Bob Horner
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Bob Horner last won the day on April 20 2020
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About Bob Horner
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Location
North Yorkshire
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Cars Owned
Tr4, Mk3 spitfire, mk2 GT6
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I've got standard on my GT6 and spitfire and never had an issue. However, recently replaced one on my TR4 (the old one packed up) and at the time couldn't get hold of an original one in time so fitted a new hi torque one from The TR Shop (cost not much different). Must say impressed with how easily and quickly it spins. Had an issue where needed to spin the engine over repeatedly quite a few times (distributor fault) and I reckon with the old one the battery would have given up. Although that may have been because the old one was worn. Bob
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Thanks for the replies. I’m setting off on 30th June so just in next month! I think it runs from 30th June to 3 July. The campsite opens on the 30th and was planning to leave Hull on 29th to arrive next day but delayed a day due to son’s graduation - how inconsiderate of him……! Bob
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I'm off to Le Mans with the Club next month and I've got an old set of lucas yellow plastic headlamp beam converters. Does anyone know if these are still legal in France (and the Netherlands/ Belgium as well given I'm landing in Rotterdam)? Bob
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Adjustable spring pan dampers
Bob Horner replied to Bob Horner's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Thanks chaps. Glad it was not just me being confused. I have some c spanners but not a lot of room to adjust on the car. Bob -
I’ve bought new springs (uprated) and gaz height adjustable shocks for the front of my mk3 spitfire - all from the club shop. I set the pans at the same length as my existing shocks but the ride height is too high (previously it was a bit low). Anyway, which way do I screw the adjustable pans to lower ride height - up or down?. Can’t get my head around this and don’t want to get it wrong and have to take it all apart again! Bob
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Same experience here. Excellent.
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Ok, looking for thoughts. I have a mk3 spit, a TR4 and a Gt6. I have done a bit of regularity rallying in the TR4 and it’s a great and tough car to use. However, feeling that i want to tart up the TR4 and thus thinking of another car to rally in. I considered the spitfire and I think it would be fun and good in tight tests but perhaps not as comfortable,or easy on the regularities? I don’t really want to trash the Gt6. So looking at another triumph if the spitfire is discounted. Perhaps a mk2 vitesse saloon ( rotoflex robust enough)? Quite fancy a 1300 fwd (would it be fast enough - a tc with a tuned engine?). Otherwise a tr7 - Fhc or drop top - fit a sprint engine ? Dolomite sprint - a bit pricy these days? Or perhaps a big saloon? I’d welcome anyone who has practical experience - or indeed anyone who has a view! Bob
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One upgrade I do have on all my cars (Spit, GT6 and TR4) is a better valve - the taxi type - the original valves seem unreliable over complex and not very adjustable (well, at least the repro ones are). Bob
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Usually best to get the standard stuff working properly. I have found often upgrades are seen as better because they are replacing worn parts that aren't functioning as originally intended. It may appear more time consuming initially but usually its the best bet. I have a TR4 and suppliers sell upgraded heaters for a load of money. My standard heater and one speed fan keep my soft top TR4 as toasty as any one could possibly want in the coldest of weather.
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I think it went for £36 k plus premium -£40k. I had a look at it. Looked good but I wouldn’t have guessed it was any better than other nice ones I have seen. The doors didn’t shut properly. I can’t understand why people pay so much for classic cars. Surely they dare not drive them . In my limited experience ones that look good drive like pigs and vice versa. Non standard seats and I prefer the originals. Just can’t see why if cost £97k to restore. Not sure if non standard engine but did have a full roll cage. In a non rally /race car not sure if that’s a good thing or not. Bob
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Metalastik Rotoflex Couplings Still available?
Bob Horner replied to avivalasvegas's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
So about 17% increase but still a lot less than Demon Tweeks but a biggish hike. Prices are increasing for all sorts of things significantly. Hard to keep up. -
Metalastik Rotoflex Couplings Still available?
Bob Horner replied to avivalasvegas's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Is that £126 plus Vat or inclusive ? Bob -
Metalastik Rotoflex Couplings Still available?
Bob Horner replied to avivalasvegas's topic in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
No problem. Happy to help. Just to say the rebuilt hubs and rotoflexes are all good. In fact, as well as a bit of running in mileage, I did the 2000 non stop Round Britain Reliability Run shortly after and everything performed faultlessly. Having worked on the rear end of the Gt6 3 times now (swapping a second hand diff, rebuilding hubs and rotoflexes and, just recently, fitting a recon 3.63 diff to replace the first one I fitted, ) it’s got easier each time. The last diff change was pretty painless now I know what I’m doing and I did it on my own. Just need a spring lifter and a couple of jacks properly placed. Shimming the hub is the trickiest part of working on these but you have to do that with a CV conversion. One triumph specialist I know swears that rotoflexes help to preserve the slightly under spec triumph diff. Don’t know if that’s borne out in reality but given how rotoflexes work it seems to make sense. Bob -
I’ve taken out the gearbox on a GT6 through the car and also done the same for a TR4. Both were a bit of a PITA. I’ve also done an engine out with a spitfire. However, the second time I did in car it was far easier. After grunting, sweating and swearing the first time you realise there is a knack that makes things much more bearable. I found lining it up to put it back was difficult. All down to relative movement between engine and box - there is a sweet spot when both a jacked up in optimum positions. Any old fashioned decent mechanic will be able to do any job on old cars. They are generally a thoughtful, resourceful and sensible bunch - unlike some modern fitters in the main dealer network. Just recently swapped out a small chassis diff - third time I’ve done this job. This time used a ramp and a transmission jack and took 15 mins to line up and bolt in. I knew the angle of approach best suited for it all to go back. Previously an afternoon of swearing! Problem I find is that often I forget how to do something that I worked out how to do years earlier! That’s where the professionals win. The diff swap was a rotoflex GT6 on which I’d recently rebuilt and shimmed everything.. Having done it recently it’s no pain at all to put the rear end back together using 2 jacks to line up the bolts through the spring with the hub. You’ll see loads of posts saying what a nightmare this can be but that’s because most only do it once or after a gap of many years - or perhaps they have just not hit on the knack.. That’s why whenever I attempt a job, I search the forum for people’s experiences. However, sometimes it leads you astray or puts you off unnecessarily - but rarely! Bob
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I had a vibration in my Gt6 which made it horrible. Making sure the gearbox mounts were tight helped but there was still a vibration. Had the prop checked and balanced and completely disappeared. There is also the issue of changing the way the prop is bolted up - there are two possible orientations front and rear. Bob