johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Watch out its a bit of a lump as it comes of the crank spigot....
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If its a lip seal its worth putting a new one on now as although the flywheel has to come off its not a difficult job...
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Dont let them talk you into trying a 3 or 4 leg puller as that might work on some cars but the triumph hub seems to be made of plasticine....
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oh and I hate to add jobs to the list but is your rear crank seal a scroll or rubber lip seal type?
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Hi, clutch does look pretty good. Is there much waggle in the gearbox input shaft? Oh and dont forget to fish out the corresponding bush in the flywheel to see how much wear it has...
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Paddocks are 10.50 + VAT and del. for a wheel bearing kit and trunnions are cheap (although as with most things now cant vouch for quality) but your biggest problem is getting hold of the proper puller cos the hub will be tight!
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no taper bearing in there, just a ball race and a needle roller that runs directly on the shaft
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no, no dont attempt the hub without the proper tool! Im one who bent up and ruined a hub using a puller....
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Lets hope its the outer ball race bearing and then the needle roller bearing surface wont have been damaged🤞
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And dont forget OD drains quite a bit of power so certainly a Herald or Spitfire is going to suffer....
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
It has 40amp rating so I might be able to make a hover car!
So I just need to find a switched live to connect the yellow to and buy a suitably rated override switch (Halfords sell a 17amp switch with a red light) and connect to the green.
There is an inline fuse in both the blue and orange wires but you suggest a fuse from the battery to the red? I have a second fuse box from the battery for a tripmaster and map light so I could use one of the free slots.
Now to see if the fan actually fits......
Iain
Dont think youll need a beefy manual switch as this just operates the electronics like the temperature sensor and its the relay that switches the power to the fan. All live wires must be backed by a fuse of at least a rating lower than that of the wire itself so that in the event of a chafed wire shorting to earth the risk of fire is reduced...
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Thatll do nicely! I take it the yellow ignition wire powers the electronics which will power down when the ignition is turned off and the green is for an optional manual overide switch. The red one will be the main fan power supply but must be suitably fused as near as possible to the battery....
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yes wasnt the heated gear stick the reason why the last Spitfires had an insulating piece midway?
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The radius arm obviously moves through an arc as the suspension goes up and down so its reconnection will be easiest when its in the horizontal position. Otherwise I think the only thing that could cause serious misalignment is if the spring wasnt correctly seated on the diff (or its twisted in some way) so is that a possibility?
Maybe you could put the wheel back on temporarily and have an assistant use that to pull the axle forward enough for you to get the radius arm bolt in....
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4 hours ago, classiclife said:
Well I presume, you neither have one of these fans nor have tested one in the past ??
Speaking as someone who has, I can say that the fan has provided faultless reliable service over the last 7x years in the Vitesse dealing with 40+ degree temperatures abroad on a frequent basis. It cools quickly and does the job. Further to that, I have the 160W 14" version on the Daimler and that reduces the coolant temperature exceedingly quickly. I should add I also had the same fan on my Sunbeam Alpine for many years.
Whatever the construction attributes may or may not be, I can only report on factual first hand experience and knowledge. I tend to find that is of greater veracity and for me is the acid test rather than random self-convincing vacuous beliefs.
Unfortunately its true that some manufacturers do exaggerate their fans power figures which is not to say they wont do the job but does make comparison on pricing impossible. Its easy to check by using a meter in series to measure the fan current flow (air flow is almost directly related to this) although most multimeters are limited to 10A so if the fan is rated at more than 120w youre likely to damage the meter. Also if you find the cooling is insufficient it might be because the fan is not as powerful as you think....
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You could be right but I now think that, at least for a standard engine set up, even the chinese fans might be sufficient. After all its only got to do more than the mechanical fan at tickover (maybe 800rpm compared to 2000rpm+ for an electric unit) and its certainly going to be much more effective at directing the air through the radiator...
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Iain, if youve got access to a lathe cant you get a spacer made up? Aluminium would do and, off the top of my head, 38mmID, ~60mmOD and a few mm thick then use an M16 steel penny washer to clamp it in place.....
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My opinions:
First really the whole halfshaft assembly needs to come off to do U/Js - practically they cant be done on the car. The assembly is easier to take off with the tension of the spring removed which is also required for removal of the diff so from this point of view its a good idea to change U/Js at the same time however I would only do that work if I could find wear in them.
A spring lifter does make either/both jobs easier although its not essential as Ive just changed my diff using just a couple of long lengths of studding screwed into the top of it to release and pull the spring back into place...
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oh if only there was that option on the Vitesse!
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Yes to avoid that madness Ive bought a little gauge that I screw directly into the pressure switch connection once in a blue moon. Once Ive got a reading I quickly remove it and go for a laydown😁
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try also to measure the weight needed to compress it to the fitted length if possible and then you´ll know you have a 100% correct set up so will be able to sleep easier at night🤣
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my VitesseGT6 manual says 1.55" free length, 1.25" fitted giving a load of 14.5lb at that point👍
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Did you check the spring complies the WSM specification (free length and load at fitted length)? If these are correct and the valve seats well then the system will work as Triumph intended and no washers needed...
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yes typically a worn engine will show low oil pressure (with possibly the warning light coming on) at idle when hot and especially with poor quality/high mileage oil. At that point you could blank off the relief valve completely and it still wouldnt improve things!
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Hello from Paula and her Vitesse
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
Im sorry I forgot about the backplate which of course would have to be removed to get to the rear seal housing. Yours is a lip seal but does look dry as if leaking I would expect to see oil on the housing (those two small holes in it are used to push the seal out from the other side of the housing once its removed). Maybe its not worth continuing as you have enough on your plate as it is....