blubayou

After 70 miles the car is sitting well, better than it ever has. Totally standard factory fitted spring with Delrin Buttons from a bloke on ebay (BTUK) Approx 1/2 deg negative camber on unladen 1/2 full tank, long driveshafts.

Well got the spring fitted last night. Lowered to the ground, pushed car back & forth... It was awful. Sitting high but with around 2deg Positive camber, like a maladjusted Herald. This morning I was ready to take it off again, but decided to run it around the block to see if it would settle. Success! Looks good, sits an inch higher (approx 24" arch to floor, was just short of 23") and just over 1deg Negative camber

Just fitted these Delrin buttons today. The new Delrin buttons did not fit at all, I had to file a chamfer on the top of each to get them flush to the metalwork. Hell of a job as getting the bundle back into the spring box is very very difficult. Had to release the fixed spring to get it all clamped up. Also had to glue the buttons in place to aid assembly. The longest leaf appeared to have no dimples to fit the buttons, but it does they were bunged up with the remains of the original rubber buttons.

Thanks all, some good ideas. In the short term I've ordered some of those Delrin buttons off ebay. I shall fit them and report back. I can definitely advise NOT to use the Bastuck items, my tap washers were far cheaper, fitted well and at least equally as good Really I could do with a replacement spring with a more pronounced arch but have yet to hear a good report on any modern replacement spring. I was considering heating the two lower leaves near the ends and bending them a little lower. Anyone done this?

Well, last time I fitted tap washers as I had them to hand. This time I have fitted new 'Bastuck' rubber buttons. They don't fit the depressions so had to trim them. Result is no improvement at all. I would like to lift the rear end 2" to be honest, anyone done this?

And before you take the old ones out check they have been fitted the right way round...

I think I too shall refit my British Leyland badges, after all they are original (mounting dimensions anyone???). Has anyone fitted the rear wing badges without drilling? I siliconed my rear chrome in place 20 years ago & its still fixed on.....

Hi all, 20 years ago when I restored my MK4 Spitfire, I fitted the neat bonnet badge but left off the rear side badges, mainly because they required holes drilled in my new wings. I also left off the British Leyland badges on the bonnet sides as they were a reminder of Marinas, 1100s & all things poor quality. All these years on, these old cars gain more respect with every new battery operated car produced. What are peoples feelings? Few seem to fit them.

Thanks Pete, Having dug a little deeper, Canley's list the Moss spring 159640 for earlier short driveshaft mk1Vs, long driveshaft models like mine as 159654, so I'll give it a miss. I may pull the rear spring out over winter and do something with it.

As above really, my spring is original and definitely sits too low causing clearance issues fully laden. I've always wanted it to sit a little higher so it sits level rather than pointing uphill. Reputable seller, £108 delivered. Apparently 45 have been sold, has anyone on here fitted one?

Many years ago I had the Phoenix 4-2-1 manifold on a Mk1V Spitfire. It was a bugger to fit and the joints leaked. I took it off & sold it. I now have a club Bell manifold. It was easy to fit, is made in one piece so doesn't leak and also liberates more power top end. Both with a home brew exhaust using just a single Phoenix rear straight through silencer, not too noisy, sounds great when you want it to.

I fitted a genuine Mk3 cam to my Spitfire which needed the bearings as it has a 13/60 GE block. I used the old GE cam as a drift to fit the bearings. Worked perfectly, just check the oil holes line up well. Would the 6 cylinder be any different? Could be worth a try. If the cam failed to drop into place after fitting the bearings it would point to issues....

Well, the drip tray works... Master cylinder 400 miles & 21 months old. It would appear to be leaking from the joint of reservoir to cylinder.

Just to clarify, the 4 cylinder equivalent is the Mann W713 / 14. Been using these for a few years after a trusted recommendation on here. As above, bulk bought from ECP a few years back.

Thanks for the advice Guys, I'm hoping to lift it up a little. What's the thoughts on clearance, I was thinking 1/4"?