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Ian Foster

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Ian Foster last won the day on February 11 2019

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    GT6 Mk2

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  1. Ian Foster


    My GT6 lived on a diet of this in the late 70s through to about 1992, by which time it had covered 185K miles without major rebuild. Can't have been bad and the 'greenness' certainly made it feel special. (I now use Valvoline VR1) Ian
  2. I told you I was no electrician. All the different types of relay make my head ache! Ian
  3. Mathew This is a short 'how to' based on what I did. I'm no electrician, but the end result is neat and works well. Headlight relays (All colours are based on GT6 Mk2 wiring loom which uses bullet type connectors. Using tails as described allows the harness to converted back to original, by simply unplugging the additions) Requirements · 2No. standard 4 pin relays · Short lengths of colour coded wiring (if possible these can be salvaged from an old loom) · New fused feed wire (nice and thick) · Bullet and spade connectors (live ones should be insulated type) Process · Split existing harness at connection between loom feeds and head light sub harnesses (UW=main UR=dip) · Mount relays under lip of bonnet (one will be for main one for dip operating separately). · Make up two pairs of short tails for both main and dip with one bullet and one spade to allow original harness to be joined to the relay, using colour coded wire if possible · From the original feed wires, connect to the bullet end of one of the links (using the original double or a new single inline) connector. Spade end goes onto the 86 terminal on relevant relay · Make up short tails (one red one black) to link terminals 30 and terminals 86 on the relays. · Bring a new heavy feed wire (red) from a permanent live (starter solenoid) or battery, via an inline fuse (or from a supplementary fuse box if available) and connect to terminal 30. Use a piggy back type spade connector on this. Add the red link tail between terminal 30 on each relay. · Provide a new earth from terminal 85 to chassis ground using a piggy back type spade connector. (this is just earthing the coil of the relay) Add the black link tail between terminal 85 on each relay. · Connect tails from terminal 87 on each relay to connect into each relevant sub harness. · Check, stand well back…enjoy! Ian
  4. Mathew I forgot to mention previously, that maximum performance (and light switch longevity) will be achieved by adding relays to head lights. I can provide details of my install if you would like. Ian
  5. Mathew I have a mixture of bulbs on my GT6. Headlights are Cibie H180 (7") with Philips Vision Plus halogen bulbs. These are awesome and make night driving a rear pleasure. (better than many moderns I'm sure). I have LEDs in the front sidelights and the instruments. Not yet converted the twin filament rear tail/stop lamps, but I do have an LED high level brake light, which is very bright. I think road users almost expect a H/L light these days, so I think this is an important safety feature. Ian
  6. The Mk2 did not have a centre box as standard. This appeared on the Mk3 with an updated transverse rear box. Ian
  7. Gary I've never seen a NOS bushing kit or even just the spherical bearing, but if anyone finds one grab it. (would be useful as dimensional reference as well) The originals are a type of Nylon. The grey ones are injection-moulded hard plastic (and degrade back to granules), the black ones are a softer material and likewise fall apart. It would be an easy thing to make for someone with access to Delrin bar stock and a ball turning attachment for a lathe. A batch could be commissioned and even possibly stocked as a club spare, as a large numbers of members could benefit. Ian
  8. John This is a fairly straightforward job, but note Pete's advice regarding the potential for sharp edges on the metal cup washer. You may be better re-using your existing one if it is OK condition. The other issue of concern is quality of the spherical bearing. The original would have been a tough nylon and again if yours is original and in good condition I would re-use it rather than fitting the one in the kit. As Pete says this also avoids having to remove the circlip, which is a pain and not Triumphs finest engineering. I have had failures of both the (hard) grey plastic one (a few 1000 miles) and the (less hard) black one (150 miles) and now use a bespoke one made from Delrin. Be careful how much you tighten the bottom pivot bolt. It needs to be tight enough to eliminate play, but not so tight as to bind as this will make the change stiff. I added a further locknut 'just in case'. Oh yes and make sure you install the bolt in the correct direction. Ian
  9. A valid point Nick, but my GT6 vapour locked with a rebuilt original pump. Now replaced with an electric Huco sucker. Ian
  10. I have found VW Mars Red to be a good match. I first used in 2010 on the main car restoration and again recently after having my front shocks rebuilt. Halfords stocked it a 300ml rattle can. Label says to use with red primer. Ian
  11. Fingers crossed then ! BTW I think you are on to something with fan cowl, as many cars had these as original equipment. Possibly a design that covers the whole core could be developed for building in glassfibre. Something I have thought about, but my current 12" SPAL sucker seems to be doing the job at the moment, so no real incentive to invest the time. Ian
  12. Richard Sounds as though you have got it sorted. Just check your levels for a while to ensure there are no airlocks. Running for a good long period with the heater on is probably sensible, but choose a nice cool day!! Are you going to stick with just the engine driven fan and the cowl? Ian
  13. On my GT6 I tried a Revotec fan controller with my SPAL fan, but found that when I set it at a 'switch on' point I was happy with, it would keep the fan running an excessive time. I now use a fixed point switch as per Clive's image, which seems to works well. Ian
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