johny
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Posts posted by johny
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yes your car may only run at 90º so the running pressure wont get near 7lb but our systems arent sealed ones as they use an overflow bottle. What this means is that on starting the engine the system (which should have no air in it) warms up and the water expands slightly and must find an escape. It can generate an enormous pressure but in our case only reaches a pressure sufficent to open the radiator cap so that the excess can be dumped to the bottle. Therefore the greater rated cap used the higher the pressure the whole system (radiator, hoses, core plugs, head gasket, water pump seal etc) is subjected to.....
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I believe the OPs problem was that he didnt know when to stop screwing on the trunnion as they dont come to a positive stop but just get tighter and tighter! Hence he couldnt judge at what point he should back off each trunnion to get its driving position.
Thinking about it I suspect these are not OE quality parts but would inspect the threads, male and female, anyway to make sure theres no damage or dirt in there....
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2 hours ago, Gary Flinn said:
Johny
I should imagine it was because the Volatge Regulator coil and current limiting coil couldn't operate correctly because of the broken earth wire shown in my photo.
It looks like one of the Resistors on the rear of the Unit was getting very hot, although it's still intact.
Previously we were getting readings of 17 Volts at the regulator 'B' terminal to earth and the Ammeter showed a charge of 25 Amps so not good!
I just hope it's not damaged anything else in the Electrical system🤨
I've had my mate repair the link wire and tried it again.
Now the Ignition light stays on all the time so I think there is still something wrong with the N.O.S. Regulator!!😯😢
I've rang the supplier up and they have agreed to a refund, but I've decided to have a Modern Electronic version off them, this is about twice the price of the N.O.S. one, so they're going to knock the money I paid for the N.O.S. one off the new Electronic Version.
It's all very frustrating, I just hope the Electronic Regulator solves the problem?!!
A Photo of the rear of the N.O.S. Regulator showing the Resistor that was getting hot and also the Electronic one I've decided to try.
If anyone with better knowledge of Car Electrics than myself thinks it may be something other than the Regulator please let me know?
When I tested the Dynamo after I cleaned up the Commutator and put the new brushes in it worked off the car as an electric motor would when I connected a Battery and once back on the car gave out just over 14 Volts at Tick-over speed (900 RPM) so I'm sure the Dynamo is working correctly?
Gary
Sorry I thought it was the original that had the broken wire. So was it the same failure on the original that caused it to smoke as well? If it was thats very strange.....
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yes I believe this is critical when ordering some engine spares....
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yes dont think its essential they come to a positive stop just as long as the top rubber seal is far enough up to seal on the smooth part of the vertical link above the threaded section and, as Doug says, can still turn 60º either way without binding....
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Gary, did you find out why the NOS replacement VR was smoking as well?
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I thought it must be different but Barry is lucky enough to have a Vitesse🤗
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6 minutes ago, Gully said:
I bought some polyurethane bonnet cones from Rimmers thinking they'd be harder, but they came with a metric thread and were unusable - returned for a refund and bought the Club ones.
Gully
I think with the Vitesse you can just use a metric nut in place of the original imperial one.....
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Hmmm sounds like someone has been slamming it into reverse - it needs a gentle touch, patience and the vehicle stationary when selecting....
With the rings there have been problems reported with the quality of repro replacements (the machining and material has to be spot on) so sometimes used originals are preferable. In fact you can inspect them and swop the most worn (usually second) for first or 4th.
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yes please let us know how you get on with the replacement hinges as its always good to know about the quality of repro parts👍
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New pins alone are going to reduce the play and then by adjusting the hinges as Pete says you can get the doors sitting as true and flush as possible so that there is good seal contact all the way round. This may even require moving the quarterlight assembly but should result in better rain proofing and less wind noise👍
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Will you be doing anything else in the box apart from springs and pin? Was it perfect other than the whirring noise beforehand? For example you could check/swop around/replace synchro rings.....
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Hi, it does sound like your door has dropped but you should be able to compensate for this a certain amount by adjusting the door hinges. The fixing bolts allow movement so that you can angle the door higher but it is a bit fiddly as the door needs to be supported while loosening the hinges. One way is to get the door sitting correctly in the door way closed then undoing the hinge bolts enough to allow the hinges to be moved to take up the play in the pins.
Of course it sounds like you have a lot of play and replacing the pins/hinges would be a better long term option.....
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Hi, Im wondering why you took the box apart now as the whirring sound, if not there with the clutch released, would seem to have been produced by the thrust bearing (is the bearing smooth to spin?).
With the missing items 1/ are optional with some boxes having them installed from new and others not. They are intended to load the laygear thrust bearing to stop the gear rattling around when in neutral.
However the pin in 2/ is always required to stop the layshaft spinning in its casing mounting holes (check this hasnt happened and the holes/shaft arent worn) but if the shaft was a tight fit its probably not moved anyway. The missing pin is sometimes to be found in the bottom of the gearbox somewhere....
The two main areas of wear in these gearboxes are the mainshaft tip and the layshaft, in both cases where the needle rollers run directly on the shafts as once the case hardening is damaged the softer metal inside can wear quite rapidly.
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Difficult to see what fault a dynamo could have to overload a reg as any winding problem in the dynamo should produce less power not more! I suppose if you had a reg that was underrated for the size of dynamo fitted you could cook the reg....
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yes could be current regulating contact not opening so not controlling correctly. You need the WS manual (Vitesse/GT6 available to download) which gives a very good description of testing and, if your brave enough, adjusting the regulator....
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it sounds like you have the completely wrong kit as both the Mk 1 and 2 Vitesse use the same rear brakes shoes. Maybe its for a very late GT6 which I believe had wider shoes....
Have you got any part numbers?
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I think you need to cut the trunnion bolts - very common problem so there should be a good description of the procedure if you search on here......
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Rad area is always preferable to rows (not sure but by what ratio and of course all the area needs to be exposed to air flow) so I reckon the herald rad will cool better however it needs to fit first.....
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could the rad be moved backwards slightly as I believe that will a bit more clearance at both top and bottom plus get more cooling from the fan. Of course you have to take into account any possible engine movement.....
Otherwise as Peter says a cheap aluminium version (from 80 pounds delivered?) seems to have the cap a lot lower.
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1 hour ago, theestimator said:
Following info from Dave Rumens I have discovered that during a build in 2007 a Herald diff was put into my Mk 2 Vitesse and now I am wondering if there is any other diff with 3.27 ratio that will fit as when I try and purchase an exchange one the sellers are not interested in a herald diff and want be to buy outright.(750 to 1000).. I live in the North of Scotland but willing to travel to pickup the correct diff> Thanks Gordon Corbett
Hi, I take it that you realise that a 3.27 ratio unit is not the standard one for a Vitesse? They had a 3.89 installed on all 2L models and versions.....
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No its nothing spectacular just repairing split rubber seals like the Vitesse bonnet to scuttle seal, making my own front wheel arch seals from two pieces to save buying a huge piece of rubber sheet, repairing bonnet location cones (going to try making these myself next time they fail), patchless bicycle inner tube repairs, custom o rings (in fact at work it comes in long length kits which include superglue for joining) etc. The only two things it seems to stick really well are skin (what it was invented for?) and rubber.....
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28 minutes ago, clive said:
But isn't that a D type OD? The dolomite box had the J type.
So it is probably a recon box built into a dolomite case. Happened a lot when the cars were less old and the recon business was doing a roaring trade...
Although with that strange serial number who knows what Triumph were producing in the D to J overdrive change over....
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Ive had great success with superglue for repairing/forming rubber components but this is probably beyond that....
Slow cranking Vitesse
in Engine
Posted
You could also measure the volts during cranking at battery terminals and at the starter motor terminal for comparison (an analogue voltmeter might be best for this). If its low at battery then it could be a starter load problem or the battery itself. Ive squeezed in an Exide EA755 75Ah 630 cranking amp battery in my Vitesse or you might even get in a EA770, how does that compare with yours?