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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. Absolute F**king Sh*t a lot of what's sold on eBay.😉
  2. I had a couple of duff lots of supposedly R9 hose from a couple of places, none of it lasted more than 6 months. Since then I ONLY use Gates' Barricade hose (although I sourced my own as I'm not a club member)
  3. I start with one of these... If it's not coming off cleanly then it's ABRACS time... Cheers, Sam
  4. I disabled the one on my Dolomite. Not only did it make the lights hard to see in daylight (commented on by the MOT tester) it played havoc with wiring in the towing electrics.
  5. Didn't Frederick Forsythe have a Vitesse with a secret compartment used for smuggling when he was spying for MI6?
  6. Spotted in Scene 1 of Nation Theatre Live's "Twelfth Night" :
  7. I wonder if it's got a sticker on like this? Mine didn't settle, so I ended up applying a lowering block.
  8. Easily my favourite engine design by a mile. It's bat-sh1t-crazy in the best possible way.
  9. I recently got a set of these for my other hobby (repairing arcade games from the 1970s/1980s) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multimeter-KAIWEETS%C2%AE-Alligator-Mini-Hooks-Voltmeter/dp/B07SD3L9HR/ So far I'm very pleased with them. Sam
  10. Front springs are these: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/road-spring-set-front-fast-road-uprated-330lbs-lowered-silicon-chrome-pair-tt4301pr.html My shocks were standard and in good condition, so I just cleaned, painted and reused them: Spacer was from Canley's I think, fits like this: Cheers, Sam
  11. My scruffy old thing sits like this: (Actually back has settled about another 8mm since that photo) That's a new Owen Spring at the back end, which made it sit way too high, so a 1/2" (IIRC) lowring block. Front is standard NOS shocks with shortened stiffer springs and a small spacer to bring the ride back up about 10mm (it was too low without) It handles reasonably and doesn't shake my teeth out on bumps but it's not as finessed as Clive's setup. Front ground clearance around 120mm.... I wouldn't want to go much lower, it's already hard enough getting the jack under the front splitter.
  12. Washing soda in the UK is Sodium carbonate, not detergent.
  13. If the pump works off the car is it possible that you have a perished fuel hose anywhere between the tank and the pump allowing it to draw some air?
  14. For the Spitfire I buy: FERODO FSB346 Delphi LS1032
  15. Contents of my boot depend highly on where I'm going and what sort of driving I'm doing and which car I'm in.... for the Spitfire: Pootling around "locally" - spare tyre, jack, wheel brace, screw drivers, points, length of fuel hose, a few clips, bulbs, jump leads, tow rope and some cable ties. I also have a few lengths of wire with bullets or spade terminals on one end and bare wire on the other incase I need to hotwire lights/ignition etc. If I am (picking an example purely at random) trying to drive all the way round Britain in 48 hours I'd expand the above to include front wheel bearings pre-packed with grease in a bag, big hammer, ratchet and socket set, crow bar. A decent amount of water (5l), gearbox oil (2l) and engine oil (2l). I also have a small "kit" (spanner, short hose with fittings) that can be used to quickly bridge out the oil cooler. For adventures further afield (hooning across Europe for example) I add parts that I wouldn't necessarily be able to fit myself at the roadside but wouldn't want to wait a week for them to be shipped from the uk - a drive shaft with bearings etc ready to fit and a gasket set (taped to the inside of the boot lid)
  16. Yeah, I wasn't really saying the freelander ones were suitable for re-use, more trying (clearly badly!) to say that if it's ok for moderns to have plastic fuel pipes from new I don't see any reason why we couldn't replace steel with plastic on our old motors if we felt like it.
  17. I might be halucinating due to being confined indoors for months on end, but I seem to remember the MK1 Freelanders had rigid plastic pipes for the underbody sections of the fuel systems.
  18. Never had much luck with stud extractors - good luck! I tend to stick an oversize nut over the "stump" and them mig-weld them together and cross my fingers the nut will unscrew it.
  19. I'd start by taking the starter off and peering through the hole at the ring gear and then turning the engine by hand.... just to confirm before pulling the gearbox out?
  20. Oh yeah.... also watch out for the gearbox mounting as it comes out if it's a non-overdrive box: http://yorkshire-spitfire.blogspot.com/2013/03/gearbox-swap-part-2-its-out.html?q=gearbox+out
  21. Take the seat squabs out, they are reasonably easy to remove and you don't want to damage them. It will come out with the tunnel removed, it just takes a little bit of fiddling to get it out under the dash. Taking the propshaft off completely is more work, but makes getting the box out easier (IMHO) It's possible to lift it out on your own, but 2 people makes it comfortable. Wooden block and a jack under the back of the sump/engine backplate to carry the back of the engine once the 'box is out - as the box usually carries the back of the engine. Depending on equipment/facilities/help available it's a toss-up whether pulling the engine or pulling the gearbox is quickest IMHO.
  22. In my opinion nothing but a good gasket for a composite gasket, they often have a "built in" adhesive/sealant. The only time I ever apply anything to a head gasket during fitting is if it's a metal gasket, in which case the thinnest smear of grease just to help it move and bed with the head/block.
  23. Not sure about application, but I'm using Tiger Seal on the Dolomite, based on recommendations from people with experience.
  24. Get out on the open road and enjoy, and don't be afraid to give it some right boot! 😉 (Within local road traffic laws and noise polution regs obviously)
  25. You are more than welcome Conor! That heater box is looking a lot better! I have the Dolomite one to do - I think the core is stuffed up, but I'm rather dreading removing the entire interior just to get to it!
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