johny
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Posts posted by johny
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46 minutes ago, NonMember said:
The seal is formed between the tapered bottom of the hole in the caliper and the bell flare of the pipe end. The former is made by a standard drill, the latter by a flaring tool. It's much easier to get the latter wrong, but you say you've fitted a new pipe?
Sounds like the seat face in the caliper could be smoothed off with a suitably sized drill then? Have to be careful not to damage the thread though...
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Did they give any explanation of how this mess has happened?
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5 hours ago, Paul H said:
Hi Nick I do have a oil pressure guage , 70 on startup 50 at 50mph 20/25 on tickover . After long run maybe down to 15 on tickover but no lower .
Today I pulled the plugs , moved the oil filter carrier to vertical backfilled both holes ( centre and side) with about 500ml , dipstick now rising . No filter fitted . I do have hi torque starter
Ran engine , oil started to rise and flow gently over but very slowly no drama which I was hoping for . My deduction low pressure , pick up blocked ? Or oil pump failure ?
Paul
I think perhaps you've succeeded Paul as I wouldn't expect loads of oil flow at cranking speed. Don't forget the pump is quite small and not very effective at low revs. It's designed to pressurise what is quite a closed system so when you put the filter back on I reckon that's what will happen...
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Hi, you really need to find out if the play is in the threaded portion of the trunnions (allows steering movement of the front wheels) or the bushes that fit in the trunnions which allow the up-down motion of the wheel. The kit for the second is cheap while the trunnions themselves are quite expensive. Also it's worth confirming exactly where the play is as some testers confuse play in the wheel bearings,(a limited amount of which is required) with wear elsewhere...
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I find the worst thing for sticking float valves is a lack of regular use. Think fuel evaporates and leaves a sticky residue☹️
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53 minutes ago, NonMember said:
That would be for overdrive (or a non-OD GT6 in 4th). A Vitesse should have a 3.89:1 diff so in direct 4th at 40mph I'd expect ~2400RPM
Yes sorry I used the richyrichracing site but left in the wrong diff ratio😳 Comes out 2300rpm on 155/80/13 tyres...
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Depends also on your tyres but if everything is standard it should be doing just under 2000rpm at 40mph.
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Sounds like having removed the Prv might have helped then as it connects directly to the intake and should have allowed at least some air out of it? Of course getting some oil in there, if possible, would have been even better.
However I think the plan of getting some oil in the main gallery and spinning the pump will now do the trick🤞
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Petes talking about the two drive shafts as they come in long and short flavours and can't be interchanged without seriously affecting the rear suspension geometry....
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Yes all I can think is maybe the pump has drained of oil for some reason (which it must do everytime the engine stops) then this new filter has a very effective anti drain arrangement such that the air trapped in the pump and gallery can't be expelled so easily and the pump can't pull up oil from the sump...
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Otherwise that grubscrew directly above the prv goes straight onto the pump discharge gallery on the way to the filter. Could you get oil in there?
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Thing is aren't some synchros steel so won't have the potential for damage by the oil like bronze ones?
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Think we can discount a prv problem then. Looks like your choices are now to vent or not and to spin on starter or drill...
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Can't remember now what the prv seat is like. Does the plunger just fit in a hole so the spring isn't compressed?
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If it all looks good I would reassemble everything as you say and give it a spin with out plugs. There's oil film still in the bearings so no problem with turning them without load👍
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I think even just a poorly sealing prv could allow air to be fed back to the pump inlet so that it struggles to prime itself...
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Paul I take it the prv seat inside the block looks ok and you can feel the spring being compressed as you screw it in?
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Yes mines always been a bolt...
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Yes worth checking prv for that reason but seems strange as it would have to stick open running and so give symptoms prior to the oil change....
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Think so but yes to checking prv as unlikely but it could give exactly these symptoms...
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In the manual it looks like the oil is drawn up the intake tube up the outside of the pump casing to where a T is machined. This is the entrance to the inlet at the top of the impeller but also continues up to match with a hole in the base of the block casting which is the discharge of the prv. It makes sense as the pump should always remain full of oil even if the sump is drained and is neater than dumping excess back directly to the sump...
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yes think that's right, with the prv removed the pump can suck in air so no chance of priming. However if you don't like the idea of bleeding from the filter there's a threaded blanking plug in the pump discharge gallery just above the prv. If this is taken out or loosened oil should be forced out when turning the engine...
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Hi María, I had exactly this problem on my Vitesse and I filed the lugs down to get the new cap to fit. I had an overheating problem and hoped a higher pressure would help but the fundamental problem was a knackered radiator...
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A dribble of oil might come out unless the engine is turning of course. As you undo it, if all is well, you'll feel the slight push of the spring as the plunger comes off its seat...
Leaf Spring Refurbishment
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Yes don't they make springs for Heralds, Vitesses or 90% of GT6 all of which were fitted with non swing springs?