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Everything posted by Sparky_Spit

  1. The method used by Andy Healey(?) was to machine out the spindle bores and insert small bearing races each side of the carb that had rubber seals built into them. A proper engineered job.
  2. There is a gentleman up north, somewhere near Doncaster, called Andy Headley (or similar) who can do this. He did my HS4s quite a few years ago now, at a very reasonable price, and they have been perfect ever since. Sorry that I have no detailed contact info - maybe someone on here knows who I am talking about?
  3. I did the entire interior of a Mini (except the headlining) with black Vinylkote and it looked pretty good. I used the spray cans but can't remember how many it took. It lasted pretty well and was quite tough. Also very much cheaper than buying new covers and side panels.
  4. I've been using these flanged Minispares nuts for quite a few years now, on Triumph engines and on two different A series engines, and have had no issues with the lower flanged face of the nut deforming the surface of the head. I personally wouldn't use a separate washer underneath them; it defeats the object of using them in the first place, as you would need to be 100% certain that you have bought properly hardened washers and not ones made from cheese. The Minispares nuts have been around for a long time and have a good reputation.
  5. Hi Sandy - use these head nuts from Minispares. They are flanged and do not need washers, and are top quality items and exactly the right size and thread for your engine. Cheap too. Lots of people are using them on 1300 and 1500 Triumph engines and recommend them. CAM4545 - Mini head nut flanged type for cylinder head (minispares.com)
  6. Regarding the rear trunnion "top hat" bush kits; the standard ones supplied by most retailers are dimensionally incorrect and will not fit properly unless they are trimmed down slightly. Easy to do in a lathe if you have one, but even then the dust shields are poorly formed and the whole thing is a bit of a dog's breakfast. After a tip-off on here, I used Superflex kits and they fit perfectly. More expensive but worth it.
  7. Yes, just a tube that is small enough in diameter to fit inside the "sucking" tube. I think I used fish tank airline tubing. I like Jugnuts idea of using metal tubing.
  8. I have one like that and it does work; I changed my oil a few weeks ago. I found I needed to push a smaller diameter tube up the inlet tube supplied with the pump, so it was easier to wiggle it down to the bottom of the diff casing.
  9. I used to have one of them. Bloody great big heavy thing. I dropped it once in a car park and it took me and two bystanders to pick it up. That was its last adventure before it got sold and I vowed to never to watch anything featuring Charley Boorman ever again. I now pootle about on something befitting my age, an Enfield Bullet 500.
  10. Hi Colin - just seen your comment on my VL failure; the VL in question was a new one that was less than a few months old. I bought a pair, including new trunnions, from Fitchetts but I'm sure that they are the same items as all the other suppliers sell. What was odd with the one that failed was that the oil hole which runs up the VL was drilled off centre, by quite some degree. My immediate thought was that was the cause the failure. However, after seeing some close-up photos of the breakage, a chap on the Sideways forum (who is a metallurgist) concluded that the off centre drilling was unlikely to be the root cause of the failure, but a defect propagating from elsewhere. There is a long forum thread on Sideways somewhere, with pictures and comments. I sent mine back to Fitchetts and I'm told that they took this up with their supplier, although I heard nothing more from them beyond that. I had a full refund from them and bought trunnionless from Canleys (and new underpants from M&S). I won't be buying a "new" set of VLs again.
  11. There used to be a DIY kit available from Maplin Electronics that was easy to put together and only cost about £15. I built one for my Spitfire and it works very well. As you may know, Maplins closed some time ago but there may be a source of the same kits elsewhere? EDIT..... Looks like they are still trading online. See Maplin - K2599 Intermittent Wiper Controller - Special Savings Today at Maplin Direct with UK Direct Sale Bargain at £12.99
  12. Like Mathew above, I've had a vertical link snap when exiting a roundabout, at about 40mph. It wasn't fun and not something I'd want to experience again. I've now had Canley trunnion kits on there for 5 or 6 years with no issues. Well worth the extra cost.
  13. Ah yes, you are correct Doug. Human hearing is not linear, but something like a logarithmic curve, so it would be a much higher multiplication factor that would sound twice as loud, and therefore a larger increase than +3db.
  14. My car has been noise tested by CMC rally scrutineering at 96db at 1 metre, and at Goodwood at "less than 98db", at 1 metre. I understand that. But I'm a bit confused with db levels in practical use. I know that in audio electronics an increase of 3db is a 100% increase in level, a doubling of amplitude, but this does not mean that it is twice as loud in audio terms. Why is that? If a 3db increase gives you 100% more amplitude why is it not audibly twice as loud?
  15. This process has been around for some time and does work as stated. I tried it some time back as an experiment using test tubes etc., and it was easy to do. However, it is very time consuming and a bit messy and would not be a practical option for classics that get used a lot, or those cars which run in any type of long distance events. Maybe okay if you are just driving every now and again to shows, etc. The current 5% ethanol in fuel is easier to use with appropriate engine adjustments, but the new 10% fuel will be a different matter to deal with.
  16. Fear not Oliproctor, there definitely is cast aluminium present around the steel pipe, and quite a good thickness too. Hope this helps.
  17. I waited for the "new" Payen AK260 1500 gaskets to become available. By that I mean the ones that are now being made in a different factory, in the UK. Checking both types side by side by side they look very similar but the new ones look to be slightly better finished. They can be identified by a very small shiny hologram on the gasket packaging and the label having "made in England" printed on it.
  18. Hi Bfg - the instrument panel voltage stabilisers and the standard mechanical ones do need to be mounted with "up" at the top. Also, the securing screw provides the earth (-ve) connection to the unit so make sure there is a good clean area free from paint/dirt/rust around the screw hole. Lastly, you can buy solid state versions of these built into standard looking cases, or you make your own using a 10.1v zener chip.
  19. Pete - the holes are not punched into the gasket; what you see in the pictures is a near perfect circle of the gasket material that was over the jigging hole burned away, as it had no support nor heat sink from below. This is on a normal Payen gasket. I think the same holes are on 1300 blocks as well (although I'm prepared to be corrected?) , but are not such an issue as they are not recessed blocks like the 1500 and late MkIV. Wim - Some googling of this problem led me to a US website for MG MIdget 1500 racers having the same issue and using valve guides inserted with epoxy and then machined flush with the top of the block. Gareth Thomas also advocates doing the same.
  20. Hi Wim - I had similar problems with the gasket fire rings burning through just where the meet the blind jigging holes near cylinders 1 and 4. I suspect that the resulting lack of support for the gasket material behind the fire ring creates a weak spot. I filled mine with brass plugs, epoxied into place. See Advice please - gasket fire ring failure on new engine - Engine and Ancillary talk - Sideways Technologies (sideways-technologies.co.uk) Mike
  21. When I was a lad I used to run my scooter on a TVO (Tractor Vapourising Oil, Paraffin basically ) /oil mix, from the farm where I worked on Saturdays, to get to and from college during the week. If I was particularly skint I'd use my brother's cricket bat oil (linseed?) instead of two-stroke oil. I needed to be careful to run it on petrol to start it up, as it wouldn't start with TVO, and I had a fish tank air-line tube and plastic 3-way tap which I switched over from a Fairy Liquid bottle of proper petrol/oil mix to my "free" home brew once I was a few miles down the road, and then did the reverse just before getting to my destination. I did have to change the plastic fish tank airline tube every now and again as the petrol used to melt it over time. Those were the days...
  22. Luckily that is the easiest bit to cure if it isn't. Just rub down the pump body on wet and dry paper on a perfectly flat surface, as per the instructions in the link I posted. One of the most satisfying little jobs and which gives good results for so little effort.
  23. Hi Aiden - one tip before removing the timing chain and sprockets..... Set the engine at top dead centre with piston no1 on the firing stroke. The timing marks that are scribed on the engine's front plate and sprockets should all line up. There may also be some centre punch marks. Mark all these with a tiny blob of paint. Then take some pictures for reference when you put it all back together again.. See below for what I mean.
  24. Aidan - a good description of Triumph oil pump "blue-printing" can be found here; Oil Pump (danielsonfamily.org) The only engineering tool required is a set of feeler gauges, plus the wet&dry paper/flat surface. The correct pump clearances are in the workshop manual.
  25. Sparky_Spit


    I am waiting on James Paddocks to send me a Payen head gasket for a recessed block 1500, which has been on back-order for a few months now. They say that their supplier is waiting on new gaskets to be manufactured. I know that a new manufacturer or maybe even a new factory is being used for Payen production, but that was some time ago now. The head gaskets for the 6cyl and 4cyl engines must be made of the same material and the fire rings must be similar surely? The engine in question has previous when it comes to head gaskets and is a bit choosey in that it needs one with perfect fire rings. I offered up an unused spare Payen one this afternoon and the fire ring fit is perfect with respect to the block, although I'm not going to use it as it has been in the boot of the car as a spare for a couple of years and its "stickiness" is a bit suspect. I will, however, be able to check the quality and fit of the new one against the spare one when it does finally turn up. It might be interesting..... Hopefully not.
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