Bob Horner

Used to be the thing but I think it’s expensive now. Used to be recommended as optical trigger tolerated worn distributor shafts if you added it to an old distributor. Can’t see the point of it now - especially given the price. It’s not programmable is it? If so, you’d be better going for 123 if you want to spend that sort of money. Also it doesn’t just fit inside the distributor so doesn’t look like standard - if that’s important. Bob

Same as Peter. I’ve got an Accuspark. - works a treat. I fitted the same on my Tr4 and Spitfire and it’s been faultless for years. So cheap that you can buy two as a spare. Works better than my recon Delco and has tach drive. I don’t think the 123 worth the money. The tr4 was set up on a rolling road and goes like stink (Dennis Vessey did it -a well known triumph tuner). He didn’t seem to have a problem with my cheap distributor (said he could fiddle a bit with it, but gains marginal for a road car). However, we all love spending money of shiny things and I can be as tempted as anyone else- although I’m a bit more circumspect these days! Bob

Hi Pete Its a D type - I should have cleared that up in my initial reply. Regards Bob

Thanks everyone. A fair bit of food for thought from the above. Time to take the bloody cover off and play around with it then! Bob

Thanks chaps. One thing I should have said, which I observed today, is that this slipping occurs when the overdrive switch is off. It seems not to do it when engaged. That would seem to rule out issue of it dropping in and out due to electric and/ or solenoid adjustment issues? Bob

Hi all I wonder if any one can help with this one. I have a mk2 GT6 that has been converted to overdrive (not by me). I have noticed that recently, when the car is cold it behaves oddly in that it seems to be going into and out of overdrive. Although, it may be more like a clutch slipping - the revs rise but the speed does not - or rather does not straight away - if you apply power it seems to take up drive. Once warm, it behaves normally - in and out of overdrive with no undue delay and no issue of revs rising or falling. There is some vibration at higher speeds (70 plus) which I think is the prop - the UJs were changed and I think it needs balancing. I don't think its electrical as all the wiring/switches were new (done by me) and checked and all seem to be working fine. I know there are a couple of clutches in an overdrive and confess I don't fully understand how they work! Oil levels checked and ok. Its not long been back on the road (it was a part restoration that I finished) Thanks in advance for any contributions. Bob

Thanks Scrapman. What are the issues with swapping hoods? Do the sockets that accept the mk2 hood frame bolt on to the body where the captives are for the mk3 hood or is it a welding job? Are the parts generally available? Bob

I’m thinking of prepping my mk3 spitfire for a bit of light regularity rallying and I think a roll bar is essential. I’d be keen to keep the hood rather than use a permanent hard top. What are the options for a mk3? I read that you need a “hinged” bar but that sounds a bit flimsy. Happy to pay for a bespoke job to do it proper if anyone has any recommendations. To do it properly will I need to lose the hood? I’m based in N Yorks. Also, if any one has info re strengthening the chassis/ skid plates etc I’d be vey grateful. I’ve prepped a TR4 before and there is loads of info and products for them but I can find very little for a spitfire. Thanks in anticipation.

A lot of the stuff on our cars is time consuming but straightforward. That’s why these days I do most of it myself. I’ve had some eye watering bills from Triumph specialists. Sometimes they make cock ups and take too long - just like I do. However, I think the motor trade generally doesn’t accept that issue and charges for time anyway! I charge for my time too but in a different sphere. I know that sometimes a job takes a certain amount of time and I can’t really charge for it because it exceeds a realistic market price so I don’t. There is a lot of money about in the classic car world these days and they are a luxury. Rates have gone up reflecting cars values and their ‘luxury” status. Ask how a garage works out it’s rate and generally there will be blank looks - just like if you ask a private dentist to tell you how he gets his figure. I regularly see small well run independent garages servicing moderns making in well excess of £100k per annum for the proprietor. It is not a low paid industry. However, don’t begrudge them that if they can get it, why not! Just random thoughts and no reflection on Dale’s business or the price/ value of this job. As a member of CT I don’t doubt his considerable expertise. As an accountant who sees what a lot of different business and professions make, I always find it amusing to note what other people think other people earn - generally they are clueless about anything other than their own wage or profits and often think they themselves are great value when someone else trying to make a living isn’t! Bob

Now, I’m all for spending unnecessary sums of money on cars in the dubious hope it will make them go faster or stop a bit quicker, but I’ve never had the urge to ever upgrade a starter motor because, in my experience of running three triumphs simultaneously (TR4, mk3 Spit and Mk2 GT6) I’ve never had a problem with a starter motor in terms of reliability or its ability to spin and start an engine. Am I alone in this fool’s paradise? Bob

Well, the liquidator will be smiling -and possibly the bank and hmrc, but I doubt the general unsecured creditors will get a look in - they don’t usually.....!! Bob

Ah, I see. Please excuse, my ignorance. TRs, spitifres and GT6s are my sock in trade. I mentioned a pusher as it seems a lot of people dont fancy the idea as it seems somehow wrong to fit that way but there are lots of advantages in space terms for TRs and Spitfire derivatives. Bob

I have a revotec pusher on a gt6 mk2 radiator. Bought from Paddocks. I assumed I was buying a puller and was slightly peeved when it arrived.. However, works really well and glad i fitted this rather than a puller. I have a revotec puller on a tr4. No difference in cooling. In fact i would say the pusher brings down the temperature faster. Damn sight easier setting the timing on the GT6 without a fan in the way! Bob

I've had a bit of fun with this. I've gone for genuine minilites from Tyresave (based in the Northwest). Good to deal with and best price I could find. I've got "genuine" miniiltes on a TR4 and very pleased with them. I went for 20mm offset (you can specify with minilites but it takes a bit longer for them to arrive) which is about factory (some say 22mm). However, the lower wishbone caught on the rears (its very very close generally). I solved it with a spacers (5mm off Ebay) but could have ground a bit off I suppose (only just touching - the problem is when you jack up the suspension the wheels clap hands - there would be enough clearance when the weight is on it). You can always add spacers to reduce positive offset but you can't increase it is its too little (essentially positive offset brings the wheel further inside the wheel arch). I did swap the studs for the longer stronger Freelander ones which are generally recommended (esp with spacers). I originally bought some Dunlop D1 replicas but had problems with the wheel arches cutting the front tyre (they were slightly unusual 165 80 R13 tyres so slightly larger rolling radius than the standard 155 80 R13s and the offset was not quite enough at 16mm - see comment above about reducing offset but not increasing). Seems D1 replicas are ok with Mk3 GT6 but hit and miss (so to speak) with Mk2 (seems some cars catch and others not). I went for 5 inch rims (as could fit the widely recommended 175 70 tyres in future and were cheaper then 5.5 inch). I had some nearly new 155 80 R13 Dunlop street response tyres on wires for my Mk3 spitfire (since swapped to period alloys on the spit) so put them on the new GT6 minilites. Haven't road tested in anger yet but I'll post if any problems now. Doubt it but its hard to tell until you're working the suspension fully. The usual thing when you go from standard, all sorts of things happen and it can be a bit of a lottery if it works or not without some other cost/ action being required to remedy it. Having tinkered with TR4, a Mk3 spitfire and now a Mk2 GT6 you'd think I'd learn! Unfortunately there are a lot of specialists happy to sell you shiny add ons but they never tell you the downsides. That's pretty expensive when you are dealing with a TR4! Not so bad with a spitfire. Thankfully, I generally don't pay for the labour for fettling - just my own time but I dread to think what it costs if someone has to make it work/fit and charge the time... Regards Bob

Mmmmm..... fit and forget......???? Perhaps not? Bob (Someone with a rotoflext mk2 GT6 contemplating this upgrade)

Yes, Ive done it. Works fine and i think theres a bit more space that above wheel arches. Only slight issue is that Ive got a rear seat and when its up it muffles the sound a bit. Bob

Thought so! But no chemist - clearly!

Possibly - not sure where the engine had resided most of its life. When I say "fizzed" perhaps more correct to say it "foamed" Bob

She seemed in good form to me. Champing at the bit to get on with sending stuff out!! Cycling to the office for exercise!

Yes, should have mentioned that some of my pointless purchases were a couple of temperature senders and voltage stabilisers first! I know its often said overheating is down to these. However, in my experience (tr4, spitifre and now this) its always been something else to do with airflow, or water circulation. The gauges havent lied - as much as i wished they had! Bob

Just thought I'd share my experiences. I've just put a GT6 mk2 back on the road. It's running on a late Mk3 engine. Despite idling happily without overheating as soon as I drove it, the temperature gauge started rising in to the red. The engine was flushed with all sorts (including Fernox) but vey little crud came out from flushing and the drain at the rear of the block refused to do anything but dribble slightly (despite, bits of wire wiggling etc). The heater was lukewarm at best (although did help a bit to cool the engine if on full with the fan blowing). In the end bit the bullet, took off the cylinder head and after protecting cylinders etc with cloths, had a good go at cleaning out the rear of the block. Not surprisingly full of crud and scale. It didn't take too long and had it cleared out and running clear with water. The head was also pretty gummed up so treated that to a flush with phosphoric acid (40% strength bought off ebay). This latter substance is somewhat controversial - John D swears it wont work (only read his posts after buying it on someone else's recommendation). Anyway, it fizzed away for a few days and cleaned up things a treat. As the head was off I was sure I could rinse it out thoroughly so decided to risk it. Cleaned up the head, lapped the valves, got a new gasket and put it all back together. Far more hassle changing a diff. All working well, engine now not overheating, rear drain working perfectly. Heater is proper hot (not necessary I gather in a GT6 but nice to see it can work as expected). Moral of (my) story. Bite the bullet, don't arse about flushing and re flushing. Don't replace all manner of items (bought a very nice aluminium rad which I'm sure I don't need but then it does reduce a bit of weight up front!), water pump etc. Chances are your overheating issue is a cruddy block (especially if the drain doesn't work) and you may as well have a go at sorting it. Bob

I emailed about parts availability and, as usual Angie was very helpful. She took payment for a GT6 clutch and one or two other bits. They arrived Friday (pretty quick in the circumstances). As Graham says its good to support the club and get cheaper parts. Not sure the Government can force closure of the shop. As far as I understand it, motor factors (like Halfords) can still trade. Also, online orders are fine (as long as appropriate measures are taken in the workplace re distancing). Mixed messages are being sent out by the Government and others (esp the police who have now "clarified" their approach). Businesses that can trade should and they should find ways of trading observing the restrictions but working differently. A business doesn't need to be "essential" to trade. The economic cost of this will be unimaginable and the loss of tax revenue that funds public services like the NHS will be significant and damaging in the long run. We should try and mitigate it by supporting all those we can where it doesn't involve large numbers of people passing on the virus. Bob

Small piece of advice - you probably know this but make sure you keep the main bearing caps in order and the right way round. My young son got a bit carried away dismantling my GT6 engine and before I could prevent it.... He didn't mix up the order but didn't note the orientation. Luckily we could still read the stamped marks and match them up but it could have been a serious PITA. Interestingly the Haynes manual doesn't seem to stress this issue overly as my young lad pointed out...(the workshop one does). Bob

Just an update on this. Went for Falken sincera 165 80 R13s on the Dunlop D1 replicas noted above, and, subject to road testing a bit more, all seems to fit with no issues. Regards Bob

Hi chaps. Thanks for the input so far. The offset is +16 . Bob