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Posts posted by NonMember
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Depending what you mean exactly, reluctant cranking can be due to odd things. My Spitfire had an occasional issue with only getting half a rev of cranking before stopping. It turned out to be a sticky centrifugal advance in the disi. When stuck fully advanced, the ignition kicked back hard enough to stop the starter motor dead.
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I thought Jonah said the rubber seal has split, which definitely needs the trunnion undone.
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I don't think anyone mentioned, to get the trunnion off you need to remove the brake back plate and hence disc and caliper
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Theseus would be proud (or perhaps the curators of his ship would)
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As Pete says, the rev counter at zero strongly suggests it's a low tension ignition problem. It could be loss of supply (dodgy switch or connector somewhere) or it could be the points/EI module.
As a curve ball, I had a VW Passat that suffered the same symptoms, which turned out to be the loom rubbing on the engine earth strap. Whenever the bit that had worn through the insulation made contact, it shorted the pickup (or points) and killed the spark.
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My GT6 used to do that if I took too long doing clutch control. Turned out to be a leaky return seal in the master cylinder.
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Spring pan in the wrong place would affect ride height but the fitted length of the spring shouldn't change. The spring compresses according to the weight on it.
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3.2mm would be a lot of movement. I think I read that as 0.32mm
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Most of the reason the PI didn't always have vacuum advance was that the manifold vacuum is 'noisy' - it pulses something rotten and upsets the disi
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1 hour ago, Pettifordo said:
Just not sure if I should replace the fuel pump anyway
No, you shouldn't. Your original pump is almost certainly better set up than a new one.
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Heralds were originally fitted with the 205 type - reservoir angled from the cylinder to compensate for the slope of the cylinder on installation. Later Heralds (with disc brakes) had the plastic extension to increase the reservoir capacity.
Spitfires used the larger capacity type - probably the 220 - where the reservoir was perpendicular to the cylinder. This means it leans forward when installed, so you don't get the full benefit of the size, but then it's a big enough reservoir that you dont care.
Vitesse and GT6 used a larger bore version of the large reservoir type.
There is no problem with clearance on a Herald, but the Spitfire/GT6 bonnet is lower, so the mounting bracket is subtly different on them.
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15 minutes ago, Jonah said:
did you force oil through the grease nipple on the trunnions with a grease gun?
I have always used that method and it works well for me. I know many folks agree with Paul on the syringe for normal maintenance but I'm not so convinced that it will allow you to clear the grease out.
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OK, here are three views of mine. Note that this car has been extensively rebuilt, so I can't guarantee it's absolutely right, but I believe it's close. Also, when I fitted the exhaust, I think I had to trim an inch or two off the middle pipe to make it fit.
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I don't have any photos to hand but I could maybe crawl under mine this evening and see if I can get some.
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I also don't have a reply box on the Green Flag thread, or any other in the "Out and About..." group or the "Spotted" group. I think it's because we're foreigners here.
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32 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
2nd gear should turn freely
Surely it's in mesh with the layshaft, which is in mesh with the input shaft, which is engaged in the clutch and therefore the engine? It should turn OK if the clutch is pressed.
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OK, so if it doesn't slide far enough to hide the teeth, then it's not engaging properly, and that's probably where your problem lies. Something is jamming the hub from going fully into 2nd.
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21 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Then I decided to fit shims between the bonnet and the frame
Well, that will work. The correct ("official") way to do it is to remove the overriders, loosen the bolts on the hinge boxes, and move the pivot point up in the slot, then re-tighten. I think it's the front bolts (hinge bracket to outer box) that has the vertical adjustment, while fore-aft adjustment is available in the hinge bolts themselves (accessed through holes in the sides of the boxes).
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Your "better pic" is of the 3/4 selector hub, so it's not actually better 🤔
Is the 1/2 selector fork (the one on the central slider in the cover) free to move now? What about the 1/2 hub (the one with the big straight cut gear around it)?
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It's hard to say where the problem is most likely to be until you've opened it up. If the selector fork is free to move when the cover is off, then it's probably not in the cover. If the synchro hub moves OK without the fork, then it's probably not in the detent springs etc.
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That looks like a bit under half way in, certainly not properly selected.
Try again with the clutch down, in case it's just baulking.
If it really won't go beyond there, I think the cover needs to come off.
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Adding spacers to the bottom fixings is certainly an option. Also worth checking the "guide packing pieces" and the way the guides align with the glass fully up. If you look at the drawing, the channels narrow at the top, towards the interior of the car. This is intentional, to pull the glass toward the seal as it reaches full height. However, when the drop glass is fully up there is very little locating it and they do flop about a bit (this is why the GT6 has quarter-lights - it stops the glass being sucked outwards by the airflow at speed).
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55 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
sounds like the PCV diaphragm is holed
If there's a significant leak into the PCV - and that includes a holed diaphragm with the filler cap off - then you get a really lean mixture and refusal to idle. Unless, of course, the carbs are set pig rich, in which case you may get a wildly high idle.
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9 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
The reason being to stop grease being pushed into the brake drum area and damaging the shoes!
And also to stop water getting in to the bearing.
Replacement diff Mk1 Vitesse
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
No, you don't. That's only needed for the Mk2 suspension. The swing axle can be done as johny said, or even easier.
Put a jack under the vertical link to take the weight off the shock absorber, then undo the UJ from the diff before taking the shock off. Lower the jack and undo the spring eye bolt. The half shaft is then free. With both sides done, there's no tension on the spring any more and you can just unbolt it.