Jump to content

Adrian Saunders

Members
  • Posts

    339
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Adrian Saunders

  1. Trick the (grand) kids! Use them when playing Operation. Never fails. Ha haaaaaaagh.
  2. Hi guys, I’ve been a bit quiet over the last few weeks. We’re in the process of buying/moving to Coleshill. Just wondered if there’s a group for Coleshill and if it meets? At a distance of course.
  3. Silent Coat, sounds like something from Harry Potter. I shall look up Silent Coat, where’d you get it from?
  4. I’m going to screw my brackets to the vertical face of the screen header rail. The re-shaped hooks will go forward from the listing rail toward the screen header getting no closer than 1/4” to the roof and there’ll be a couple of Rivnuts installed in the header to fasten each of the brackets to. Can anyone envisage any problems with this solution? Also, was going to get a Dynamat Superlite Tri-Pack (457mm x 812mm) from CarBuilderSolutiins to proof the roof. Is this the right stuff?
  5. Thanks Chris. I’ve only just moved back to this. Hence my very delayed response.
  6. Oh my. The pic on that site tells me how, it is below. What is it actually supposed to do? It doesn’t lock/spread the seal like the trims that you push right into a seal. Does it provide resistance to the glass trying to push out of the seal. Re the door slam/pressure build up scenario, or perhaps an exceptional fart.
  7. Yes, but how should the trim fit to/into the seal? Please will somebody post a picture looking along the profile of a correct assembly? I cannot see how my two fit together.
  8. Guys, what I can’t understand is how to fit the trim to the seal. Please take a look at the pictures, I don’t see how. I’m ok with fitting the screen/seal to the car, that’s the easy bit.
  9. Hello everyone. Just come to fit the bright trim (plastic not ss) into the screen seal on my 6 and it doesn’t look right. The seal looks different to others on this forum and I can’t imagine how the trim fits in, and stays in. Canley Classics seal and Rimmer bros bright trim. All suggestions and help will be most appreciated.
  10. Thank you Ian. That’s what I thought.
  11. Thanks Chris. I notice the duct over the steering column. This ties in with a section on mine that’s completely worn through!
  12. But, the fan that you mentioned is to cool the pcb which controls the actual fan. The pcb is required because the fan can run at any one of its predetermined 783 speeds or a combination of, depending upon the occupants. There is also a speed up / slow down mode just in case you can’t make up your mind. Isn’t there. I’m not sure now. And there’s the Boris mode where you can have the fan on, but you can’t. If you do turn it on you must turn it off immediately, after a period of time. The period is exactly three minutes, or two minutes to be precise. If your name’s Dominic, you can leave it on for the whole journey, because you couldn’t see that you’d left it on.
  13. Good, no, excellent news, the fab worked. I’ve fully welded the brackets to the channel and the result is splendid. The 3D printed “tooling” would probably do one more R/H channel before it melts into uselessness. I’ve modeled for both hands so I can produce tooling for car sets. Anyone interested?
  14. Don’t you just love the way some parts were made. The detent for the fan motor speed is a steel ball which is retained in a leaf spring by a hole, the ball then just drops into a corresponding hole in the slide as the slide is.........slid. Just imagine how many plastic mouldings, silicone filled dampers and heat inserts required to accomplish the same today.
  15. Does anyone know which headlining support stick goes where, ie: front, mid, rear. Mine are colour coded green, white and red. Also, I’ve repaired the roof front section and in doing so, I didn’t refit the hook pieces that play a part in the fitting of the lining. Have I dropped a (young bull) in doing so and need to fit them. I still have one complete with it’s knackered end that used to be attached to the car. I’ll remake them in stainless and bond them to the roof. I’ll need positions though so, can anyone send me a marked-up picture or a drawing? Thank you.
  16. Looks wonderful Ian. I’m just under 11 years on mine! Think I’d better start looking into electric motor conversion the way I’m progressing!
  17. That’s a fair point Doug. It would probably need to be hi-def video to capture all the subtleties that one tends to miss with single shots. I’ll use this plus me noggin, redo it four times and relax.
  18. Can anyone get me some under/behind the dash shots of the heater pipe work? Most important are the Y pieces: where abouts are they and what routes to and from them. Thank you.
  19. Ayup folks. I’m rebuilding the dashboard of my ‘72 GT6 and I’m at the heater controls. They’re due a deep-clean (topical) with some brake cleaner and a light lube. What lube have you used at the slides and pivots? PS: Who knew that the screen demist ducts and the wiper tube battle for the same space?
  20. Can the studs be swapped to correct length bolts? That would create a lower assembly.
  21. Hey fella, have you been nailing it together?
  22. Who sells the best stainless inserts?
  23. I’ve used socket head cap screws instead of hex heads to allow extra adjustment.
×
×
  • Create New...