemistry you start to get a bit nerdy about chemical compatibility! Cheers, Richard
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