yorkshire_spam
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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam
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Before chucking the pump... do you have a fuel can and a length of spare hose? Just to test it off the motor by operating the level yourself. I'm deeply suspicious of braided fuel hose and what's hiding under the braiding. I think you are probably right, but before committing to a spend on a pump it might be worth a check.
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I can't really see clearly on the photos - do you fuel hoses have over-braiding? Are they in good condition underneath? I've had dry carbs/fuel lines due to a perished hose allowing the pump to pump air instead of fuel.
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Easily done, I spent half an hour thinking 90+10 = 110 on my timing gauge!.... NOPE, go past 90 and then 20 more! Not 10.
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How did you get tdc? I've just done this a few weeks ago on my engine build - I found using a piston stop and "split the difference" a lot better than trying to find the middle of the "no movement" period for TDC. I set mine by max lift on inlet, then spec sheet had a lift at TDC that I checked against. Final check was that as the cam was symetric I could check for equal lift on inlet and exhaust at TDC.
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Alls well that ends well!
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No, what I'm saying is that on my spare points and the spare points in the dizzy I have the points, condensor and black wire to the coil are all effectively 1 part. See picture here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1888132959?iid=310262031938&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=310262031938&targetid=878161781224&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046671&poi=&campaignid=9437867654&mkgroupid=94751713814&rlsatarget=pla-878161781224&abcId=1139366&merchantid=7408344&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7tWMn56z6QIVT-3tCh2TSAnQEAQYAiABEgLrQvD_BwE They are all 1, with crimped joints - so I'm not sure why your new points didn't come with the black wire already attached?
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I've just checked my spare points and spare dizzy.... on both the black wire to the coil is an integral part of the points/condensor assembly - not a separate connection.
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If it doesn't work give me a shout and I'll dig a servicable CD150 body out of my box of spares for you.
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Spitfire - models/years with twin or single line systems
yorkshire_spam replied to yorkshire_spam's topic in Braking System
I know that @wimpus at one time seemed to have almost endless problems with the PDWA on his Euro-spec Spitfire 1500. -
These little b*ggers are strong! I've even sealed them in the end of plastic tubes before now to go fishing down inside timing covers and places like that for lost washers.
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Spitfire - models/years with twin or single line systems
yorkshire_spam replied to yorkshire_spam's topic in Braking System
Great stuff, thanks Colin. It must have been a pretty late introduction then. My Spitfire 1500 is a late 1977 build date, FH11nnnn and has single lines, sound like according to that they were factory standard. -
Which Spitfires have single line brake systems and which have twin with the evil PDWA?
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I'd love a T2 VW, but sadly so many other people would too - so out of my price bracket. I run a Spitfire 1500 for fun and a Dolomite as my daily driver and for classic car events where the kids can be bothered to come along. If the kids give up coming to stuff I'd consider changing the Dolomite for a Vitesse though.
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Welcome! If I had space for a third Triumph I'd be looking for a fixed head Vitesse too!
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On the subject of magnets... I have a pack of roughly 8mm diameter circular rare earth magnets in the garage (stuck to the side to the tool box)... Very handy for taping to a "stick" to retrieve dropped nuts/bolts/washers... BUT also they fit really nicely inside my 3/8" drive sockets - when working in tight spaces I can put the magnet and bolt into the socket, use the socket/extension to manouver the bolt into place and get it started without it dropping out and falling on the floor 1000s of times. (I'm thinking things like re-ftting the master cylinder brackets and stuff like that!)
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We all start somewhere! Hats off to you for the effort you've put in so far! Can't wait to see it back on the road! 😉
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Good call Pete, the Dissy Doctor ones are the ones I use.
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In my opinion there's no such place as best "to order a decent set of points from" - the modern replacements all seem rubbish to me, so I went for a points replacement electronic. If you want to get it started without waiting for replacements - clean the points faces with some fine wet-n-dry paper.
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Cor, I wish I had the time/money/space!
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Since the OP hasn't been back I wonder if we've scared him off?
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The manifold on that Commer is perfect for converting Series 2/3 Land Rover's to the 4.203 engine if I remember correctly. 4.203 wasn't a great engine by modern standards, but it was a damned sight better than what Land Rover were offering at the time!
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My real name? It's close. Sam. But Spam is what my mum nicknamed me as a kid.
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Bloody awful isn't it? But I've pondered it long and hard and can't see any real improvements unless you want to end up with something that looks like this: (Source: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1522163&i=260 Image (C) "davepoth" one assumes)
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What Clive said... but, you might be better looking at finding a rolling road and tuning shop where they know their way around SU carbs? HS4 on a 1300 is a slightly "Frankenstein" set-up so they would probably be able to grind carb needles to suit the engine/carb combo better than you could choose off-the-shelf needles based on AFR readings?
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That's brill Colin. I have a 1/4" square "ring" spanner for the adjusters, but it never gives me confidence on the fit like your arrangement would! I'm nicking that idea!
