wayne Rollinson

yes I certainly will be buying more from them very nice to deal with and great quality, when you finally get through your car you will be well chuffed, i am only just starting on my journey and keep adding to my list of things to do lol, regards wayne.

I have just bought a few panels for my spitfire from them and i am well chuffed with the quality, I have been going through your posts with interest its coming on nicely

not sure what yours is like but I have always found a good fitting system with springs the best, its simple most race bike systems are like it, regards wayne

Now my panels and parts are here I made a start on removing all the rot, when I got the outer sill off it had been replaced badly, part of the old sill left in but explained why the door gap at this side was non existent. nothing had been fitted correctly but once I get everything out including the floor, lower A post I can fit it up on chassis and spend time getting the correct alignment, it felt good to get started on the tub, The curved panels at the front and rear where saved I used a wire wheel to go over the edges to find the spot welds and then drilled them out, this is easy to find them using the wheel it leaves the indents full of paint. after cutting out the sill i saw how weak the tub is so I plan on cutting the bulkhead out after everything is set so i dont weaken it too much and it all folds on me.

As Clive says, what are the door gaps like. If they are really good tack in a 25mm box section across the gap so the door still fits so you can double check before going ahead and properly welding if the gaps are bad you want a gap tool you can bolt in to hold the opening as is then once you take the sills off you can adjust the gap correctly by turning the nuts, here's one I knocked up but you can buy them, or maybe borrow one. I just paid £165 for the full floor, £10 middle sill then about £28 for the inner sill, I got lucky with a new outer sill and payed a tenner but i think they are normally about £45 oh and lower A post was £62, if your outer is good drill out the spot welds carefully to re use the sill, I would be inclined to do the full job as you can see the full extent

I am about to do my floor, A post, sills then cut the bulkhead out, i will post pics and description, it will commence this weekend so I can move things on then onto the wings

Go for it, just make sure you have a decent welder with gas, stitch weld so the heat doesn't build up in any one area, Richards post above is spot on, regards wayne

Thanks Nick, I did see the the damper issue, and again looks like both have good points and things to overcome, regards wayne

Thanks John, I now have questions lol. looking at the cv conversion that nicks done with the gt6 uprights with two adjustable arms to the chassis, if I did the same thing to the MGF upright by machining a base block and shock mount above and setting lower arms up on rose joints similar to nicks and marcus's would this be ok or is the way you set up your arm a better or stronger way? I don't really want to go full space frame style like some others have done I want to keep the spit chassis, many regards wayne, ps I got a set of rover 100 short drive shafts bizarrely.

I can't find the Marcus post anyone point me in the right direction please, my heads spinning now going through posts lol

John I have just found a post with your pictures on this looks a good set up, I will look at Marcus's post as well for more ideas, I liked Nicks cv conversion but the price of the links and might be harder to find, I need to do some reading and make a plan thanks again, ps John did you do any documentation or drawings for your set up, many regards wayne

Thanks clive I will check that out, I had indeed been thinking on the cv conversion, initially was just going to leave as is but after going the whole hog I might as well do it at this stage as wish i had done later, everyone seems to rate the conversions although I hadnt looked at the MGF one so will see what that entails, Regards wayne

Thanks Nick i will contact them and I will also be in touch I am able to travel for bits, regards wayne.

looking for a pair of GT6 vertical rear links for the rotoflex if anyone has them or knows where i might find a set, regards wayne.

wow great conversion, I collected my gearbox and overdrive at the weekend so I now can get the lump fitted up, my cooling side I have planned on going with an ally rad which will be plated off with an electric fan I have worked out my tub cuts and material is in so I will be cutting this week I can press up my panels to fit the cut outs so things will move along nicely

I collect all my gearbox parts saturday and nearly gathered all the panels i need to do the tub so things are going to move along nicely, 2 sheets of mild steel came in to do the alteration on the front tub and today at work two large rollers came in to remove the sprockets and change bearings so after a short while i came up with this lol, that's me sorted for pressing new bearings and polybushes .

The Ral code is a standard that all paints are mixed to and should be exactly the same, wherever you go to, every Job I get in with steel work the drawings specify which ral to have the products finished in it is the same for paint or powder coating regards Wayne

I would be airing on the larger size of 203mm x133mm, lock both ends in even better plate down both ends so it can't move, go with the trolley in the picture above these are easily got, to cover yourself as said a structural engineer will do your calcs,regards wayne ps I just read badwolfs last comment you could just put in box section at either end to spread the load giving downward support and bolt into the floor,regards.

178mmx 108mm RSJ would be ok if you plan to support like a goal post with a couple of corner gussets, you could go with the 152mm x89mm if you made it like a roof truss with a central spar, if you plan on using it just as a beam no bracing then i would think 203mm x 133mm, you will get some natural sag over that distance, regards wayne

Hi Clive, no i have got jag mounts, i have made plates to fit the engine block to fit to the mounts via an extra plate off the uprights, i just wait to collect the gear box and overdrive next weekend so i can then align everything and mount it up properly, I didnt like the way the spitfire rubber mounts sagged, i have sen the e type mounts they look much better, but i will soon find out, thanks again wayne.

You guys will get sick of me soon lol, the straight 6- 2000 mk 2 block, what is the thread size for the holes in the block, I need to clean them out with a tap, so i can make my plate mounts, regards wayne

ah Great I have just joined on there to gleam help with the injection side of things, regards wayne

superb thanks for the help, makes life easier when people have already tried things, I will go with the capri discs then I can mill my own spacers, I am not going too radical with power, a new cam and some porting, just decking the pistons and a little higher compression but I want the engine to last really, I will also make a stainless 6-3-1 to help, many regards and thanks again, wayne.

Super Clive, yes i wan't more track oriented car, engine is back although i am just waiting to collect the gearbox next saturday so i am unsure as to how far back but i think most are six inches. yes it is a standard swing spring adjustable arms to help in adjustments, wheel size would be good to go up to get bigger discs but if this creates issues with suspension then i will stick to 13" I will go to vented and i believe the Citroen saxo are good or with a little faffing capri, I just want to get things set or find issues before i buy things and find problems. I nearly have all my panels and engine parts to really move forward so thanks for all your help, wayne.

I will be doing etch prime stone chip then colour match with 2k on the underside of the full body arches and bonnet, unless i end up with a gt6 fibreglass one, unless people think there is a better way, regards wayne.