Phil C

Not aware of this. Can you expand please?

😳😳

Yes the bearing has the domed face. I have taken the clutch and flywheel off and had a look at the spigot bush. How snug should the fit be? It’s difficult to measure My clutch aligning tool fits ok but is about 8 thou bigger than end of the gearbox shaft. I did order a new one today which will be here tomorrow. I can then check the fit properly .

It’s a Borg & Beck. Gearbox out this afternoon and nothing stands out as a obvious problem. This was one of my thoughts because when I disconnected the slave cylinder and manually pressed the thrust bearing against the clutch with the engine running it wasn’t a smooth engagement. But the clutch cover looks fine with all fingers level so I’m guessing that’s normal? The carrier is in good condition and fits the slider snugly. The thrust bearing is fitted correctly and is in good condition (only done 1500 miles) The pivot is firm and in good condition. The only minor issue was the retaining spring clip on the clutch fork had one arm slightly bent so possibly not gripping the pivot securely. It was also lacking grease in the knuckle (which could squeak?) Fixed now. So not very conclusive but also reassuring that nothing appears untoward. Going to sleep on it and probably reassemble tomorrow.

Good point. Will check when I get sight of it all. Box coming out today 😫

Yes, new clutch and thrust bearing. problem is you start to doubt yourself…..did I put it all back together correctly!!

I considered fitting an external spring to hold the fork against the clutch cover, but it didn’t seem to help. I think I’m going to remove the gearbox tomorrow if only to check nothing is about to go bang.

Thanks Iain, appreciate your input. Will let you know if I ever sort it. Doing the RBRR next week so that should sort it one way or the other 😳

It does. As soon as the bearing begins to press the fingers it stops

The noise is more of a high pitch squeak than a rattle but no doubt caused by the rattle. I thought about fixing a spring to the fork at the slave end to apply the pressure you suggest but I couldn't apply enough pressure to stop the noise (without pressing the clutch pedal)

It looks about the same as the slave end in the video. I guess its pivoted about half way so the movement is equal either end. The fixing to the pivot pin is not tight, should it be?

There is no movement of the pivot pin. It feels like the fingers of the clutch cover are not running true (new clutch also) Is the shaking not "normal"? I'm at the stage of dismantling where I'm thinking I should just go ahead and remove the gearbox. I will then be able to check everything. Reason for the post was hopefully for someone to tell me this wouldn't necessary because...........(fill in the blank🫤)

No. But to be sure I put a little grease on the contact area. It's difficult to be sure as the only way to stop it is to press the clutch slightly. The bearing is new, but that doesn't guarantee anything these days! The fork shakes slightly (as per the video) so the noise could come from its connection with the carrier? Would a worn spigot bearing present this sort of problem?

The carrier is not rotating but the bearing is touching the cover and is rotating.

Afternoon All, I had this problem back in March when I first started the engine after a rebuild. (last ran 1983) The general opinion was that it was normal and would disappear once the bearing bedded in. I have now covered around 1500 miles and the noise remains, if not getting worse, and its driving me mad! Today I removed the transmission tunnel (to fix a broken speedo drive) and took the opportunity to inspect the squeaking clutch actuator. I am not sure whether it is the thrust bearing or the clutch fork making the noise. The fork shakes when not engaged which may be the source of the noise - video attached. Having no previous Triumph experience I am not sure what is "normal". Any thoughts as to if I have a problem here? Thanks. Apologies for the size of the Vid, not sure what happened 🤓 outputVideo.mp4

Agreed. I have now fitted a third relay and have two feeds direct from the fuse box. Feed 1 for relay 1 (Dip) and relay 2 (outer main). Feed 2 for relay 3 (inner main). Nothing is now getting warm 🙂 Thank you all for your input.

Just checked and the feed wire has 28 strands. On the limit I suppose. Still going with two feeds and two relays for main beam. Belt and braces approach 🫤

I bought a kit from a very well known spares supplier. They sell lots of them so hopefully they are ok. Not guaranteed though as there is a lot of rubbish sold these days !

As Pete says I think the drive head was seized. A bit of WD40 and it freed up. I gave it some continuous use using my electric drill, lightly oiling occasionally. (my drill can do 65mph....who knew!) I'll replace it with a new cable and see what happens 🤞 Thanks all.

The thing is the dip beam relay doesn't get anywhere near as warm. For my peace of mind Ive ordered another relay and will have two for main beam. Each will have its own direct feed and supply two of the four lights. It may not be necessary but its cheap and should ensure all will be well. I'm doing the RBRR in three weeks time so need the lights to be reliable!

Mine has o/d which makes access tight 🥴. I might gain access by just lifting the back - it’s plastic so has some flex by the air diverter. Yes, it appeared to be the case. Just worried it will happen again without a full strip down/ refurb.

Hi All My speedo stopped working yesterday (675miles since back on the road after a 35 year layup) breaking the cable. Having removed it I have manage to free the drove with penetrating oil and gentle persuasion. Before I replace the cable, a pig of a job requiring transmission tunnel removal etc, is my fix likely to last or does the speedo need a strip down/specialist help? Any experience on the matter? Many thanks.

Very interesting read but as I am still not sure please can I bring this topic back to life briefly? I have just fitted headlight relays to my Vitesse. and have concerns re power draw for main beam. I bought a two relay kit with each relay rated at 40A cont/80A peak. Ive fitted them under the dash cutting the supply from the column switch and using that to activate the relays. I then ran a single supply from the fuse box to the relays and each relay connects to the relevant feed to the front of the car. The wire used for the feed/connections was sourced an old loom (main beam feed) so should be the correct gauge (?) My question is when on main beam (220w) is it normal for the feed wire to be warm and the relay a little warmer? My headlights are upgraded with H1/H4 bulbs and the wiring loom is new. Am I worrying about nothing or is my car about to burst into flames!! 🔥

Quick question….after fitting a new head gasket is it necessary to re-torque after say, 500 miles? Or do modern gasket materials make this redundant?

Had a closer look to see if I could identify where the play was occuring and found the pedal clevis pin hole was badly worn. I had been driving the car without carpet/sound felt which had allowed sufficient pedal movement so the problem went unnoticed. However having just fitted the interior it soon became apparent. I have now welded up the hole, re-drilled to the correct size and all seems to work as it should.