johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Yes the 'earth' is the return as in this case it wont be connected directly to earth (vehicle chassis) cos it would then sound continuously whereas we want it to be controlled by the pressure switch....
As an aside normally wiring goes: supply, switch, light and then earth. This is more reliable but cars because of technical/cost constraints dont always follow this design and the weakness, as in the oil light circuit, is that if the return wire is damaged and shorts to earth before the pressure switch it will give a false alarm.
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When I say ignition switch the supply to the oil pressure light is actually coming from a fuse which is supplied from the ignition switch when turned on so of course you want to use this fused supply for the buzzer not directly from the igntion switch....
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sorry not very clear, buzzer should be connected BOTH sides of warning light. This means the buzzer live wire connected anywhere between the ignition switch and the bulb and the buzzer return wire anywhere between the bulb and pressure switch. The electricity will just split and the right amount will go to both the bulb and the buzzer when the pressure switch detects low pressure and connects to earth.
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The live goes to warning light and then to the pressure switch so that when pressure drops the switch earths through the engine and current flows through the bulb. A buzzer could just be connected either side of the warning light all in the dash ie live from ignition switch to one side and back to the pressure switch wire on the other. Then on low pressure current will flow through the bulb and, in parallel, the buzzer down to earth to make the circuit....
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yes but you have to be careful the surgeon puts it in the right place...
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Beaten to it but at least we agree!
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I looked up in my free to download online workshop manual for the Vitesse which also has the single speed wipers and theres a 12v+ve supply to the green wire while the black/green wire goes off to the switch which earths when operated. Using these two connections will make the motor run and connecting the third, black wire, to -ve as well will test the wiper parking control as the motor should run on a bit after disconnecting the black/green wire. This should always be done with a correctly fused supply to avoid thermal testing....
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No the gearbox is pretty noisy if driving with the cover off but once on I dont get any rattles loud enough to hear. How about getting the car securely up on axle stands, then get it in 4th and have a listen....
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I cant see it can be done 'inside the tunnel'. The cable would have to come straight out of the side of the tunnel and under the carpet and possibly would need to be much longer than standard.....
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yeh its a difficult one, you can have years of experience and think you know it all and then break something! On the other hand after a while, hopefully, it happens less often😁
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ok then the cover will need the bolts doing up to pull it flat to the flywheel. Its always like that and has to be because otherwise there would be no clamping force on the friction plate. If your old cover isnt like that then theres something wrong with it (which may also explain the strange contact marks of the spring fingers) and Im surprised it wasnt slipping in use....
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As I said, are you sure the friction plate is in the right way round? I would double check as theres been two cases recently of this mistake so its easily done.....
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Thats it, you can have the cable made to any length and, if it'll clear the chassis rail, could to do away with the potentially troublesome angle gear. If you sell the angle gear I reckon it'll even cover the price of the new cable....
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Maybe he means the cover wont go down flush onto the flywheel by hand which I think is normal (as long as the friction plate is in the right way round of course (smooth side to flywheel?)). You have to use the fixing bolts to draw it down the last little bit because thats what ensures the friction plate is clamped tight and wont slip in use.
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should do it a treat although I suppose the brown will tend to come out darker than expected....
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I used Vinylkote back in the day to brush paint my headlining and it was very good. Theyre still around and do aerosols and I saw car trim being successfully recoloured on CarSOS recently (although cant remember which product they used) but it did need quite a few coats....
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Nothings easy is it! As you need a longer cable anyway would it be possible to connect it directly without an angle drive? Possibly it could even come out through the side of the gearbox cover and along to the dash under the carpet....
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Ouch! Is there that much of a rush you cant wait for the proper gaskets to turn up? Why not change the front and rear oil seals at the same time, its easy to do and can save a lot of hassle later. Also have a look at the gaps between the bronze synchro rings and the gears they engage with. You can push them with your finger and the smaller the gap the more worn they are with second usually being the worst. If theres minimal gap the synchronisation wont work very well and you get crunchy gear changes but unfortunately changing them involves dismantling the internals....
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From the position shown in your photo youve got to lift the gearbox a little so the gearbox mounting rubber's threaded stems lift out of the mounting bracket. By the time youve done this the flanges should just about clear. Id do it by jacking the rear of the engine (between sump and backplate?) so that when the gearbox comes away the engine will be supported rather than just relying on the engine mounts....
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Great, so what you found seems to agree with the instructions that came with the rockers and they must have been making contact with the valve heads when in a slightly above horizontal position....
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Hi Graham, just to drag this old thread up again, as now that hopefully youve got some miles on the new gearbox, I wondered how its worked out? How do you rate the gearchange of the single rail with the original 3?
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yes if youre worried about cleaning it out (not a bad idea after spending so much time off the road) its not a big job to remove the tank and then inspect/clean it through the level gauge hole...
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Hmmm youre not alone there! After all these years it will be well rusted in and although its a normal thread (anti clockwise to undo) you do risk damaging the tank trying to take it out so is it really necessary?
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Its why Im only a 1st Dan😔
Audible buzzer for oil pressure
in Electrical System
Posted
Youre right, best to leave the original wiring alone as much as possible. Ive just noticed that on my car the supply to the oil light doesnt come through the fuse but directly from the ignition switch (white wires) and you'd better stick to this. To do it properly you should connect to this supply but use an inline fuse before wiring to the buzzer....