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Phil C

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Phil C last won the day on August 11 2019

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Lyme Regis
  • Cars Owned
    1969 Herald 13/60 Con
    1970 Vitesse Mk2 Con
    1958 XK 150 fhc

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  1. Pete, Many thanks for the quick response (as per usual! 👍)
  2. Hi All, Quick question please. Is it possible to replace a Mk2 Vitesse leaf spring with just one lifting tool? Workshop manual suggests two are required but I was thinking one side at a time? Thanks
  3. Thanks all for your input. Colin, your order of priority is the logic I am following and I was looking to move the door forward. The wider picture below illustrates this is possible with a little re-shaping of the leading edge of the door at the top (a pinch point with bonnet!) As you say the tub can then move forward to suit. My concern is that because I have repaired the top front area of the door carcass I may have created the problem you describe, i.e. not being able to move the 1/4 light forward to form the correct A-post gap. Its currently located at its max forward position within the door. Looking at Marks's car I am not sure I would achieve the same gap just moving the door forward. I could move the bonnet forward to allow further movement but then the bonnet/scuttle gap would be too large 🤯. As PeteH suggested, raising the door could also help but would require the bonnet to be raised to match swage lines. This would then cause problem with the scuttle/bonnet alignment 🤯. The Cill gap would not be a problem however as I am leaving the fitting of the door skin repair panel until everything else is ok and the I can align it to suit 😎. Scaling from Mark's photos I would guess his gap around 6-8mm? Can anyone confirm this is what I should be aiming for as my gap is currently 15mm? Tilting the bulkhead with packers to get the gap parallel is something I hadn't considered yet, thanks PeteL, I can add to this to my armoury as I imagine the final solution is going to be a combination of all of the above. I am beginning to realise why a Herald/Vitesse with good panel gaps is a very rare sight!!!
  4. Evening All, Trial fitting drivers door today and given all my Lockdown Welding to the Bulkhead and Tub and the fact that the door came from another car it has gone reasonably well! However, some help with the 1/4 light would be appreciated. Can anybody help with what the gaps annotated below should be? My concern is the gap to the A-post is too big and currently I have no further adjustment but without the seals I can't be certain. In addition, what should the height difference be with the screen? Thanks again.
  5. Thanks Guys for the offer of dimensions/source of new brackets. Fortunately I have access to a 13/60 donor chassis and will introducing it to my trusty angle grinder shortly 🤠
  6. Evening All Trial fitting of panels and trim continues ahead of prep and paint. Today I was trying to fit the front overriders and think the mountings may have been butchered in a previous life. This seems to be confirmed by Fig 9 in the WSM. Not sure why somebody would carry out such an alteration. The car did not come with overriders so I have been blissfully unaware of this issue throughout the restoration so far. Am I correct or am I missing something? Thanks again. . Extract from WSM above, my car below.
  7. Just received the new hinges from Canley Classics and they appear to be well made. The studs/thread look good. Although they are not marked left and right it is quite clear which is which as the photo below illustrates. Good value at £27.56 I think 😀
  8. Thanks Guys, The point about being handed is interesting and probably makes sense with the body curvature. Just had a look at mine but they are so loose its impossible to tell left from right. Mr Haynes appears to ignore the point! Just ordered a pair from Canley's so fingers crossed for a decent reproduction and I will fettle the threads as necessary.
  9. Just trial fitting my boot this morning and both hinges have seen better days. Replacement hinges appear very reasonable when compared to the likely cost of repair/rechroming the originals. This makes me slightly suspicious re quality 🤔 Any experience/advice out there? Thanks
  10. I am at a similar stage with my Vitesse and have used Tetrosyl Etch Primer applied with a brush. However I have been told that body filler should not be applied over etch primer and therefore it must all be removed in areas requiring filler - which are plenty in my case! Others say its not necessary. What thoughts/experience out there?
  11. Pete, Agreed, excuse my ignorance but can I edit the title?
  12. Hi All, Hope you all had an enjoyable socially distanced Christmas! A while back I was discussing using a Herald body as a donor for my Vitesse restoration. Included in this was the ease in which a Herald bonnet could be converted to a Vitesse bonnet. It proved a difficult thing to describe so having had a go I thought the following would help anyone else attempting the same. Three main elements to consider. 1. Headlights are smaller requiring alterations to the front end of the wings. 2. Support stiffeners between front panel and wheel arch are significantly bigger on the Vitesse. 3. Side lights are offset further on the Vitesse requiring further alteration to the wings. The difference in headlight diameter is clear from this photo as is the need to offset the sidelight. If possible you could cut sections from your Vitesse bonnet to guide the alterations. Unfortunately mine was too far gone. The other consideration here is the seating of the sidelight. It requires a flat base, and you can see the herald wing is curving up to the point it joins the front panel. The two support panels side by side. Vitesse on the right. Luckily I could salvage these from my Vitesse bonnet. This is where I am at present, not pretty but solid. I haven't managed to get a flat base for the side light so needs more work. Phil
  13. Thanks all. I have decided to start with new pins and see where that gets me. Colin, as you say that might sort it without further work. Ed, your links were prefect, thanks for those. As mentioned above, GT6 hinges are the same and your idiot guide for hinge refurbishment was just the ticket😀. First lets see how easy they are to remove 🤨 Pete, you have a good memory as I have just looked at them and they do indeed have spline on one end. A couple of mine also have a dab weld as well! Hopefully that was done because the pins were falling out and when I grind it off they will fall out again!!
  14. Hi All The hinges on my Vitesse restoration are badly worn. I bought a set from a well known parts supplier and was shocked at the quality. None would permit full door movement without a bit of fettling and one had as much free play as my original ones. To be fair the suppler quickly refunded me and apologised but confessed that they were the only ones currently being manufactured. As the price appears the same from all current retailers I am guessing they all come from the same place? Anyone recently obtained decent hinges? Plan B is to refurbish my existing hinges and I note it is possible to buy new hinge pins. Before I break something I was hoping for some words of wisdom from those who know. Do the pins just press out and if so does it matter in which direction? Im thinking simply replacing the pins may not help if there is wear within the hinge body itself and may be some form of collar/sleeve may be needed. If so, sounds like a lathe and more skill might be needed - way above my ability. Is there a DIY route or should I be visiting my local engineering facility? Thanks in advance.
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