johny
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Everything posted by johny
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A fuel pump that isnt up to the demand doesnt really show up on acceleration as the float chamber takes care of that so youre more likely to encounter it driving at continuous high speed up a long steep hill. Typically it'll start to misfire but if you back off for a while will then run well again...
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To be honest I think youre asking to get a nasty surprise if you dont keep a tighter control on a repair than appears to have been the case there. Was there no quote beforehand and then a regular update on the mounting costs? I would tell the garage I wont be paying anything extra that I havent authorised previously but I know some people, who sometimes worry about saving pennies in the supermarket, are then incredibly slack when it comes to large expeditures🤪
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Let us know what you find as hopefully it'll obviously be the dynamo at fault but as I say could just be the voltage regulator doing something strange and suddenly increasing the load of the dynamo. The squeak is probably the fan belt slipping as the load its driving goes up...
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Yes same applies and if you disconnect the dynamo electrically make sure to remove both its connections and dont let them touch earth. However the dynamo works in conjunction with a separate voltage regulator which can make it a bit more difficult to locate the fault. With the fan belt removed you can spin the dynamo by hand to hear and feel for any bearing roughness....
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yes thats the idea and it might even be worth disconnecting the alternator electrically as well to be completely sure thats where the problem lies. Its ok to run the engine just on the battery although of course it will go flat after a while but without the fan belt fitted it will overheat before then😁 However never do the reverse and disconnect the battery to leave the running engine powered from the alternator as this can upset the voltage control....
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It certainly sounds like the alternator so you could remove the fan belt and run the engine for a short while. Obviously the ignition light will be on all the time as the alternator is not being driven but at least you could see if the squeak and tickover fluctuations have stopped....
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Daily Spit 1500 body repairs & more..
johny replied to wimpus's topic in My Triumph Restoration Project
I make that about 41mpg which is good👍 -
Rimmers seem to think 154479 and UKC1450 are the same and TKC3002 is for single rail(?) but I would want to bet on it...
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I know Triumph changed gear teeth angles during the manufacturing life of some gearboxes but not sure which ones and when. Presumably it was for quieter running and/or thrust considerations and of course makes certain gearsets non mixable....
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What are the serial number letters on the engine?
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Could be worse. I had a Herald many moons ago where the top of one of the pistons separated so the engine still ran but of course one cylinder had no compression! It wasnt till I got the head off and saw three pistons would go up and down while the 4th appeared to just sit there at the top of its stroke☹️
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Yes good idea and for future reference when doing a compression test its worth doing a second after putting a cap full of oil in each bore. This is called wet and dry tests and the oil can temporarily improve the piston to bore sealing so if the second reading is substantially higher it indicates a problem with the bore/piston rings....
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It would have been interesting to put a little petrol in each combustion chamber to see how quickly it drained past the valves. Anyway as you say now its apart you can check valve guide wear, head flatness, valve spring condition etc and then decide how much you want to spend...
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sorry cant open those pics...
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No one plug, a lot lighter in colour than other five, on Vitesse
johny replied to daverclasper's topic in Engine
Should be able to feel amount of play in the shaft Dave by side to side push-pull.... -
Theyve got part number 158695 for 1500 and GMC1023 for 1300. Both in stock but big difference in price...
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Rimmers certainly list two different clutch master cylinders for the Dolomite 1300 and 1500 but not sure how they vary....
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I did wonder about the clutch hydraulics because as it seems the 1500RWD has a bigger clutch than the original Herald one then the master cylinders might have been different sizes....
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Hope youre lucky and let us know the outcome👍
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I reckon theres a very good chance the PO just bought an engine/gearbox out of a scrapper and stuck it in! In fact it was a very good choice because they got a 1500 (personal taste I know) but with a 3 rail box so no problems with propshaft length or gearlever position etc
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I suppose it would be nice to have replacement box ready to go in as old one comes out...
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In fact that clutch plate that Rimmers sells is for non UK 1500 Spitfires that had 3 rail boxes! Its bigger than the MkIV Spit clutch and I guess they probably also used it in the 1500 RWD...
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Seems like the 1500 RWD (not Dolomite) being earlier was fitted with a 3 rail box so should have a 10 spline shaft...
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Well I think we decided you have a 3 rail gearbox from a 1500RWD which I reckon should use the following friction plate: Clutch Plate -10 spline - 7 1/4 inch Diameter - GCP103 (rimmerbros.com) If that is the case then I agree with Josef, although this is a bigger diameter clutch than the one used in a MkIV Spit it should all work no problem and even first gear ratio should be the same....
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No one plug, a lot lighter in colour than other five, on Vitesse
johny replied to daverclasper's topic in Engine
Yes to the electronic ignition trigger so its interesting to check the timing with a strobe on number 6 cylinder which of course should be exactly the same as where you set it on number 1....
