Dave1360

I bought one of these a while ago for the standard non-locking Vitesse cap - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372632387997 I can't remember the size but they've got plenty to choose from. Still like new 2 years later. Dave

Another option if everything's still attached is that the handle mounting bracket is slotted so you can slide it forward to give more "pull" after loosening the bolts holding it.

You may have missed them last time, but they're back again: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353850791946

Is this what you're after? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234364992926?hash=item36913dfd9e:g:65kAAOSwBRVh0tKP No connection, just happened to see it.

I did this on my 13/60 and noticed the gauge read noticeably warmer, presumably because too much water was bypassing the radiator. Ended up shoving a suitably sized bolt into the pipe to reduce the flow down and it was fine again. On the other hand, my first Vitesse was plumbed in without the heater when I got it and that didn't run any warmer than when i reconnected the matrix.

Hi Paul, Hopefully the attached pictures will be of use to you. I can't really see what happens once it gets towards the tunnel and bulkhead though. Cheers, Dave

Hi Mark, I've got one that came as a spare with my old 13/60. It was semi-wrapped when I got it so it's either new or reconditioned. I'm in Gloucester though, so it may be an issue getting it to you. Cheers, Dave

That's great Martyn, thanks very much. I'll mark it up to match yours and see how it all looks. I must admit I'd be tempted to even up the 170/200 gaps though. Cheers, Dave

Sorry, I'd forgotten that you had the screw holes but not the strips themselves. Screw hole positions would still be useful though.

Yes please Martyn, that'd be useful. Also, any chance you could get a tape measure in shot too so I can see how far forward/back the strip goes and where the screws go in it? Cheers, Dave

Thanks both, I'll get the drill out when I get a chance.

Hi, just following up on Martin's original question about the carpet sill strip. I've bought a pair of strips as mine were missing and there's no sign of any screw holes in the floor in the area expected, other than one screw that currently goes through the carpet too far back for where the strip should sit and three screws through the carpet in front of the front of the seat mounting. Both sides are identical. The floors are original and the carpet is original. I could easily imagine somebody having refitted the carpet, forgotten the strips and only put a few screws back in, but I'm surprised not to see more old screw holes in either the floor or carpet. As it stands, the carpets are held down reasonably well by the door seals anyway, but I'm wanting to keep it as original as possible so wouldn't want to either start drilling holes that shouldn't be there or to have things missing that should be there. Does anyone know if it's possible that a 1964 Vitesse may not have had the strips originally? Thanks, Dave

Particularly if the car is still positive earth.

Hi Pablo, I've got one of those Radiomobile Model 80 radios in my Vitesse 6 too, but they're actually an early 1970s model from what I've worked out. I still think it looks great and have no intention to replace it though. Great looking car too!

I was wondering the same. My 1964 Vitesse is missing them and the screws are directly through the carpet with no signs of flattening where the strip should be. Either they were removed a long time ago or were never fitted.

Another point that may be useful - don't assume that what comes out will be identical to what you're putting back in. The kits seem to have changed a bit over the years, hopefully for the better. The middle joint that I recently removed consisted of an outer metal bush, a rubber tube and an inner metal tube, but what went back in were a couple of nylon top hats and an inner metal tube. Similarly, the thin plastic domed washer has now been replaced by a metal one in Canley's latest kits, which presumably stops the spring pushing up through it. I've now bought three kits (for different cars!), all from Canley's and they've all been a vast improvement on what was there before. Grease anything that moves and tighten the nylocs until just before the joints show any sign of stiffness.

I managed to compress the spring with two molegrips once, but it wouldn't have passed a Health and Safety inspection. From what I remember, I had to keep releasing one side then the other, tightening the grips each time.

Just a quick update. The cause of the problem was the brake hose and it was nine years old. Interestingly, the link that Pete Lewis put in the other thread about braided hoses suggested the average hose life was 8-10 years. Just need to bleed it all through now and get driving it again. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Dave

When you say later hubs, are these the ones fitted to the 2L models with Type 16 brakes? I tried and failed to go down this route with the previous Vitesse, except that I picked up a pair of cheap 13/60 hubs from eBay which I then realised used different stub axles and bearings at which point I gave up.

I've read discussions, possibly on the old CT forum, relating to Type 12 to 14 conversion. The gist of it seemed to be that the hub needs its edge grinding down slightly for the T14s to fit, although I'd assume it would be easier to grind the body of the caliper if it's only a mm or so. Not yet convinced to go to the effort currently although that or even a T16 upgrade may be on the cards one day. I've stripped it down and it wasn't pretty. The track rod end boot had melted, the disc looked like it was peeling slightly in places and there was no rubber left around the pistons. The bearing races were also marked so they're not going back in either. On the positive side, the trunnion is in great condition and now totally free of a previous owner's grease. Dave

Thanks again. These are Type 12 calipers as it's a 1600 and I'm happy to go for the recon Girlings as the price doesn't differ much as you say, although I've not heard of any problems with the 12s compared to the 16s. Not too keen on just replacing the pistons and seals due to the melted mess that used to be seals - if they've gone then I'd be dubious about the seal between the caliper halves too. I checked back through the history last night and both the calipers and front hoses were replaced 9 years ago and the back hoses only two years ago, so I think both the fronts are worth a change. The bearings are likely to be original as the car's only done 20k miles from new, so I'm happy to splash out on a good high quality replacement if needed rather than a dodgy eBay special. Nick - your offer of discs is really appreciated, but it'd probably cost more in petrol to collect them than to get a new pair delivered. Once the sun comes out this morning, I'll start dismantling and see how I get on. Dave

Thanks all, some useful advice there as always. The rear hoses were replaced fairly recently, but I'll replace both fronts if the cooked one has collapsed at all - it's only another £6 or so. When I get back from work I'll also check through old receipts and see if the other caliper has already been replaced as I seem to remember them being different colours. As it won't be a quick job, it gives me the opportunity to regrease/adjust the other bearing and check both trunnions whilst it's up on axle stands. Dave

Well I've had my first breakdown in the new Vitesse. The AA man was very helpful but it was a tow home. The nearside brake caliper had seized and I hoped to nurse it back home but the smoke made me change my mind. Having stopped, there was liquid grease dripping from the hub and the brake dust seals were a charred mess. Anyway, I was wondering how far to strip and replace. I'm obviously going to replace the caliper which is knackered and the hose too as it may have been that collapsing which caused the problem and I have a spare anyway. If the grease got hot enough to melt and drip then I'm guessing it's safer to replace the bearings too. But what about the disc (do both as a pair?), felt seal and the pads and shims? I'd appreciate any advice as I don't want to replace parts unnecessarily but on the other hand I don't want to ignore things that may look ok but still be dangerously overcooked. At the moment, the car's only just arrived home so I've not had a chance to dismantle and see what's what. Thanks, Dave

None of your photos show the enrichment pipe between the two carbs. Is it actually connected now?

If the valve is shut then nothing should fall out from the bottom of the matrix, but there's bound to be a bit in the pipes that will spill out when you disconnect and move them.