rolyberkin
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Posts posted by rolyberkin
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14 hours ago, thescrapman said:
Mechanical throttle linkage.
try new engine andgearbox mounts then convert to a mk4 pedal and cable setup.
Plan to check the carbs and timing etc at the weekend, It has new engine mounts but will check gearbox mounts, silly question, is the linkage to cable an easy conversion and does it require new parts or sourcing second-hand ones, is there a list of components or how to guide anywhere or anyone have any photos?
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I am not that mechanically minded with engines so bear with me.
My Mk3 spitfire is a bit of a pain to drive, to pull away if you press the accelerator very slowly it will pull away slowly, if you put your foot down it semi kangeroos down the road.
My diagnosis was to start with the carbs and look at balancing and tuning but could it be anything else, it has been like this since I have had it!?
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All sorted, the most awkward nuts known to man, slid the outer column down and no more horn woes! Many Thanks for the advice!😁
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Just bought one of these and have to say am impressed by the quality, delivered the next day for £145, now just got to fit it!
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Thanks, fingers crossed I can sort it out on Saturday, is it as easy as loosening the clamps off and easing the column back?
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David, as per my first message and the photo below I was thinking the boss was the incorrect one for the wheel as it had been rubbing against it, I have cut the top of a pot to act as an insulator and that stops the boss grounding but obviously something else is shorting behind it? As you suggested above I will have a go at adjusting the column. The Hummous pot lid is literally has .5mm clearance.
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Perhaps adjusting the steering column outer shaft back may help?
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Thanks will have to spend this weekend taking it all apart and seeing what I can find, have replaced the push button, pencil and put back the joint earth braid which was missing only to now have another problem, deep joy.
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Standard are fine, unless the uprated ones are easier to fit... but your horn issue is definitely a short (the bushes won't affect that) between the steering wheel boss and the column. Isn't the horn meant to sound when you lean on it? Or do you mean the entire wheel? Take the horn push out and see if it's shorting against the wheel; it should be insulated until depressed.
😂 Yes, when I lean on the entire steering wheel, I have put a temporary plastic insulating disc between the boss and the steering wheel as this was shorting but if I lean on the steering wheel it honks. It is obviously shorting somewhere and on a USA forum someone was suggesting worn bushes could allow lateral movement and a short? I am pleased the horn is now working but as I get in and out of the car I am drawing attention to myself!;-)
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On 31/08/2019 at 18:50, Mad4classics said:
Hi,
Measures 44mm from back and 53mm from mounting face where steering wheel abuts to.
You shouldn't need to machine anything, the column is adjustable within limits; either you need to adjust the sliding joint of the inner column to bring the steering wheel closer to you or move the outer column down. Your choice depending where you want the steering wheel to sit.
David
I have an issue with the horn activating when I lean on it, is this likely to be that the plastic steering column bearings have worn? Does anyone know Is it worth buying standard or uprated ones? Standard are about £6 and uprated around £26 each?
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Thanks, will have a look didn’t realise the column was adjustable, the back of the steering wheel boss has been rubbing against the back of the steering column and has left a ring in the boss. Having looked at the schematic It looks as if worn bushes could be causing my other issue!?
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Mmmm also when I lean on the steering wheel or turn it whilst the car isn't moving the horn sounds, anyone know what is likely to be grounding out, is this liklely to be specific to the steering wheel or boss or a problem with the steering column?
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Hi
Does anyone know what the depth of a moto lita steering wheel boss for a Mk3 spitfire should be, the measurement from where the back of the steering wheel fits to the back of the boss which fits on the splines. My steering wheel boss is rubbing on the back of my steering column and shorting out, this is probably why it had been disconnected by the previous owner?. I have solved this by putting a plastic ring inbetween the back and the steering column but would like to have a bit of the back of the boss boss machined off to give some play. Only trouble is I have to take it somewhere to be machined so an exact measurement would be good if someone has one. I cannot measure it as there is not a definate shoulder which the boss sits on on the column. Hope this makes sense?
I think it should be a moto lita B20 boss, so need the front to back depth measurement if anyone has it please?
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Hi,
Thanks for the replies, found a blade fuse holder so will put that inline as a temporary fix with a 35amp fuse, want to rewire the old girl in the near furture so will look to split up the circuits then, been looking at the recent thread on here with the new fuse box, looks like a good idea.
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I have blown a fuse which feeds my horns and also a Kenlowe Fan (not blown by using either piece of equipment, I just shorted it out whilst investigating a horn issue!), the current fuse is rated at 50amps which in my mind is too big, do I need a smaller fuse and or should it be a slow blow fuse to cater for inrush current? Any advice or enlightenment would be appreciated!:-)
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Thanks for the replies enough there to keep me busy for a few days!:-)
Just got back from a few days away but found a bottle of deox gel in the garage so had a quick blast with that, think I am going to strip the paint off the top side completely to see what I have and then go from there, I am not in a rush and I am keen to have a go at the electrolysis route so may build a small custom tank first to see what effect that has.
The dark bits which are left are concerning me, may have a quick run over with some of those poly discs to see what effect they have.
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Try and see what the website allows you to do but would be logical to Insure, VHI and tax then sorn?
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Hi
Has anyone ever used SPL to deal with rusty panels? Or has anyone ever tried DIY electrolysis to deal with rust? I have just purchased an original bootlid and am looking at ways to deal with paint removal and eradication of rust particularly in the seams.
SPL have quoted me £200 to dip and then electrophoretic coat the panel which doesn't seem that bad if it stops the thing rusting again? Or should I just use elbow grease and over the counter products to treat the rust?
Views on a postcard please...............
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Bought it!:-) £155, great because my old bootlid has been doing my head in! Mind you may be of use to someone, may have to put it on ebay!:-)
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Yes was on it, trying to haggle at the moment!;-)
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On 01/08/2019 at 10:51, jmh said:
One for sale in Denmark - original item, rust free (seller well known in the danish triumph community).
http://www.veteranposten.dk/visAnn.asp?Id=279187
(Sit down before you reed the price - one pound about 8 dkr.)
I don't think I want to spend £418, no doubt plus postage!:-0
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Dave Fairbairn, what are you after for your fibreglass one? may do me until my quest for the holy grail is complete!
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On 26/07/2019 at 21:33, thescrapman said:
Are you looking for an original one as the shape of the current replacements is wrong?
I have a replacement one which doesn't sit right, that coupled with the fact that whoever fitted it put the letters on wonky doesn't make me love it!! :-)
Spitfire Kangeroo Problem
in Fuel System
Posted
A quick update on this one, took my car into my local garage to have the carbs balanced and timing set etc etc. He found a few issues and it now runs fairly well but is still a pig to drive, so now going to look for a later pedal assembly! 😞