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Bob Horner

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Bob Horner last won the day on April 20 2020

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  • Location
    North Yorkshire
  • Cars Owned
    Tr4, Mk3 spitfire, mk2 GT6

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  1. Well, spoke to Fitchetts. Because I went for a new CWP they agreed to fit a 3.63 and swap the case over to a 6 stud. Thus same price as a recon new cwp diff and will get the surcharge back on my 3.89. Compared to others, Fitchetts are a good price even for a new CWP and were very helpful. Bob
  2. Gt6 mk2 diff whining a fair bit and there seems to be fair bit of play when taking up drive causing a clunk (worse when warm). Thinking of a rebuild. Also thinking of changing it from 3.89 to 3.63. So, is it Mike Papworth or any other recommends? I’m based in North York’s but don’t think there is anyone nearby unless someone knows otherwise? Any thoughts on the above gratefully received. Bob
  3. Hopefully you’ve sorted it. However I had a similar issue, assumed electrical but in the end turned out to be restricted fuel flow near tank. Fine in normal driving but on a motorway with sustained revs the float chambers couldn’t fill fast enough and it was running out if fuel. Seemed like an intermittent electrical issue as went away off motorway but wasn’t. Tank out and some replacement hoses. Fuel filters all looked fine - no bits and all full by the time I’d got back to the garage after a few runs when thought it was sorted. Bob
  4. Well on a 2000 mile RBRR in a Mk3 spit, the original distributor failed and a swap with a cheapie Ebay electronic one saved the day! I agree never carry any spares around home but on a long trek it can make all the difference but agree the things you want to change at the roadside are pretty limited. Interestingly I got the old distributor rebuilt with points and it failed again - close to home this time - wife delivered the cheapie Ebay one and its still going well! I guess I'll take a new cap with the not quite ok noted above Accuspark and mark up the cylinders on it so I plug in the right leads at night..and in the rain....!! Bob
  5. Hi all Thoughts please. I have an Accuspark distributor fitted to my GT6 and it works well. I’ve got one on my TR4 and it’s lasted well also. However, bought a spare for the GT6 as I’m doing the RBRR with Club triumph and have had to swap a distributor (old points one) on the event once before. Anyway, thought I’d do a trial fit with clamp and all so could quickly swap and the timing would be spot on. However on fitting I couldn’t get it timed properly because to get number 1 cylinder lined up I needed twist It so far clockwise the vacuum unit fouled the block. Looking at it realised that the key way in the distributor was not aligned with the end of the rotor arm. In my experience all my triumph engines have the rotor arm pointing at about 8 o clock for number 1 cylinder in line with the slot in the drive gear but on this distributor it was just beyond 9 o clock when slotted home in the drive which was at 8.00 o clock. I queried this with Accuspark and they said it’s quite common for them to be out of alignment and I should move all the plug leads around one so number 1 was at 9.00 o clock etc. This would work of course but it seems bit of a bodge and somewhat confusing compared to all the other distributors I’ve seen. The Accuspark already fitted has no 1 at 8 o clock. I was going to reply and tell him I wanted to send it back but just wondered if he got difficult, whether I was being awkward myself? welcome any thoughts Bob
  6. Just a quick post hopefully to help someone who is fitting a moto lita wheel. I had real problems fitting it without the horn sounding either constantly or intermittently as the metal wheel earthed against the horn ring. The trick for me was to make sure the sliding joint that moves the steering wheel backwards and forwards was pulled far enough back by releasing the lock nut and loosening the Allen bolt so when the wheel was tightened on to the splines and taper there was enough clearance to stop the wheel contacting the horn ring. Also, if you remove the wheel and, like me tap the inner column with a drift to break the taper, don’t forget that doing so will probably push the inner column inwards and reduce the afore mentioned clearance and cause the horn to sound again. Took me a while to work that one out! You also you may find positioning the outer column nearer the dashboard helps get a bit more clearance. Hopefully may help someone work all this out quicker than me!! Bob
  7. Cheap borrowed money and idiots who don’t know enough buying them means a high price is always possible. That’s absolutely shocking panel fit and would cost a few grand to sort at a specialist. Dread to think how naff the interior will be. Still, good car to get you to a Michelin starred restaurant! At least it means you’ll be used to paying for pretentious overpriced crap! Bob
  8. One of the car's radius arm brackets had sheared on my rotoflex GT6. I supposed I could simply remove the existing bracket and fit new. As many with more experience will know, that was a vain hope. I therefore took off the hubs and in doing so, realised the rotoflexes were a bit cracked so decided to go the whole hog and rebuild the lot. Before I did this, I looked in depth at all the posts on here and elsewhere and they were very helpful and, when you get your head around how it all works and fit's together, its a logical, if slightly time consuming job. The purpose of this post is to point out a few issues I had and perhaps fill in some of the gaps in what I could find on the web. Getting the drive shafts off is pretty straightforward but you really need a spring lifter to do this. One man job. You also need to jack up the hub as well as the spring to get the spring eye bolt out easily - there is a sweet spot of alignment that a combination of the two produces it seems. I used a decent sized trolley jack under the lift and a smaller trolley under the hub/vertical link (see later for reassembly) Getting out the radius arm bracket bolt than runs through the hub is impossible without a press (or it was for me and countless others). I ended up giving them to my friendly local garage and it took him 5 mins and cost a bottle of wine. He told me that he put it on a press, applied pressure then heated it and they slipped out. I got 2 new brackets from what used to be Jigsaw on Ebay. The wishbone bolts came out fine and replaced with polybush from Paddocks. Fitted ok but supplied with 4 washers. I assumed one at each end and one at either inside end of the bushes but could not get those two in. In the end loft them off. Long bolts all treated to copper slip. Rotoflexes genuine from Robush - there is a thread on here about that. One of the reasons I rebuilt the hubs was because I didn't trust the previous restorer. It turned out that on one drive shaft the threaded end had been shortened and thus the nut was no where near fully engaged (presumably stripped it trying to put it together without a press). I had to buy a replacement near side vertical link (completely mullered - as was the wishbone - presumably trying to get it off). There was only a spacer and no shims on the shaft so not certain end float was correct. One of the hubs had seen better days so bit bullet and bought 2 new ones from Canleys (far cheaper than Rimmers). I pulled the hubs with the TSSC hub puller. I'm glad I had one as not sure if a normal three legged putter would have done it (a lot of people say it should but I was glad of the heftier item). The new hubs were far tighter on the shaft than the old ones. I found it impossible to get them fully on the shaft without using a press (only needed a couple of tons). Doing the job without a press would have been impossible for me and it certainly helps as you need to put it together and pull it apart a few times. It also means you don't knacker the driveshaft threads by using them to pull everything into place. In terms of shimming the hub, there is loads of helpful stuff on line. I used the Canley method but I found it hard getting an accurate measure using feelers. It looked like I didn't need spacers but on assembly and checking against the back plate with a dial gauge I ended up with a spacer. I found it confusing the talk of inner/ outer races and bearing cups etc. However, basically you need to fit the cups and bearings and then press through the hub to check the measurement. One point to remember is not to mix up your backplates! I did and had to take is all apart. Doh! The Canley end nuts and washers were a good investment (see another thread on this). Putting it back together was ok once I lined up the two jacks as noted above. At one point the angles are just right so you can slip a bolt through (a tap or two on the top of the link may be needed to get it all aligned) No brute force needed but I did need to get the car low enough a the rear to get enough lift on the spring (I have a hydraulic ramp). The other option would be to stand the spring lifting trolley jack on blocks. All in all, not as bad a job as is made out in my experience. The trickiest bit is the shimming and I would invest in a press if I didn't have one. Bob
  9. Bob Horner


    I have no expertise but a chemist client of mine thought that electricity was a dead end but synthetic petrol would be the future with the nasty greenhouse heating by products removed. Not really sure what she meant but she was pretty bullish about it. Perhaps someone on here has more expertise in this area? What I do find ridiculous Is that a £100k plus Range Rover that can do 0-60 sub 6 seconds and weighs in at a couple of tons, is full packed with plastics and unnecessary electrical items etc etc, gets massive tax breaks (100% up front capital allowances and a 1-2% benefit in kind for the highly paid director who drives it) and in carbon footprint print terms, it must be far far worse than a 1960s mini.. yes electric is the future……. Bob
  10. Thanks Pete. I suppose a lot of club members may buy from the usual suspects and get non original parts unwittingly and then end up it costing a fortune replacing them again in short order. Especially painful (financially at least!) if paying someone else to do it! Bob
  11. Pete - just read your comment above re Robush - I googled them before reading this thread- should have read your post first!! Bob
  12. I wonder if the club ought to stock them - I bet they could get a better deal if buying in quantity? There's a lot of people swapped to CV joints but also an awful lot of people who presumably still have the old rotoflex system. One triumph specialist I know believes that the CV joints cause other issues re diffs etc because the rotoflex has a cushioning effect. Don't know if there is any truth in that. Any one any thoughts on that? Bob
  13. Just thought I'd add my experiences to this. I've had to replace the radius arm brackets on my GT6 which necessitated removing the driveshaft and vertical link from the car so decided to go the whole hog and replace the slightly cracked donuts and rebush everything plus new timken bearings (rimmers). Decided to stay original so sourced some proper metalastik units. Demon Tweeks have them at £167.20 each (incl VAT)!! However, looked online and a firm called Robush Ltd https://www.robush.com/products/rotoflex-coupling/ do them. They were very helpful - cost £89.25 plus vat each (£107.10 incl VAT) plus £12.50 for next day delivery (in stock whereas Demon Tweeks say will get stock in within 7 days). just like to let people know if they are looking. You need to call or email as they don't sell online. You need to quote the part number which is 21/979/1 (there is a link to the original catalogue. Saves you £120 over the Demon Tweeks items (and probably only costs you £100 over the repro rubbish!) Bob
  14. Hi Thanks for responses. I get the same message as Andy but I can download from ‘The Club’ section fine . Used to work from the forum - perhaps link not uprated for 2021 catalogue? Bob
  15. It may be just me, but I used to be able to download the most recent shop catalogue and model specs but I just get an error message these days. Is it something that needs fixing? Regards Bob
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