ian.osprey

Cheers Pete. Didn't see a pin, but then, my garage glasses are 2 prescriptions old. Ian

Right! I have patched the moving frame Substituted a 4mm screw and nut for the top rivet. This works, but even when I trim it, it's not an elegant solution. Any other ideas? The rivet is listed NA. I have welded a sawn off bolt onto what was left of the pivot, after removing the brass sleeve. I am pleased with the way it's turned out. This was meant to be a practise, but will probably get used. Does anyone know if the window lock can be dismantled? Mine turns OK and clicks when moved to the in the shut position, but doesn't lock. Pivot on the second frame is broken inside the frame. Need to think about that. Ian

Thanks Pete The post has been soaked and heated, soaked and heated, soaked and heated, (you get the picture). No luck yet. I have a spare NDV (I can talk the talk now ) that I'm experimenting with, which I've already sheared the post off . I can repair it, if I can only get the brass spacer off.... Ian

Thanks Gents. I can guess what bit of the door the NDV is, but what does the acronym stand for? I have removed the NDV's 1) to try to tighten up the inner frame. It automatically closes at anything over 20mph!! However it's rusted solid. 2) one inner frame is rusted through on the bottom corner, so need to repair that. regards Ian

Copying my post from the TSSC face book page Some questions on Herald doors. I have searched the forum and not found any answers. 1) inner and outer weather seals. Is the outer seal one continuous length from front to back? It looks like it from the diagram, and the one I removed did, but it didn't really fit well. 2) dismantling the quarter light there was a separate, very rusty, metal seal/filler on the inside. A very skinny 'p' that might have been chromed at the top. I don't see this on the parts diagram. Any ideas? 3) How does the quarter light dismantle? I feel as though the sprung shaft is going to break trying to take it apart. Does the glass just pull out or does the lock go though it? As always, all responses greatly appreciated.

I have a Bosch which refuses to die. Any time I see an angle grinder in a sales bin (~£10) I buy one just in case, but the Bosch just keeps going! So know I have 4, one each with a wire brush, cutting disk, grinding disk and flap wheel. Extravagant, but sooooo handy. I'd vote for Bosch, but the cheepies haven't let me down either.

175/70 x 13" 175 = width of tread in mm 70 = aspect ratio. The height of the tyre wall expressed as a percentage of the tread width. 13" = diameter of wheel

Single transverse box at rear with driver side exit pipe http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-exhaust-system-rear-pipe-and-silencer-all-markets-except-usa

Agree with Clive. One located from gearbox bolt to exhaust, one from the diff front plate, which, handily, has a hole both sides so you can mount a twin exit system.

In case anyone wants to use this thread as a reference..

Thanks guys. I think I need to go look at the 12/50 in the Riverside museum in Glasgow tomorrow. (museum of transport) Never an unwelcome task

Thanks Paul, but I don't get it If I step the reinforcement, wont there b a step between the bonnet top and the wing? Or is that the point? I'm looking at a bonnet that been repaired before, so I don't have any reference as to what's 'right'

I've read the posts on the problems in fitting 13/60 wings to Vitesses. Are the replacement panels any easier to fit to a 13/60 bonnet? In particular the curvature. The bonnet I have is not too badly corroded, but I was considering replacing the wings because of horrendous mismatch between the wing and door profiles. Looking from the front of the car, you can clearly see the door hinges!!

The only thing I've seen is the T6 shell in GRP. http://www.triumphspitfirelemans.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/3409?opendocument&part=4 Not the same, but close....

... also needn't be a problem at the front. Bent anti roll bars for instance

I'd guess at ECE = Emissions Control Equipped? AKA US models

Hi, They use clips. part #608817, they don't appear in the diagram, but looking at Rimmers listing, they appear as 'Clip - Trim Retaining For bonnet front moulding' I don't think they work too well, the car I'm working on had self tappers discretely tucked on the underside.

Yes, there goosed!!

Part of the lock mechanism?

Thanks guys. Re-use it is. The strikers are truly mangled, and there is slight wear on the slider, but since it appears to work by wedging the striker/door plate together (?) it looks as though they may self compensate. i.e. simply move further into place.

That'd be great, I'll not receive the mounts before then anyway.

I need to replace the door strikers on the car. Rimmers have them in their sale, but they are less sliders and springs. What do the sliders and springs do, and should they be replaced if visibly worn? Ian

Hi all, A continuation from my earlier seat belt query. Can anyone give me dimensions for the location of the seat belt mounts on the rear wheel arches? I have replaced the arches on this car, and wasn't going to bother with the mounts, but I've decided to use Garth's idea on reinforcing the B pillars. Ian

Thanks for the replies. nice to know I'm not making unnecessary work for myself. There's enough work in this car as it is. Garth. I like your solution, but, with no seat belt mounts on the new inner wings, I'll need to make some up. Worth it though, yours is a much neater solution. Ian

Thanks for replying Paul. 'top front of the hood well' do you mean through the rail at the top of the B post? There were mounting points on the original rear inner wings, but not used in the current setup. The car has inertia reels, with the reel is mounted on the floor, the upper mount is on the top of the B post. The hole can be seen in the first photo. No reinforcing plate. I can't believe this is strong enough to be any more use that a chocolate teapot. Ian