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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. Yes, not enough clearance around the inner wing to get the head off with the studs in place. (Even with the exhaust manifold removed) Pictures:
  2. Only 1 small "home made" element to this lot... it's my kit of tools for getting the head studs out on a Dolomite 1850 engine... The important bit is the 7/16" UNC nuts, one of them has the head ground down from 11/16" AF to 5/8" AF. That allows the 11/16" deep socket to go over it when "double nutting" apply torque to JUST the lower nut. This is important because on the 1850 Dolomite there isn't enough room around the head studs to get spanners in to double nut in the usual way. The ground down nut is a bit sacrificial, they only tend to last 3 or 4 studs, but they get the job done!
  3. Cor, you are not wrong! I just got a gallon of VR1 for £32 including delivery, Opie want £47 for the Millers oil and then another £5 for delivery!?! I might save the switch to Millers for next time I'm planning a trip up some Alpine passes and just run VR1 for now 🙂
  4. Very interesting Clive, I might have to give Millers a try at my next oil change. Especially as I drive past the place on my way home from work! (when I'm not on lock down WFH)
  5. I stick to 20w50 or 20w60 in the Spitfire, Valvoline VR1 or Penrite Classic Light. If the car is getting "pottering" motoring, I'm less fussy, but I think the V1/Penrite lasts better when the car is being thrashed through alpine passes.
  6. I still use at least one box spanner.... But that's only because I don't have a 52mm socket/spanner for doing Land Rover hub nuts.
  7. Peter James insurance with recovery included. Used it a couple of times and on both occasions it was the AA who turned out to recover me. I priced up breakdown cover and the AA wanted more per year than the insurance with the cover included!
  8. I tend to go out of my way to buy ferrodo or similar branded shoes for the back, generally only a few quid more in my experience. But as you say, I'm probably throwing that money away as the rear brake effort is minimal.
  9. Quality products and very helpful people - I'm a fan of Newman Cams, I've just put a PH2 in my newly built 1500 for my Spitfire.
  10. I'm not sure about these particular engines, but most of the ones I've worked on would at least start if the timing was within a country mile. Might not idle or run nicely but would at least start. If the rotor arm is pointing at "about where no.1 plug lead connects" when it's at somewhere just before TDC on the compression stroke of #1 then that will probably be close enough. After cranking are there signs of fuel in the carb throats? If you take #1 plug out and turn it over with the plug connected and resting on something well earthed does it spark? I don't want to teach the sucking of eggs... but all your plug leads are in the right place and connected to the right plugs?
  11. Bit late to the party here, addressing the original question "How good should our brakes be?".... The brakes on the Dolomite by default are utterly woeful. With an automatic in winter on heavy choke you have a job just preventing the car from moving off on it's own. But with the TrackerJack conversion they are GREAT! But that's a bit of a diversion/distraction. My Spitfire on the other hand... when I bought it the MOT was 2 days old and when I drove it home the brakes were lethal. Seals in the master cylinder were shot. So I rebuilt using a branded rebuild kit (At the time in 2012 it cost me about 20 quid for what I think was a lockheed kit from the local motor factors) Since then I've put on new standard solid discs and Mintex 1144 pads in the standard calipers. The pressure required on the pedal is more than you'd expect if you compare with a modern, but certainly not excessive. Stopping power is limited by road surface, conditions and tyres - not the brakes anymore. On a good surface with good brand tyres if you apply the brake right you can make the passenger headbutt the windscreen. On mountain passes I tend to drive careful, but never had fade issues on the long descents. Not sure about bigger heavier cars, but well fettled brakes with mintex 1144 pads are more than up to the job in something with the mass of a Spitfire. My MOT tester always comments on how good they are for the size of the car.
  12. Nice pit Paul, if I get any spare money and time I'd like to put one in my garage.
  13. OOOOH thread drift alert! At about 210m above sea level and with no water courses/rivers anywhere nearby I think my garage might be ok for a while. 🙂 You get a plenty of garage for your money in this area!
  14. Thanks Colin, I appreciate you going to the effort of looking. I had a bit of a shufty round the inter-web thing and I think RobSport might have a second hand one in stock, I'll give them a try and if not I'll give the eBay Ford jobby you found a go. By a bizarre coincidence I found a Ford Escort QH fuel pump (new in bag+box) in the garage last night when I was searching for something else. I've never bought one, so I wonder where it came from?!
  15. AES as @Anglefire says, but also vehicle wiring products, 12volt planet, autosparks. Thin wall is good stuff, allows you to match the outer diameter of the original but at a MUCH higher current rating. In terms of spec, if you pick the thin wall that's the same OD as whats there I'd bet it's over-spec with a good safety margin UNLESS you are planning to up rate headlamps etc. Really strictly speaking you should calc the current and then pick something well above that.
  16. Used in a wedding in 2012? https://nikkibowling.com/lynsey-and-matt-st-stephens-church-and-the-parsonage/
  17. Not to worry Clive, 2015 was our first 10CR too. I should have been clearer that the photo was much later than when I moved the plate.
  18. 2017 Clive, Raider's car but Bryce and his friend driving. 😞 Somewhere near the top of the San Bernadino pass IIRC. He didn't make it to the mountains in 2015 after the Hogs of the Czech Republic incident.
  19. So it's recorded here in case anyone else needs it...
  20. Thanks Chaps! Now all I need to do is find somebody who wants it... it's no use to me!
  21. I can actually buy (delivered) a lump of aluminium alloy plate the right thickness and size to make one for about 1/3rd the cost of a new spacer from certain "Classic Car Specialists"
  22. Thanks Colin, I appreciate you having a check. It's annoying, I'd rather stick with the later type if I can as my (known working) current pump AND my spare are both the later type needing the spacer.
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