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Phil C

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Everything posted by Phil C

  1. Thanks for the confirmation as to that is how it should be. It just seemed odd when I first assembled it as I didn't expect a thrust bearing constantly in play. All back together now.
  2. The bearing is 19mm thick and there is a spring inside the slave cylinder (both new). If it is intended the spring pushes out the rod to remain in contact with the activating arm then the thrust bearing must remain in contact with the clutch. If not then the arm will haver free movement between the restriction of the rod and the clutch, albeit a small amount. Is it therefore intended that the thrust bearing remains in contact with the clutch at all times? In my other (non Triumph) classic, the slave cylinder push rod is fixed to the actuating arm so that it holds the bearing away from the clutch when not in use.
  3. Evening all, I am reintroducing my gearbox to the engine and trying to understand the clutch actuation. Unfortunately I didn't take it apart and having not owned a Vitesse before I am struggling to understand how it should work. With no fixed connection between the clutch fork and the slave cylinder push rod and no return spring attached to the fork it would appear the fork/bearing is free to rattle back and forth when not in use? Unless of course it sits against the cover plate diaphragm which surely can't be right? Engine currently out of car so can't connect up hydraulically and see how it all works/sits. I'm obviously being a bit dim but just can't see it at the moment πŸ€“ Please help.
  4. Sorry Guys but Ive been off grid for a couple of weeks R&R so just caught up with the chat. As one UJ definitely requires replacing I would guess the other will not be far off and should also be replaced at the same time. Therefore, on balance (no pun intended!), I think the advice to replace with new makes most sense on all fronts. Thanks
  5. Progress going well but another question if I may? What is the route for the pipe to the front offside from the 4-way junction? Should it run the uprights and along the top of the cross member or cross to the rear of the uprights? Thanks
  6. Thanks both for your help, very useful πŸ‘
  7. Evening all, With the bulkhead and tub about to be reunited with the chassis I was looking to fit the brake and petrol pipe runs front to back along the chassis while access is good. As my car had no pipes when bought I am struggling with understanding how they are aligned and fixed. The parts catalogue lists a number of different clips, some petrol only, some brake only and some dual use and the clips which came with each pipe kit (Automec) seem a little flimsy. Holes along the chassis number 4. Two larger holes between the outriggers and one smaller hole either to the front and rear. I have a selection of clips available, some that came with the car, some that came with the pipe kits and some I have picked up at auto jumbles thinking they may be useful. Can anyone offer any advice or perhaps photos of what goes where? ........or should I just user P-clips Thanks in advance Phil
  8. Ah! I did briefly consider they were some form of crude balancing! I think I could probably replace them in their original position using my photos and the marks left on the shaft - that is if no other work is required to the shaft. Thanks for clarifying this point - my Haynes manual helpfully provides a diagram showing the sliding end towards the gearbox but then contradicts this in the accompanying text!!
  9. Afternoon All Just started to look at refurbishing the propshaft as part of the ongoing (never ending?) restoration project. It has two large jubilee clips attached at the slider end? I thought they may be covering up some problem but on removal all appears good. Before I proceed I would like to try and understand why they might be there. Anyone have any thoughts before I spend time/money? Also I think the previous owner had installed the propshaft the back to front - shouldn't the slider be at the gearbox end? Thanks Phil
  10. Thanks Colin, I feel a little better about it now, just thought if there was a problem it would be easier to sort now with the the body off! I am fortunate as the shocks keep the driveshafts just clear of the chassis so movement is easier !
  11. Hi again, Can I just ask another question now the spring is installed? Currently fitted to just the running chassis (i.e. minimum weight) I was a little surprised as to the amount of tension in the spring as I bolted it down on the diff. Standing on the chassis I cannot generate any suspension movement. Is this normal or should I be concerned? Thanks
  12. Thanks guys, definitely no mark on my rack. Installed with nut facing back......makes sort of sense as will be out of make road spray??
  13. Afternoon All, Just refitting the leaf spring too my vitesse and the manual states it should have "front" identified to ensure it fits the correct way round. I cannot find any such mark oil the spring. Is there a standardised location? I appreciate it is very unlikely the spring is a Triumph original so it may be located differently (or not at all). However, looking at the spring it appears to be pretty symmetrical which ever way around I fit it!! As usual , thanks in advance for any help. Phil
  14. 😱 certainly is! And impossible to find locally. Ebay to the rescue (again) All thoroughly cleaned, 574 applied and re-assembled. Oil replenished and fingers crossed. Colin, compared to yours I think mine are pretty flat πŸ™„
  15. This did cross my mind too. I have checked them visually with a straight edge and they appear ok - but this has limited accuracy. I will re-clean all surfaces and try the 574 and see how we get on. Would like to conclude before the rear tub goes back on as working access is currently at its best!! 😁 Thanks all for your help πŸ‘
  16. Afternoon All As part of my ongoing Vitesse restoration I replaced the inner driveshaft seals last year and have not really paid much attention to them since. However, I have just noticed a slight oil drip from each. Inspection would suggest it is coming from behind the retaining plate rather than along the shaft, i.e. perhaps not the new seals? It seems odd there is no gasket for the retaining plate as it is my understanding that it does have to retain oil. Am I missing something here or is it a case of copious use of sealant? Thanks in advance for any help Phil
  17. Update to conclude. Following the sound advice received earlier I have been practicing the noisy, not so dark art of butchery with mixed results. I attacked the scuttle first with a piece of wood (12") with carpet on top to soften the interface. With a trusty helper on one side and a sharp intake of breath pressure was applied. Quite a lot in the end but we started very lightly. I was reasonably happy with the result. Not perfect but much improved. I was hoping the scuttle change would have improved the bonnet sides, but no, they remained as before . The bonnet edge is not easy to re-shape due to the strengthener running vertical adjacent to the trailing edge. I decided to make selective cuts into the strengthener which permitted movement to the bonnet edge. Once manipulated into a more agreeable profiles the cuts were welded up. I had less success here but there is some improvement. One problem which doesn't help is the profile of the new door skin differs from that of the bonnet. In particular the depth of the lower crease (step out) is significantly different!! See photo below looking down. This means I can only line up the centre section of the door or the lower section of the door, but not both🀨 Having said that I can probably live with how it is now.
  18. Hmmm. I was thinking of may be shaping the block to the same profile as the scuttle? I think the two person either side approach would be best, probably more controllable than a strap? I think I will have a go at this and then, as Pete suggested, review the lower wings to see if it has also improved. I feel the lower wing adjustment has the greatest likelihood to go horribly wrong! Bread and butter to the skilled no doubt but scary stuff for me 😰
  19. Thanks Pete, I did put a piece of ply under the centre of the bonnet but just to bring it up to the correct level not to re-profile it. A possible but not satisfactory permanent solution 🀠🀠 I must admit I am terrified of introducing a crease!! Any thoughts on the length of wood to use. I'm guessing a point load in the centre should be avoided but anything too long could introduce two point loads at either end.
  20. Afternoon All Still going through pre paint panel fitting/gap checking. What a job! I am reasonably happy with everything now apart from the bonnet. The panel gap to the doors/scuttle are ok but its the profile which is giving me the problem. When the height is set correctly on the cones on either side the bonnet sags and is too low in the centre. See photo below. Similarly, each side profile is much straighter than the corresponding door, particularly the lower section. See photo below I can see where it needs to be fettled but fear, with my limited knowledge/skill, I may do more harm than good! Any advice from those that know? Thanks in advance. Phil
  21. Pete, Many thanks for the quick response (as per usual! πŸ‘)
  22. Hi All, Quick question please. Is it possible to replace a Mk2 Vitesse leaf spring with just one lifting tool? Workshop manual suggests two are required but I was thinking one side at a time? Thanks
  23. Thanks all for your input. Colin, your order of priority is the logic I am following and I was looking to move the door forward. The wider picture below illustrates this is possible with a little re-shaping of the leading edge of the door at the top (a pinch point with bonnet!) As you say the tub can then move forward to suit. My concern is that because I have repaired the top front area of the door carcass I may have created the problem you describe, i.e. not being able to move the 1/4 light forward to form the correct A-post gap. Its currently located at its max forward position within the door. Looking at Marks's car I am not sure I would achieve the same gap just moving the door forward. I could move the bonnet forward to allow further movement but then the bonnet/scuttle gap would be too large 🀯. As PeteH suggested, raising the door could also help but would require the bonnet to be raised to match swage lines. This would then cause problem with the scuttle/bonnet alignment 🀯. The Cill gap would not be a problem however as I am leaving the fitting of the door skin repair panel until everything else is ok and the I can align it to suit 😎. Scaling from Mark's photos I would guess his gap around 6-8mm? Can anyone confirm this is what I should be aiming for as my gap is currently 15mm? Tilting the bulkhead with packers to get the gap parallel is something I hadn't considered yet, thanks PeteL, I can add to this to my armoury as I imagine the final solution is going to be a combination of all of the above. I am beginning to realise why a Herald/Vitesse with good panel gaps is a very rare sight!!!
  24. Evening All, Trial fitting drivers door today and given all my Lockdown Welding to the Bulkhead and Tub and the fact that the door came from another car it has gone reasonably well! However, some help with the 1/4 light would be appreciated. Can anybody help with what the gaps annotated below should be? My concern is the gap to the A-post is too big and currently I have no further adjustment but without the seals I can't be certain. In addition, what should the height difference be with the screen? Thanks again.
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