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As Pete says, the faint click you hear is the relay, but that solenoid is not engaged. It's probably a wiring fault between the relay and the solenoid - if that blue wire with a red crimp is the solenoid connection then I definitely don't like the look of it. Time to get the multimeter out and look for where the volts aren't getting to.

There's a particular electronic project I maintain for a tech holiday for 12-15 year-olds, which uses a 555. It has caused us so much grief, with specs being marginally different between makes and new vs. old, that I really want to simplify the whole thing... by substituting one of those 8-pin, 6 I/O microcontrollers that Iain found cheaper. But that would replace not just the 555 but also the two 4000 series CMOS chips and most of the resistors, capacitors and diodes - the project would become too trivial as an electronics project and just a bit too awkward to run as a hybrid electronics / programming one.

As did I, until the Toledo's rather worn and abused big ends let me down on the M25, then SWMBO insisted I got something modern. An old Triumph, well maintained, will do general pottering fine, especially if you're a typical Londoner and don't use it every day. They like a few moderate (20 mile) journeys every month; they don't like a two mile daily commute, nor being left untouched for ten weeks. And, as Clive also said, some of us cover 2000 miles in a weekend in them - my GT6 has done that five times in the 26 years since I rebuilt the mechanical parts.

I think the MKIV Spitfire heater is the same as the Mk3, or similar, anyway, and doesn't actually have a "top" hose. The matrix goes up one side, there's a pipe across the top, then down the other side, so both hoses are at the bottom. Makes bleeding a pain.

Back in 2016 my RBRR co-driver brought a satnav along, partly because he didn't trust the 1972 vintage speedo. The GPS speed showed that the speedo was consistently over-reading by 5%, which didn't surprise me but got me wondering, as the trip meter seemed to be out by the same. A couple of months on, I had a poke around underneath and noticed that the diff had a GE prefix, which I knew to be a 13/60 Herald number. A check of the wheel-to-prop rotations showed that it was, indeed, a 4.11 ratio! The car now has a 3.63 diff and, as you'd expect, the speedo is about 5% low according to GPS. So it would be surprisingly accurate if I had the "proper" diff!

Well, according to this US posting the correct TPM is 1184, which sounds familiar, and 1248 for a Herald. However, I've just checked my GT6 (Mk3 OD) and it's 1152. You may also find references to 1000 TPM speedos but I believe that's the late, single rail gearbox (Spitfire 1500).

I'll tell you what it's NOT for - an overdrive GT6! I can't remember the correct TPM figure for the 3-rail with 3.89 diff but it's four digits. I think 11xx, and the 4.11 diff should have 1214 or something. 980 could be for a 3.27, non-OD spec.

I know my first Vitesse - a late Mk1 - had an arrangement like Peter T described. That was back when it was only 20 years old - doesn't rule out bodgery but it looked OEM.

Yes, the Mk3 column is identical to the Herald. The bottom coupling isn't that hard to get to! Remember, when you did the earth strap you needed to get at both ends. For this job, you only need to release it from the rack, which is fairly accessible.

Most likely. It's another of those areas where the reproduction parts vendors don't care about the details and will take a Mini headlamp ring and market it as the one for any other car with 7" headlights and chrome rings. But the proper ones are out there if you look, or buy from a reputable specialist.

Screw? The headlamp rim on early Spitfires just snaps on.

What do you consider "sensible"?

The Dolomite front brakes are OK... by comparison to the TR7 ones!

Holts Isopon is a brand, and P40 is one of their products. They also make "P38", which is a normal body filler and works OK. The Bodysoft is a professional grade filler, slightly smoother to apply and easier to sand. I bought it from Autopaints of Brighton

If there's a fair amount needed, or if it's covering a weld, I try to start with either lead loading (if you're good at it) or a GRP type filler (P40). This keeps the vulnerable bits dry - normal filler isn't waterproof. Then I generally use "Bodysoft" for the final fill up to shape.

Without a pipe between the two, the rear carb will suck in air and run lean, while the front will spew fuel out when on choke. I suggest you put the pipe on!

Did you tighten all the suspension bolts while jacked up? If so you've probably locked it solid - you may have some incorrect trunnion bushes or sleeves.

It's hard to say just from the photo. How do they compare with the slot in the hub? They don't look too bad to me but I'm no expert.

You are correct, Colin. The points connect one side of the coil to earth, so it should be the -ve terminal on a -ve earth car. I would guess that what Tom has is a car that used to be positive earth but has been converted, only the person who converted it forgot they needed to do the coil, too. Either that or the last person to change the coil put it on wrong.

I think the hydraulic fittings are 3/8" UNF - you can get grease nipples with 1/8BSP threads, which is nearly the same but not quite.

The brown crud on the outside where the piston circlip is usually responds to a bit of mechanical persuasion - poke at it with a small screwdriver tip or a wire brush. It helps if you can push the plunger in for better access. Don't use compressed air! I know it's tempting if you have it but you build up a lot of pressure of highly compressible gas. When the piston shifts, the pressure is still there for the whole of its travel, accelerating it until it shoots out like a bullet. A grease gun works far better - it builds the pressure with incompressible liquid. As soon as the piston moves, even a tiny bit, the pressure drops. Thus you remove it in a safe and controlled manner. Or, once you've got the crud and circlip removed, you may find tapping, poking, or leaving the piston in the vice, open end down and full of brake cleaner, overnight will do the job.

The early suspension (Mk1 Vitesse and, probably, Mk1 GT6) is moderately compliant and provides a reasonable ride. The Rotoflex setup usually seems to be rock hard. Admittedly my sample size is small, certainly on the latter, and it may be that Vitesse Mk2s were softer than GT6s (not quite so sporty, more of a gentleman's car, you know). Also, Vitesses have more seat cushion than GT6s. However, one of the complaints about the Mk1 GT6, in the press who hated it so much, was that the ride was "too soft". Presumably that does mean that the Rotoflex ones are harsher and worse for your back on long journeys.

If you're expecting it to auto-disengage on change from 3rd to 4th, I think that will only work on the TR / big saloon / Stag. That gearbox has the inhibitor switch operated by the actual selector fork and thus switches off mid-shift. The small car box doesn't do that.

Hurrah! Well done.

The Spitfire engine has a spin-on filter from the factory (unlike the six) but it's positioned slightly upwards. If you have a cheap filter (and most of the ones available with the right thread are cheap) it may be missing the non-return flap that the factory expected to be included. The good filters with the non-return are often for a different fitting thread, so a thread adapter is needed. As YS said, search the forum for full discussion. The external oil feed is a device for putting too much oil up top, where it's not needed, and depriving the bottom where it is. Remove it. While it won't have damaged the pump, it may have starved the main and big end bearings. It may also have led to the official rocker oil feed getting gummed up. That's a small hole in the rear left corner of the head gasket - you can't see it until you've taken the head off.