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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. Anyone know a RAL/Leyland paint code for the silver used on the original steel wheels on a 1978 Spitfire? I've just acquired a set, but the powder coating has some nicks/stains/rust marks - so I'm considering stripping them and repainting/coating. Cheers, Sam
  2. How's the volume adjustment on the headless bluetooth set-up, that's the only thing that's made me wary about going that route in the Dolomite - I''m still on the low-quality "retro style" bluetooth unit, but can't say I'm impressed with it. (It works, but volume and audio quality are poor to say the least)
  3. Exactly what I do with my Spitfire 1500, but with my ride height at the front I'd have no chance getting up the ramp without tearing the front air damn off.
  4. Just a quick note... the "final tighten when loaded and down on the ground" process is LESS critical if you fit poly-bushes. The metal centre in a poly-bush can rotate relative to the bush and the bush can move relative to the outer casing it's in - neither of which happens with OE metalastic bushes.
  5. If you decide NOT to go for knock on/off alloys, but the standard type, I may have a decent set of minilites going spare in a few months time - I've decided to go back to the original style steels.
  6. Give the brake pedal a good press... then try spinning the drum again. It might just be that the shoes need to settle into place.
  7. If it's a 1500 Spitfire you adjust the handbrake in 2 ways - the "gross" adjustment is at the hand brake leaver, the balance/finer adjust is at the drums I think the bit you've unfastened is where the return spring attaches? You need to take the clevis pin out and rotate the U shaped metal bit to run it up/down the threaded part in the picture. If everything is ok with the cables disconnected then it's just the faff or adjustment that you need to endure!
  8. If it's not a problem with the adjuster... send them back and buy ferrodo or somebody like that. Never had any issues with having to file/fettle shoes from a reliable brand.
  9. yorkshire_spam

    Head

    I've take to using these to clean block/head/mating faces:
  10. I have a car with dot 5 and one with dot 4. The only reason 1 has dot 5 is it's what a previous owner put in and I can't be bothered with the faff of flushing it to go back to dot 4. Unless I wanted a concours car with no risk to the paint I'd never bother with either variety of 5.
  11. An operation? Yes a wallet-ectomy! (Nah as I said, compare a complete new set of uprights trunions bushes etc. against this and it seems a lot more reasonable) https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=trunnionless-front-suspension-kit I converted to it before a long European run a few years ago just for piece of mind When I did have trunions I used: This grease : https://bearmach.com/swivel-housing-grease-one-shot-sachet-suitable-for-defender-discovery-1-and-range-rover-classic-vehicles-stc3435?glCountry=GB&glCurrency=GBP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw4aQuvLR6QIVmK3tCh2lfQKhEAQYASABEgLBJPD_BwE In one of these:
  12. If you want to avoid the endless wars, and spend a mountain of money (actually I think they are reasonable) go trunionless. When I had trunions I found a 3rd option. Originally Land Rover specified EP90 in their swivel housings, but they leaked. So a special grease was developed to replace the ep90 - I used to use that in Triumph trunions before I got rid of them. No leaks like EP90, but better suited than standard grease.
  13. Sh*t happens, I topped my radiator up with 2 litres of degreaser the other day instead of nice clean water! doh!
  14. yorkshire_spam

    Head

    Have a word with Peter Burgess? http://www.peter-burgess.com/page12.html That's where the head for my recent build came from.
  15. Don't think about the money spent on parts... think about the money saved on garage labour! 🙂
  16. I'm neither pro nor anti... but my own experience of having them on my 2 1/4 Petrol 88" SIII 1) Every now and again they need locking up and some running in that state to keep things in the front axle turning and lubricated. No big deal, but it needs to be part of the maintenance routine. 2) They play merry hell if they are unlocked when you snap a rear halfshaft... no drive, no handbrake and no way out... I speak from personal experience! 3) I found they made a small but measurable difference to MPG, but an OD made more difference. There are cheaper "lash-up" ways to achieve the same thing if you aren't bothered about having 4wd at all. I'd love a SWB SII or SIIa truck cab as a "fun motor" but I don't have the money/space/time. 🙂
  17. I tend to fit them with the screws slightly loose, then snap them closed from fully open (let the return spring do it's thing) THEN tighten the screws if I can't see any gaps. Sometimes a repeat fully open, snap shut is needed to "shake" them into place. If the disc is tight in the spindle a "jiggle" of the spindle might be needed. Edit note added: Above procedure with the idle control screw backed well off!
  18. It's a good point Doug! I'd happily recommend Falken Sincera SN832 Ecorun tyres, it's what I have on the Spitfire - good grip and very reasonably priced. (I paid 60 quid each fitted, balanced, old tyres disposed and mobile fitting!)
  19. Both yes... and no. It depends on how far you go and how careful you are. It could also be a false economy unless you enjoy doing the job! A rebuild kit is not a lot cheaper than a replacement caliper. I'd start with seeing if the bleed screws and fitting come out cleanly once the caliper (and cylinder for that matter) is off the car. If the bleed screw or fitting snaps you are probably heading into more trouble than it's worth territory (drilling and cleaning the threads is not easy!) On the other hand if the come out cleanly then it might be worth refurbing them yourself. If you get a refurb kit make sure it has "gallery seals" included, as far as I am concerned replacing seals and pistons is more hassle than it's worth unless you split the caliper, if you do that new gallery seals are essential.
  20. ^ what Nick said. I had to remove the NSF caliper from my Spitfire and drill out the bleed screw last week - what a pain in the backside! Then ran a tap down the thread to clear it. 'orrible object. It doesn't sound "standard". It's well worth removing the rear wheel cylinders stripping them apart, inspet the bore and either replace or (if you can source good quality parts) re-seal them. It's not hard. As Nick says - standard brakes should be fine, mine are stock apart from being well maintained and having M1144 pads and the brake out perform the grip.
  21. Have you already bought the parts? If not it's worth considering the Canley trunionless conversion.
  22. Are the engine mounts both in the same place? Not one in front of the turret and one behind? Are the mounts themselves the same? A small angle at the front could lead to a large offset at the back.
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