jmh
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Everything posted by jmh
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Yep! Goes for all years though! Was just a quick drawing!
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Make sure the lower edge of the sill will go like:
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Did Triumph factory use brazing on bodywork?
jmh replied to daverclasper's topic in Bodywork & Fittings
Early cars were spot welded - must have been to expensive or not good enough? 🙂 -
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-137811 , or Canley should have?
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Yep. If you trim this off, your will have to press the new outer sill up resulting in a poor door fit.
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They are not supposed to be curved, but they are - even from factory 🙂 On a very original mk 3, I had 1/4 inch in difference between floor and lip at the middle /front and rear, making the difference on the picture below up to 1/2 an inch. And - don't try to push lower lip of outer sill up to the floor as the new floor panels flange are not as deep as original: See picture:
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They are welded on, make sure they can pass the lower lip on the rear valance/inner wing. Usally a rust trap 🙂
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Did the same - still have a few spares 🙂
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EBC4871 Valve spring - but believe they are no longer available.
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Not sure, will take a look.
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When I bought County pistons for my mk 3 spitfire FD engine, it had a note inside the box providing the clearance. It was less than stated in the workshop manual.
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One for sale in Denmark - but shipping might be an issue 🙂 https://www.dba.dk/bagklap-rear-hatch-triumph/id-1062144186/ No pictures though, don't know the seller either.
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Build up from inside out. Floor first, though IMHO you need good doors to start with. Take your time, keep bonnet on so you can check with the front panel /bonnet too. Use lots of self cutting screws 🙂 And remember the outer sill need to go further down than the floor:
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http://www.fairpoint.net/~herald948/database/chassis.htm Service Note 🙂
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I have done a few - often its the ground (internal) wire, soldered to the casting, that comes lose. Take care when you assemble the casting: Using pop rivets with care; its very easy to break the plastic housing.
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@wimpus I might have a used pair of later boot lid hinges, free to a good home, but postage might be expensive. In Copenhagen, Denmark. PM if nothing else turns up.
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Is this usable? SKMBT_C35210082415530.pdf
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Make sure you have the lock, door cards and trim on before you weld. Never had that issue with OE sills, but lots of warped doors though! Then - remember sill will go further down than the floor section; but new floor pans only has about 1/2'' flange
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Yes. And no. Don't remove the paint, if its e-coat, it will be a very good protection. Remember outer sill needs to be further down than floor pan/inner sill - see drawing:
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Good bargin! And yes, the one in DK is way to expensive: Tried to negotiate the price, but seller wouldn't listen...
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One for sale in Denmark - original item, rust free (seller well known in the danish triumph community). http://www.veteranposten.dk/visAnn.asp?Id=279187 (Sit down before you reed the price - one pound about 8 dkr.)
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2. row - 3. from right: Holding cable to starter motor from solenoid to top bulkhead panel (just above gearbox tunnel) on my mk 3 spitfire :-)
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Yep, but worth more than a halv £, so would guess still an expensive washer? :-) /Jens - Copenhagen
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Before you start welding the rear wing to the b-post (striker plate), make sure you have enough room for door cards and rubber. A common error too (pressing the wing in) :-) Don't expect the new panels to be right - flanges on the new floor pans not deep enough (notice that the bottom corner of the outer sill should not end up flush with the edge of the floor pan - see drawing). New inner sills often missing some mm of the top flange too. Nice boots btw :-)
