johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Im afraid thats about it unless you can take the blade out of the hacksaw then reassemble it with the blade in position (maybe at 90º?) to cut the bolt...
An air driven tool is available and would make this job a doddle but not many of us have that luxury☹️ You should be able to move the components one way or another to give a slight gap or if necessary cut through part of the bush itself. Then youll need patience and slow progress possibly spread over several sessions and certainly a few cuppas!
Its the way you bond with the car and 30 years later wouldnt dream of parting with it😍
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I think this has been discussed before and the two terminals on your car should be slightly different sizes. I would measure them and the larger will be the positive...
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If it was tracking alignment I would expect both tyres to have worn as to go in a straight line both wheels have to have the same angle even though it might be the wrong angle. To have wear on one tyre only sounds like heavy cornering on that side or another type of misalignment on that wheel only....
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oh dear if its rusted into the trunnion steel sleeve (almost guaranteed) then its out with a hacksaw to cut the bolt both sides between the trunnion and link plates. Luckily the bolts are usually quite soft so cut fairly easily especially if the assembly is off the car.
Theres now stainless sleeves available or if using a normal one I recommend having a routine of undoing the bolt periodically to move and copperslip it....
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yes the oil could be contaminated with an additive or be fully synthetic which might cause slipping so worth changing by draining from both the gearbox and OD drain plugs. However its also possible theres a problem in the hydraulic system such as blockage of the operating valve or a dirty filter both of which can be serviced while the oils drained....
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Remember dont go over Kew Bridge🤣
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Think I used a 1/2" drive socket the wrong way round once for a stubborn one with a large allen key and mallet on the other end....
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one of the better problems to have🤪
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And then a test run?
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Im considering the same change which I believe has been done successfully by many owners and it will certainly fit with no problems even using the original clamp plate by just leaving out two of the studs. However I think Triumph must have used 6 in this strange layout to better resist the force developed between the studs and casing when one back wheel hits a large bump. As theres no 'swing spring' to dissipate the energy the risk is probably that the diff casing will fail around the stud hole and I have seen photos of this but without knowing what caused it. If this did happen and caused some sort of accident it would certainly be difficult to explain to your insurance company😮
Also I see that Canleys offer an aluminium casing for these diffs which comes with 4 holes but they recommend drilling two extra holes for use on non swing spring vehicles.....
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Without regapping the spark plugs (to what?) I not even sure theres much advantage in using a lower resistance coil. Surely the maximum voltage youre ever going to achieve is that necessary to jump the plug gap?
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Ive come across those needle roller spacers both loose fitting and press fit in the laygear so Im not sure which is the correct set up - or maybe it doesnt matter?
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43 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
Colin - Can you not rewire some of your fuses with good old fashioned fuse wire. It must still be available somewhere. Doug/Johny can advise if the rating is different in any way. Must be cheaper while you are still 'testing'
yes fuse wire cards still available on ebay and although probably not very accurate will do the job. Just be aware that being 'open' the heat produced when blowing is exposed...
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yes its a bit more complicated with fuse/trips as they are in series with the circuit load so the circuit supply might be 12v but, for example, 0.05v will be across said fuse/trip and 11.95v across the load (headlights, horn etc).
As you say, fuses dont blow at exactly their rated value as time is needed for the heat produced by 0.05v x fault current to melt the link and obviously ambient temperature will also have an effect....
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well we're talking about the power needed to operate the fuse/trip so you could use P=VI but the voltage would have to be that dropped across the fuse/trip (mV?) not the circuit supply voltage.
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3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Johny,
power does not trip the breaker. Current and current alone trips the breaker.
Power is not (current x resistance) squared. It is (current squared x resistance)
You are correct that dropping the voltage over the same resistance will drop the current.
I’m sorry to point these things out, but you mess with volts and amps at your peril!
Doug
oops yes Doug I see now I got the squared in the wrong place it is indeed I x I x R however the effect it has in operating the fuse/trip is the same....
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I think youll find we're in agreement as for the formula👍 However it must be power that operates the fuse or breaker as either has a small resistance so with the current flow is consuming power. In the fuse this power is heat that melts the metal to disconnect the circuit....
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Dont think thats right Pete, if you want to limit the current flow (Amps) to a component it doesnt matter what voltage that component is operating at as the power required to trip the breaker or blow the fuse is:
Current x (resistance of fuse or breaker) squared.
As the resistance shouldnt change it just down to the amps...
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what is that sleeve (remains)? It doesnt look like the tip needle bearing.... And hows the layshaft/gear?
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yes in fact that doesnt look too bad at all - soon be tearing down the strip again👍
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what about the bush and input shaft waggle?
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8 minutes ago, Paula said:
Understood!
Bit of threadlock as well?
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ah do you think it has a problem then? However every Triumph gearbox Ive seen does always have a good covering of oil over the inside of the bell housing....
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I can see the bronze bush there which should just slide out
Removing exhaust manifold stud
in Engine
Posted
Dont think youll get much temperature into the head so I would do a few heat/cool cycles on the stud itself to try and get it to break free...