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Ian Foster

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Ian Foster last won the day on February 11 2019

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  • Location
    Dorset
  • Cars Owned
    GT6 Mk2

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  1. Richard I run my Mk2 with just a 12" Spal sucker fan. I have engine bay side valances and front cowl on which I have extended the sides to the limit of what the bonnet structure will allow. My radiator has been re-cored with the 'biggest' modern core the radiator specialist could find. The fan is switched by a sensor fitted into the top tank and comes on when the gauge reads just above half and switches off when just below half. I have a manual override switch which I use if I anticipate a lengthy stop or don't want to arrive at my destination with the fan on (not cool!?!). At idle the fan will just cycle on and off as controlled by the sensor. Some will say that the original fixed fan and shrouding 'as Triumph intended' will be adequate, but as you have suggested there are some factors that might make your/our cars run hotter than back in the day, ie unleaded and now ethanol modified fuel and performance modifications (cams and raised CRs). If you look at the design of the GT6 pipework, Triumph were obviously struggling to get enough coolant flow to the radiator or they wouldn't have added the additional pipe from the thermostat housing to the filler neck. No other Triumph model has this. In terms of your set up, I would agree that the electric fan in front of the radiator is probably not helping, as it is just providing a restriction to the airflow. I would definitely add a front shroud and make it as efficient as possible by extending the sides as much as the local architecture on your Mk3 allows. Your shroud around the fixed fan is a good idea and should really be beneficial in pulling air through the radiator core, but I think it could be finessed by extending it to fully cover the core. There will be guidance online as to the ideal form or shrouds, with recommendations on clearance to the fan blades etc. I have attached a pic of my set up, which works pretty well. Hope this helps. Ian
  2. Thanks Gav That's a useful piece of information. Does it count that the rest of my car is also white! Ian
  3. HG I have my radiator overflow bottle half full when cold and the level rises to just below the shoulder when fully hot. A couple of marks on the bottle allow the level to be monitored. It will be interesting to see whether your catch can has any internal structure to promote condensation of oil vapours and filtration of the expelled air. If the catch can is working properly, what is being drawn back into the engine should be clean and therefore shouldn't make the valves dirty. This is a useful link which gives some technical background and comment on typically available units. I fabricated some 'internals' into a plain (but quite nicely made) 'cheepie' can. The original oil filler cap has a steel wool filter element in it, which I assume is to filter air drawn in to compensate for the slight vacuum created by the PCV. Ian
  4. Hi HeebieGeebie Welcome into the world of classics and congrats on the purchase of a nice looking car. I have a 69 White 19 Mk2, also on Revolutions. Unusual to see a white chassis on a blue car, would be interesting to know why. Advice given so far is spot on and I would also suggest you use the car a bit under various conditions and monitor the situation. Is the engine consuming any coolant. A mark on the overflow bottle would allow you to monitor. An oil cooler without a thermostat might be a contributory factor, but possibly not overly significant at this time of year. Obviously with the triple Webbers, performance was a previous priority and catch cans are not unusual for track focused cars. I don't think you mentioned whether there is any significant accumulation of oil in tank and whether there is any evidence of mayonnaise there. I have a small catch can on my GT6 which the standard PCV breathes (pulls) through. photo attached. It collects a small amount of oil but nothing significant and I think the inlet (and the environment) is all the better for it. I see that there is a tapping on the centre inlet manifold that could be used for the PCV. When I was researching catch cans previously I recall that a naturally vented can does need to have quite large pipework to be effective as others have said. I think a filter on the outlet is also sometimes used. Ian
  5. Canleys show part no 159654 to be common for Spit IV late/1500/GT6mk3 late. Colin's quoted specs for Spit and GT6 suggest there should be differences. Others may be able to confirm from factory WSM (mine doesn't cover late GT6) or other sources. Jeremy, do you know yet what is currently fitted to your car? Confusing isn't it. Ian
  6. Jeremy Shocks can usually be appraised off the car. You can pull and push and decide whether they both feel the same. If there is no obvious play or deterioration in the bushings then this is unlikely to be your problem. Edd China on Wheelers Dealers always gets underneath and gives everything a good waggle with a pry bar. Obviously changing out all the bushes will give you a known starting point and a degree of 'peace of mind'. I have used Superflex polybushes on my Mk2. Based on what you have said so far, I am suspicious of the spring, so if you are dismantling generally, I would remove and strip down the spring to check for any broken elements. I would also check whether it is the correct spec for the GT6 (Mk3) Let us know how you get on. Ian
  7. Jeremy So a swing spring conversion of a Rotaflex rear end.....now this is starting to make sense. Obviously condition of the various parts will be paramount and it is quite possible that the conversion has been done with Spitfire bits rather than GT6. You should be able to confirm the identity of the spring by counting and measuring the leaves. A good second hand replacement from the likes of Chic Doig might be an option if required. I don't know whether the vertical links, hubs and brakes are interchangeable, but you could check bay cross referencing part numbers on Canley Classics' excellent website. One further consideration is the radius arms, which have a different attachment point to the body for Rotaflex/swing spring applications. Has this been addressed in the conversion. Handbrake cable and guides are different as well IIRC. We might try and tempt you into a CV converted Rotaflex set up, which is probably the best of both worlds and will reuse your original features. Ian
  8. Jeremy It does sound as though the rear suspension is moving around more than it should. You haven't said yet what Mk of GT6 you have, but each has its own idiosyncrasies. I don't think it will just be tyre pressures as you are in the ball park (a bit high if anything) in terms of what we are typically using. If the back end is moving around on a straight piece of road, then something is either loose or worn, which is allowing the back end to steer the car. If the rear tracking was seriously out, you might expect the car to steer on and off the throttle. Worn dampers might be another culprit. If everything is is in good condition it may be that the alignment is just 'off' and a proper four wheel alignment on modern equipment would be a good investment and will ensure you get maximum benefit from those new tyres (what brand did you go for BTW ?) My Mk2 really tracks and steers very well for a 50+ year old car and actually deals with some surfaces much better than might be expected. A bit more information on the car and a detailed description of the issues would help. Ian
  9. I'm currently using 28 front/25 rear on my Mk2 with 175/70 R13 tyres. If you think about the weight distribution on the GT6 the bias is definitely towards the front, so higher pressures in the front tyres should result in similar contact area front and rear. I also have a fairly small steering wheel so the slightly higher front pressures reduce steering loads at low speeds. High speed stability and cornering seems fine. Ian
  10. I agree with Nick that the main cause is probably the pump suffering heat soak from the block. The fact that Triumph added an insulating spacer late in production confirms this was an issue. When I experienced it on my GT6, it occurred on a reasonably hot day in traffic and actually stopped the engine running. Removal of the fuel pump cover produced a hiss of released pressure and the fuel could be seen boiling in the base of the pump chamber. Also, for a GT6 at least, the routing of the fuel line from pump to carbs around the front of the head, may also be a contributory cause which may be more significant when a hot car is stationary for a period. I now use a Huco electric suction pump and have routed the fuel delivery pipe around the rear of the engine. I also have an insulating sleeve on the section of fuel line which is proximity to the exhaust manifold and carb heat shields. Has been fine ever since. Ian
  11. Roger If you decide to do this, I have a pair you can have. I had them fitted to my mk2 back in the 80s, mounted on brackets which shared the valance fixings. There is some doubt as to whether they are legal, so you will need to check. Being low down they will also get a bit more dirty than headlamps. If you are just after better driving lights, I would thoroughly recommend Cibie H180s with Philips VisionPlus bulbs, which are the equal if not better than our moderns. I have plumbed these in using a pair of relays fitted under the front edge of the bonnet (details on request). Ian
  12. Indeed. The GT6 poses some unique challenges. Ian
  13. Gadgetman If you are not getting any flow into the expansion bottle and you cannot see any obvious leaks, I would suggest that there must be an airlock somewhere in the system and this is 'absorbing' the expansion. The level in my expansion bottle typically rises and falls by 50mm between fully cold and hot. I have emptied and refilled my system a few times recently, fighting a bottom hose sealing problem (now hopefully sorted) and have developed a procedure that seems to work well for me. I have been meaning to do a write up for Cookie's GT6 register page. Picture attached of my refill/bleed technique, which is a home built version of a commercial fill funnel which are typically £40+. open heater valve (check the valve is actually opening fully) drain out the the fluid using the tap on the bottom of the rad (could be a good time to flush and replace the antifreeze, in which case I would also open/remove the tap on the rear of the block and do all of the poking around thing) make a wide funnel using a juice bottle or similar connected via a short length of clear pipe to rubber bung fitted into the radiator neck. I have used a bung from a wine brewing kit, drilled out to suit. The bung seals into the lower part of the filler neck and stops fluid getting to the overflow pipe. Support the funnel so that it can't topple, I tied it up to the bonnet. (I have actually added a couple of hose clamps to the set up as shown as the pipe softens a bit as it gets hot) refill the system 'very slowly' via the funnel until the level rises into the funnel I do actually have a bleed point in the thermostat housing, which is a remnant of a previous header tank experiment and this helps to bleed air out as you fill. I close this off before I start the car as the the thermostat housing will be pressurised by the pump before the thermostat opens I then start the car and let it come up to temperature, feeling the various hoses and the top and bottom of the radiator to monitor progress repeatedly squeezing the top and bottom hoses helps to move any trapped air once the system is starting to circulate. This takes a while during this process you will see air expelled into the funnel in various burps and glugs and the level will rise and fall. I don't let it get more than about 1/3rd full, drawing off any excess with a large syringe I would typically turn of the engine off at least once to let things cool a little and settle down allow the engine to get fully up to temperature on the gauge, which for me means allowing the electric fan to cycle on and off a couple of times I then let the engine cool and add more fluid into the funnel as required, so there is always a head above the level of the radiator cap. I then open my bleed on the thermostat housing to make sure there isn't any trapped air and then finally reduce the level in the funnel/pipe so I can refit the radiator cap One thing to check to ensure the overflow bottle can function correctly is that the top of the radiator neck is a fair surface suitable for the top seal of the cap to mate onto. A pass with some fine wet and dry on a flat pad will show whether it is flat. If this doesn't seal there won't be sufficient vacuum to pull back expelled fluid from the overflow bottle (article in GT6 Register No. 484 October 2020). Hope this helps Ian
  14. Jeremy A further thought. If your front engine plate has the inner holes, then it is possible that you have the matching (later) bridge installed and a gasket without the holes has been fitted. (do gasket sets include both flavours?) It might be worth trying to penetrate the gasket to confirm. Might save you a lot of effort and negate an unnecessary purchase. Ian
  15. Jeremy I understand that there are two versions of the alloy bridge piece. The later version has the two additional inner holes. My 1969 GT6 came with the original bridge, but I managed to procure one of the later ones (from Mike Papworth if IRRC) and drilled the front engine plate to suit, so I now use all the possible fixings. Photo attached. Hylomar Blue is generally my sealant of choice. Care is needed with the tightening as others have said. I dare say the club's steel version will solve most problems if you choose to follow that route. Ian
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