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Bob Horner

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Everything posted by Bob Horner

  1. Well, spoke to Fitchetts. Because I went for a new CWP they agreed to fit a 3.63 and swap the case over to a 6 stud. Thus same price as a recon new cwp diff and will get the surcharge back on my 3.89. Compared to others, Fitchetts are a good price even for a new CWP and were very helpful. Bob
  2. Gt6 mk2 diff whining a fair bit and there seems to be fair bit of play when taking up drive causing a clunk (worse when warm). Thinking of a rebuild. Also thinking of changing it from 3.89 to 3.63. So, is it Mike Papworth or any other recommends? I’m based in North York’s but don’t think there is anyone nearby unless someone knows otherwise? Any thoughts on the above gratefully received. Bob
  3. Hopefully you’ve sorted it. However I had a similar issue, assumed electrical but in the end turned out to be restricted fuel flow near tank. Fine in normal driving but on a motorway with sustained revs the float chambers couldn’t fill fast enough and it was running out if fuel. Seemed like an intermittent electrical issue as went away off motorway but wasn’t. Tank out and some replacement hoses. Fuel filters all looked fine - no bits and all full by the time I’d got back to the garage after a few runs when thought it was sorted. Bob
  4. Well on a 2000 mile RBRR in a Mk3 spit, the original distributor failed and a swap with a cheapie Ebay electronic one saved the day! I agree never carry any spares around home but on a long trek it can make all the difference but agree the things you want to change at the roadside are pretty limited. Interestingly I got the old distributor rebuilt with points and it failed again - close to home this time - wife delivered the cheapie Ebay one and its still going well! I guess I'll take a new cap with the not quite ok noted above Accuspark and mark up the cylinders on it so I plug in the right leads at night..and in the rain....!! Bob
  5. Hi all Thoughts please. I have an Accuspark distributor fitted to my GT6 and it works well. I’ve got one on my TR4 and it’s lasted well also. However, bought a spare for the GT6 as I’m doing the RBRR with Club triumph and have had to swap a distributor (old points one) on the event once before. Anyway, thought I’d do a trial fit with clamp and all so could quickly swap and the timing would be spot on. However on fitting I couldn’t get it timed properly because to get number 1 cylinder lined up I needed twist It so far clockwise the vacuum unit fouled the block. Looking at it realised that the key way in the distributor was not aligned with the end of the rotor arm. In my experience all my triumph engines have the rotor arm pointing at about 8 o clock for number 1 cylinder in line with the slot in the drive gear but on this distributor it was just beyond 9 o clock when slotted home in the drive which was at 8.00 o clock. I queried this with Accuspark and they said it’s quite common for them to be out of alignment and I should move all the plug leads around one so number 1 was at 9.00 o clock etc. This would work of course but it seems bit of a bodge and somewhat confusing compared to all the other distributors I’ve seen. The Accuspark already fitted has no 1 at 8 o clock. I was going to reply and tell him I wanted to send it back but just wondered if he got difficult, whether I was being awkward myself? welcome any thoughts Bob
  6. Just a quick post hopefully to help someone who is fitting a moto lita wheel. I had real problems fitting it without the horn sounding either constantly or intermittently as the metal wheel earthed against the horn ring. The trick for me was to make sure the sliding joint that moves the steering wheel backwards and forwards was pulled far enough back by releasing the lock nut and loosening the Allen bolt so when the wheel was tightened on to the splines and taper there was enough clearance to stop the wheel contacting the horn ring. Also, if you remove the wheel and, like me tap the inner column with a drift to break the taper, don’t forget that doing so will probably push the inner column inwards and reduce the afore mentioned clearance and cause the horn to sound again. Took me a while to work that one out! You also you may find positioning the outer column nearer the dashboard helps get a bit more clearance. Hopefully may help someone work all this out quicker than me!! Bob
  7. Cheap borrowed money and idiots who don’t know enough buying them means a high price is always possible. That’s absolutely shocking panel fit and would cost a few grand to sort at a specialist. Dread to think how naff the interior will be. Still, good car to get you to a Michelin starred restaurant! At least it means you’ll be used to paying for pretentious overpriced crap! Bob
  8. One of the car's radius arm brackets had sheared on my rotoflex GT6. I supposed I could simply remove the existing bracket and fit new. As many with more experience will know, that was a vain hope. I therefore took off the hubs and in doing so, realised the rotoflexes were a bit cracked so decided to go the whole hog and rebuild the lot. Before I did this, I looked in depth at all the posts on here and elsewhere and they were very helpful and, when you get your head around how it all works and fit's together, its a logical, if slightly time consuming job. The purpose of this post is to point out a few issues I had and perhaps fill in some of the gaps in what I could find on the web. Getting the drive shafts off is pretty straightforward but you really need a spring lifter to do this. One man job. You also need to jack up the hub as well as the spring to get the spring eye bolt out easily - there is a sweet spot of alignment that a combination of the two produces it seems. I used a decent sized trolley jack under the lift and a smaller trolley under the hub/vertical link (see later for reassembly) Getting out the radius arm bracket bolt than runs through the hub is impossible without a press (or it was for me and countless others). I ended up giving them to my friendly local garage and it took him 5 mins and cost a bottle of wine. He told me that he put it on a press, applied pressure then heated it and they slipped out. I got 2 new brackets from what used to be Jigsaw on Ebay. The wishbone bolts came out fine and replaced with polybush from Paddocks. Fitted ok but supplied with 4 washers. I assumed one at each end and one at either inside end of the bushes but could not get those two in. In the end loft them off. Long bolts all treated to copper slip. Rotoflexes genuine from Robush - there is a thread on here about that. One of the reasons I rebuilt the hubs was because I didn't trust the previous restorer. It turned out that on one drive shaft the threaded end had been shortened and thus the nut was no where near fully engaged (presumably stripped it trying to put it together without a press). I had to buy a replacement near side vertical link (completely mullered - as was the wishbone - presumably trying to get it off). There was only a spacer and no shims on the shaft so not certain end float was correct. One of the hubs had seen better days so bit bullet and bought 2 new ones from Canleys (far cheaper than Rimmers). I pulled the hubs with the TSSC hub puller. I'm glad I had one as not sure if a normal three legged putter would have done it (a lot of people say it should but I was glad of the heftier item). The new hubs were far tighter on the shaft than the old ones. I found it impossible to get them fully on the shaft without using a press (only needed a couple of tons). Doing the job without a press would have been impossible for me and it certainly helps as you need to put it together and pull it apart a few times. It also means you don't knacker the driveshaft threads by using them to pull everything into place. In terms of shimming the hub, there is loads of helpful stuff on line. I used the Canley method but I found it hard getting an accurate measure using feelers. It looked like I didn't need spacers but on assembly and checking against the back plate with a dial gauge I ended up with a spacer. I found it confusing the talk of inner/ outer races and bearing cups etc. However, basically you need to fit the cups and bearings and then press through the hub to check the measurement. One point to remember is not to mix up your backplates! I did and had to take is all apart. Doh! The Canley end nuts and washers were a good investment (see another thread on this). Putting it back together was ok once I lined up the two jacks as noted above. At one point the angles are just right so you can slip a bolt through (a tap or two on the top of the link may be needed to get it all aligned) No brute force needed but I did need to get the car low enough a the rear to get enough lift on the spring (I have a hydraulic ramp). The other option would be to stand the spring lifting trolley jack on blocks. All in all, not as bad a job as is made out in my experience. The trickiest bit is the shimming and I would invest in a press if I didn't have one. Bob
  9. Bob Horner


    I have no expertise but a chemist client of mine thought that electricity was a dead end but synthetic petrol would be the future with the nasty greenhouse heating by products removed. Not really sure what she meant but she was pretty bullish about it. Perhaps someone on here has more expertise in this area? What I do find ridiculous Is that a £100k plus Range Rover that can do 0-60 sub 6 seconds and weighs in at a couple of tons, is full packed with plastics and unnecessary electrical items etc etc, gets massive tax breaks (100% up front capital allowances and a 1-2% benefit in kind for the highly paid director who drives it) and in carbon footprint print terms, it must be far far worse than a 1960s mini.. yes electric is the future……. Bob
  10. Thanks Pete. I suppose a lot of club members may buy from the usual suspects and get non original parts unwittingly and then end up it costing a fortune replacing them again in short order. Especially painful (financially at least!) if paying someone else to do it! Bob
  11. Pete - just read your comment above re Robush - I googled them before reading this thread- should have read your post first!! Bob
  12. I wonder if the club ought to stock them - I bet they could get a better deal if buying in quantity? There's a lot of people swapped to CV joints but also an awful lot of people who presumably still have the old rotoflex system. One triumph specialist I know believes that the CV joints cause other issues re diffs etc because the rotoflex has a cushioning effect. Don't know if there is any truth in that. Any one any thoughts on that? Bob
  13. Just thought I'd add my experiences to this. I've had to replace the radius arm brackets on my GT6 which necessitated removing the driveshaft and vertical link from the car so decided to go the whole hog and replace the slightly cracked donuts and rebush everything plus new timken bearings (rimmers). Decided to stay original so sourced some proper metalastik units. Demon Tweeks have them at £167.20 each (incl VAT)!! However, looked online and a firm called Robush Ltd https://www.robush.com/products/rotoflex-coupling/ do them. They were very helpful - cost £89.25 plus vat each (£107.10 incl VAT) plus £12.50 for next day delivery (in stock whereas Demon Tweeks say will get stock in within 7 days). just like to let people know if they are looking. You need to call or email as they don't sell online. You need to quote the part number which is 21/979/1 (there is a link to the original catalogue. Saves you £120 over the Demon Tweeks items (and probably only costs you £100 over the repro rubbish!) Bob
  14. Hi Thanks for responses. I get the same message as Andy but I can download from ‘The Club’ section fine . Used to work from the forum - perhaps link not uprated for 2021 catalogue? Bob
  15. It may be just me, but I used to be able to download the most recent shop catalogue and model specs but I just get an error message these days. Is it something that needs fixing? Regards Bob
  16. Further to another post re fan controllers not working, I ran it up to temperature in the garage last night to check out what was wrong. To get my GT6 up to temperature without a fan running in the garage seemed to take forever - really reluctant to overheat. I'd say about 15 to 20 mins or more of ticking over before got anywhere near hot enough for the thermostat to open. Even then took a while for the gauge to start to creep up and the electric fan was only needed for a minute or two. Prior to taking the head off and attacking the crud around nos 5 and 6, it would boil in no time at all. One thing that I noticed was the bottom hose didn't get that hot which I assumed was because hot water didn't seem to be circulating around and into the engine at anything like the correct rate (indeed the in line temperature controller in the bottom hose wouldn't actually switch on as a result). I honestly can't believe the difference after the clean out and, as a result, from assuming the Gt6 was marginal cooling-wise due to received wisdom, I'd say it was better than the TR4 or the spitfire. Heating/ overheating is a delicate balance and therefore, small restrictions like a build up of crud upset that balance I suppose. Bob
  17. Anyone had any issues with these? I’ve got them on my TR4, spitfire and GT6. After about 4 years one failed on my TR4. I replaced and worked ok since. Bought one for my GT6 a couple of years back and it didn’t work out of the box. Replaced without issue. However the replacement has now failed after a couple of years but not many miles. I have rewired it so it’s got an override switch (which is a must in my experience!). They are expensive but work well when they do work. Always wired via a relay. Just wondering about people’s experience before I shell out £80 for another. Bob
  18. If you need to poke about to get water out of the drain plug there is probably a load more crud in there that you can get out with a bit of wire - or at least that was my experience. I think flushing using holts or similar didn’t work for me. Bob
  19. I had awful problems re overheating in mk2 Gt6. I had the right cowl in place and the side valances. Checked sender, gauge etc. No change. Fitted a new aluminium rad. No change. Fitted a blower electric fan (don’t believe anyone that this sort causes issues - works brilliantly and gives loads of room). No change. Suspected the flow through the system wasn’t good through the bottom hose. Flushed with all sorts of products. There was only a dribble out of the tap at the rear of the block. In the end, took the head off, flushed head with phosphoric acid (recommended by an old hand and despite scepticism on here seamed to fizz away and work well). Then, after protecting bores, poked around and flushed block. Tons of crap at rear of block. Put it all back together. Now runs as cool as a cucumber. Even in the recent heat. No issues at all. Almost too cool! Taking off the head well worth the effort. You need to make sure everything is circulating through the block and head and the system is fine. I’ve spent ££ upgrading but happy with lighter rad and a couple of extra horses from revotec fan but could have got a cool engine with just a deep clean!! Live and learn. Bob
  20. On someone else’s recommendation I used the later spitfire type tunnel cover on my mk2 Gt6. You’ll appreciate the extra clearance when trying to get the overdrive box in and it can’t be seen. Interestingly, my car was converted to overdrive and had not had its tunnel cut or a cover plate. I assume either the body was put onto the chassis with the overdrive gearbox in place or perhaps the gearbox and engine were installed together. You could tighten the prop shaft bolts at the gearbox end from underneath without the cover plate but it was a faff. I had to remove the overdrive for repair so cut back the tunnel and bought a cover plate at the same time. Bob
  21. Thanks Pete for the alternative method, hopefully never need to do it again! Your method aligns the splines but presumably doesn't help get the plunger over the cam on the output shaft? I found that a problem until I held it back. On Youtube it shows a guy slamming it down on the shaft- presumably to overcome the issue of getting the plunger over the cam but if the splines aren't properly aligned that could cause a bit of damage. He did put a chamfer on the cam to help ease the plunger over it but I don't fancy filing off bits of metal unless I really need to. I'll amend my post above as just realised I didn't mention that you need to make sure the lowest part of the cam is at located at the point where the plunger sits. Bob
  22. Johny - it’s all looked a bit knackered inner and outer friction lining but I was only there in the taking apart and having a quick look inside stage - but not sure what they do to recon. I think they replace the entire clutch (presumably they put new linings on a stock of old ones). Not sure about the springs - perhaps weakened springs lead it to slip and then break up with the friction? Although presumably a knackered inner lining will slip sooner than an outer one as the outer one is pressed up hard with hydraulic pressure as opposed to springs that may weaken over time. Bob
  23. On another thread I raised the issue of a slipping overdrive and as a result it required a rebuild. I assumed refitting it would be a simple job but Googled to see what advice was out there in forums and YouTube. A lot of this a MG based and there are various posts about how difficult it is and one YouTube vid from US showing a bit of force used to bang it on to the back of the gearbox and stories of hours of trying etc etc. After finding it very difficult to mate the two myself was beginning to believe them. However, went back the the internet and found a couple of posts in agreement that it is a simple job if you do it properly. There are 2 main issues - Lining up the 2 sets of splines inside the overdrive and then getting the spring loaded pump plunger that operates on a cam on the gearbox output shaft over said cam. The most important thing I learnt was that the splines inside the overdrive may look aligned and some are, but not all are. You have to get a screwdriver to turn the rearmost set of splines anti clockwise until they ALL line up perfectly - not just some of them. The next tip is to use something to pull back the spring loaded plunger. I used a plastic cable tie wound around two of the overdrive units studs and tightened to pull it back. Having done all that it slid straight on apart from the width of the cable tie (1/4 inch). All I then needed to do was remove the cable tie - it slips off the spring and you can then cut and remove it. Other points; It’s recommended to use some gasket sealant and also I found it better to put the gasket on the overdrive rather than the adapter plate. That was because, having at last got it on the splines but not got the pump plunger over the cam, wiggling it made the studs on the overdrive damage the gasket on the adaptor plate (it’s only 1/2 inch away from mating at that point and the studs are just touching the adaptor plate). Once I used the cable tie method it wouldn’t have made much difference. Also, a couple of nuts need to you lift the overdrive unit away from the adaptor plate slightly to get them on - careful not to slip it up too far. I presume it can take a while if you don’t know the above tricks but eventually it will go on once you keep moving the internal splines (only anti clockwise) so hence battling for hours. I worked out how to get in on but had damaged the gasket for the reasons noted above. It meant I had to take it a apart and do it again with a fresh gasket a couple of days later. As proof it was unlikely to be a fluke, I used the same method and it took 10 mins to get it on and bolted up. Hope that helps someone else sometime or interested to hear any other approaches or experiences. Bob note above - you need to make sure the cam is at its thinnest point where the pump plunger locates so it can go over it as easily as possible. Broadly that's aligned at the bottom of the overdrive.
  24. Just an update. Took the overdrive to ORS in Sheffield. Very helpful people. They pulled it apart on the bench whilst I was there to have a look. Clutch was indeed knackered (looked like heat damage due to slipping) but otherwise looked ok. Refurbished it for £375 plus Vat which compared to other prices seemed very reasonable. Very friendly and helpful people and just over 2 week turnaround (which they said would be the case). I’ve not put the box back in the car yet but having had them supply an A type for my TR4 (which has had serious abuse on some rally tests) and a D type on a spitfire which have both worked perfectly, I’m sure it will be a quality job. Putting the gearbox and overdrive back together was an interesting experience and I’ll post a separate thread in that in case anyone else is attempting to do same. Bob
  25. I thought both, not just outer face - the diagram that Pete posted shows that doesn't it? Or perhaps I misunderstand what Pete wrote. With no seal between the inside of the box and the filter, it would draw air from the box, not through the filter. Just dry seal in my opinion. Regards Bob
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