johny
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Posts posted by johny
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4 hours ago, SpitFire6 said:
Average 20W50 is around twice as "thick" as SAE20 at 100c. Three times as thick at 40c.
That can't be right otherwise we'd really have problems using engine oil in our dashpots. A 20w50 tests like a straight 20 oil in the winter(w) test so as the temperature it's used at goes down the more similar they become in terms of viscosity.
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I think both oils are the same thickness at one temperature but then the multi grade will not thin nearly as much as the temperature goes up. Can't remember the temperatures used for testing but it's probable that at the relatively low temperature in a carb their consistency will be similar.
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Yes I wonder if a thicker oil would slow up the gear changes a little as I find that sometimes the lever inadvertently moves too quickly so not giving the synchro time to do it's job properly resulting in a crunch...
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9 minutes ago, Steve P said:
How many of our cars have clear drain holes?.
My Vitesse leaked more from the hood front rail when i was on the RBRR.
Also because i so rarely use the hood,its shrunk around the rear side bits.
Steve
Now cleaning out those drain holes should be a yearly routine maintenance job if you want to avoid rusty bottoms!
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28 minutes ago, ahebron said:
Oils cheap. Diffs aren't.
Triumph obviously weren't too worried though and I don't think back in the day diffs failing was an issue...
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Don't forget that average annual mileage figure given for classic cars and that even then most are just pootling.....
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
most water comes in from behind the door card and runs inside the door seal, then there is the holes for check straps , which have their own seal
then are the hinges sealed , should have a gasket on the bolt face, and so on , if you blow some talc around the inside the rain will leave a trickle trace of where its entering
saves you sleeping in the car with a torch
Pete
Surely the plastic sheet in the door should drain any water getting in down to the door drain holes which are outside the seals?
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I paid about 50 quid for my 3 row delivered off eBay but they might have gone up a bit since then
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Hi, yes Ive got one fitted about 3 years ago and Im very pleased with it. As you say far cheaper and lighter than an original with a pretty easy installation. I bonded a length of 50mm alloy angle to each side with epoxy metal which is rather stronger than it needs to be but allowed other sections of angle to be bolted into place to give the chassis mounting brackets and smaller ones for the side valance fixings. I bought some 30mm alloy tube and an additional Triumph radiator hose which I cut down for both the water connections. The original top hose was used without modification while only the top half of the lower one was needed for the return.
Ive got a Spal fan fitted between engine and rad with both the mechanical fan and its boss removed and its controlled by a Chinese adjustable electronic thermostat with sensor pushed into the rad fins.
It works well and cools far better than the old knackered radiator but obviously doesnt look original so I might change to an Escort aluminium radiator at sometime as these are a better fit although more expensive than the bargain Civic unit.
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Make sure you've got the door position as good as you can get it before any adjustments to the seal flange. I just slid plastic around to find the loose points and my doors are so tight the glass and quarter light deflect slightly on closing...
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I think the 1850 bell housing was different to move the clutch fork further away from the selector rod area and possibly give sufficient clearance for the extra height of the main casing which would explain why the mods are necessary.
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Have a look at the additional issues Graham had above. Turns out the dolomite clutch slave is in a different position on its bell housing than the 3 rail one....
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In fact now, as Ive got an 1850 non OD single rail box I want to use in my Vitesse (not a great fan of overdrive), I think I should put the internals in a 3 rail case and carry out some drastic surgery to the tail casting. It should avoid the previous issues except for propshaft length (I'll need a standard OD prop), clutch friction plate, speedo cable (opposite side of gearbox and different fitting), and there'll be a hole in the top of the rear casting that'll need sealing somehow....
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I do remember having those on my Vitesse but left them off after it's resto. My doors seal well, although I do try to avoid torrential rain, and I put it down to spending a lot of time getting the doors/quarter lights as far forwards as possible and then bending the seal flange in/out as required to ensure the rubber is in contact with the door all the way round. It means the doors need a bit more effort to close but stops leaks and reduces wind noise.
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Ok yes I can see the Dolomite bell housing looks like it has its slave cylinder mounting and aperture for the lever slightly further round to the horizontal so allowing what I believe is the same lever to be used without hitting anything. Interesting that the slave cylinders are different....
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Don't understand Peter, surely a single rail in a Gt6 is just selector rod housing, propshaft and in Grahams case speedo angle drive? No clutch or additional bell housing mods needed I think...
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I love it when answers match!
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Yes there's always some waggle as it's supported by a ball race bearing and, very close to it, a loose fit needle roller. However there definitely shouldn't be any actual radial movement in the main brg...
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I suppose it could be a single rail input with a modified 3 rail main shaft that uses a big tip bearing? Otherwise if it's an original Triumph unit it's a real mongrel!
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29 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Same splines? I fitted the Dolly 1850 J-type box to my Mk1 GT6 but needed a Dolomite plate for it as the splines were different.
The tip of the input shaft was damaged and I remember thinking: it will do for a while until I change it to either a GT6 one, if that will fit, or get a better Dolly one. That was 2001. Good value!
Are you talking about a 3 or single rail box though Colin? If it was a 3 then that really complicates the picture as maybe it had the bigger mainshaft tip as well!
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Louis perhaps you should get along to a meet to see a nice Vitesse? They can be set up to go and sound very good as, although not in the same league as a V8, the six is a bit special...
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19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
so you have a diaphragm clutch and a 18mm mainshaft spigot
i did that with mine but had a mike papworth stem gear so kept the 10 cut spline not the rolled spline input shaft
so Snap
Pete
I thought the 3 rail dolly box kept the 10 spline and small tip but got the bigger synchros and quieter gears? Then the later single rail did get those additional changes including being an inch longer (OD version)....
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Agreed but nice and simple. I believe the later rotoflex set up is quite a bit more complicated😱
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Well there aren't really any axial forces on the trunnions as any side load on the hub is transmitted to the diff by the half shaft....
Vitesse mk2 heater blowing cold
in Cooling System
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The heater/manifold has nothing to do with the thermostat as water is flowing the whole time before the thermostat opens. This allows the manifold to be heated as soon as the engine starts to warm up meaning you can push the choke it earlier...