Tipidave

I may have messed up! I have a lovely replacement wooden dash for my 1967 herald 1200… and have only just noticed that the holes for the control knobs are recessed, whereas the original is flat. I have since read that the recessed dash if from an earlier herald. Are the controls the same and interchangeable? The original dash has had two additional holes where a temp gauge and oil pressure gauge were fitted. Any ideas or comment gratefully received before I commit to removing the original.

Yes I have been experimenting with weights at various distances… what I meant was to recalibrate the tool so that is reads correctly. One of my torque wrenches looks like this should be possible

Blimey that’s not how you want it to look! Sure I can find a way. Probably remove the starter. Plan to drive for a while first (with lots of checking) at least I seem to have fixed the oil leak😀👍have also been researching how to recalibrate my torque wrench… it may be a bit Heath Robinson but reckon it should be doable.

Thanks for the tip… I will go and take a look!

Interesting to find that two of my three torque wrenches are way out of calibration! They are used infrequently and always stored with the spring relaxed. Thanks for the suggestion… at least now I know 😀👍

Fascinating place… still v busy. . I really appreciated the friendly and efficient way in which they dealt with me both on the phone and once the job was with them.

I thought I would share my recent experience with fitting a newly restored leaf spring to my herald 1200. I used a company called Jones Springs in Wednesbury to re-temper and overhaul a second hand unit purchased from fleabay. The company did a fantastic job of it and were a pleasure to deal with… all for what I thought to be a very reasonable price (visiting the factory felt a bit like being on car SOS) During fitting (other than being a bit of a pig of a job) the only stumbling block was that the locating pin on the bottom of the new spring was 0.3 mm larger than the original. It turns out that this was sufficient to prevent it from seating properly. I am guessing the the new pin was a “close“ metric equivalent to the original . I write this in the hope that it may help someone else in future. The issue was relatively easily sorted by substituting the original pin to the new spring. Even then it was very close to being an interference fit. But alls well that ends well…other than looking a bit like a jacked up hot rod when first lowered it soon settled, looks much better and handling is transformed.

I really didn’t do anything other than ensure that the car was in gear and well chocked with handbrake applied. I incrementally increased the torque (starting at around 40ftlb )until such time as I judged it was putting strain on the transmission line. I did it slowly and carefully and got as far as the 80ftlb setting. That said, it is a hefty torque wrench left over from my Land Rover days… it has been well treated but of course there is no real way of knowing how calibrated it is. Nonetheless I think I am best off just enjoying the car and keeping an eye on it. 😀👍

As luck would have it I took a look at the torque wrench used to tighten the nut and I hadn’t relaxed the spring from when I used it (bad workshop practice I know!) and found it was set to 80ftlb. Given that it is closer to the 90-100ftlb mentioned for a similar nut on the vitesse I feel happier to leave it all alone and just observe it over the next hundred miles or so. No sign of any oil leak from the new seal which is a relief. Thanks for all of the helpful replies. It is great fully appreciated😀👍

Hmmm… looks like I will need to have the radiator out again and have another go at it! strange that it isn’t mentioned in the manuals!

Having successfully removed the crank pulley nut and replaced the oil seal I find that I cannot find reference for the correct torque setting upon re-tightening. I could only achieve approx 70 ft lb and have marked it with a white line so I can inspect for movement. Is this sufficient? Does anyone know what it should be torqued to? Thanks again. For any assistance

Great… I will stop fretting and get on with ordering all the other bits that will inevitably need renewing 👍👍😀

So I guess the second part of my post is on my mind… if I am unable to get a 1 7/16 impact socket… would a 37mm be a satisfactory substitute? Would the .5mm oversize be significant when using an impact driver?

Hi all i am about to replace the timing cover oil seal and wonder if anyone can confirm the crank nut size… does 1 7/16 inch sound correct? If so this is 36.5mm would a 37mm impact socket be to big? I am having difficulty getting hold of the imperial socket. Thanks in anticipation of replies david

Interestingly the depth of fuel in the bowl is critical to the correct fuel supply to the main jet. The ‘head ‘ of fuel determines how much low pressure created by the venturi is need to draw fuel into the main jet. A matter of a mm is sufficient to notice an effect. I would suggest that since you have changed the height of fuel in the bowl it is now either flooding or lean during the transition from idle circuit to main jet. Once established at higher revs it becomes less of an issue as the low pressure draw on the fuel increases. it may be that you need to make a further adjustment to the height of fuel in the bowl and or … assuming it is momentarily too rich in transition from idle to main circuit lean the idle a bit.