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  • Location
    Aberteifi, West Wales
  • Cars Owned
    1964 Spitfire 4 Signal Red, nearing completion of body off restoration.

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  1. Hello all, I need to replace the brushes in my starter motor ( Mk 1 Spitfire ) but not having any luck de-soldering, unsoldering ? the old ones. Using a soldering iron the heat is shunted away to the backplate. I'm afraid to use a gas torch in case I might melt the spacers between the brush holder and backplate. Anyone got any advice please ?
  2. Everyone's cheaper than Newton but it's their kit that everyone else sells ! Rimmers, Paddocks, et al.
  3. aggie


    I want to install a new Radio/CD player into My Spitfire which, being 1964, is Positive earth. All the modern Radios are, of course, Negative earth. Is there a way to do this ?
  4. Can anyone tell me how to fit the screw that holds the chrome headlamp trim in place on an early Spitfire please ? There's certainly not enough room for a screwdriver. Thanks, Alun.
  5. Many thanks to you all. I think I now have a grasp of what it all means and the confidence to finish the job. All I now need is two people with nothing to do for an hour or two or 300 lbs of sand from the local builder's merchant. It will probably be the sand ! Alun.
  6. Pete, I stripped the whole of the suspension so have new shocks, spring, diff, UJs and new bushes throughout
  7. Okay, so having removed the diff ( thanks for all the tips on hammer size ! ) and spring it's time to refit the same. Refitting is quite straightforward but, this is the bit that's confusing me. Taken from the official Workshop Manual :- " PLACE A TROLLEY JACK UNDER THE DIFFERENTIAL CASING, REMOVE THE CHASSIS STANDS AND, WITH THE VERTICAL LINKS SUPPORTED AT THEIR RUNNING HEIGHT, LOAD THE CAR AND LOWER IT'S REAR END UNTIL THE AXLE SHAFTS ASSUME THEIR STATIC LADEN OPERATING POSITION. THIS IS TO ALLOW THE RUBBER BUSHES TO ASSUME THEIR CORRECT WORKING POSITION BEFORE TIGHTENING THE NUTS " ??? I'm sure I read somewhere that loading the car means placing a 68 Kg weight on each seat ? As to the rest, can anyone shed some light please. I suppose it would be clear to a trained Triumph mechanic but........... Alun
  8. aggie


    Anybody know of a TR4 for sale from project to reasonable condition ?
  9. Hey, WD40, a long drift and a club hammer ( as suggested )...........job done ! It will be two short bolts when it goes back and I've already done the drain plug. Thanks to you all for your input, much appreciated. Alun
  10. I've decided to remove the diff from my Mk 1 Spitfire for a long overdue recon. It's been a struggle but I have removed everything except, of course the very long bolt which passes through the two rear mountings. The nut came off okay and the bolt turns but, come out it will not. I guess it's rusted to the steel inners of the old mountings ? Any tips please. Thanks.
  11. Thankyou all. Think i'll go with your method Colin. Any particular glue that you use ? I've used several different spray adhesives when fitting carpet and odd bits of trim but don't really rate any of them too highly.
  12. Hello, I am just about to recover ( retrim ) the rear wheel arches of my Spitfire 4. Have cleaned everything and cut the new material roughly to shape but, because the arch is arched and the material is flat it's a bit like wrestling with an eel. Anybody out there done this before and got any helpful tips such as where to start i.e. top, bottom or middle ?
  13. Hello Pete, Sorry I haven't replied earlier but the answer is no. I have removed and relocated the windscreen but the problem remains. I guess it's worth trying what Pete and Colin suggest, I will certainly be looking at this as a solution. Thanks, both, for that and thanks Colin for the advice regarding my steering wheel replacement; worked a treat.
  14. Thanks Clive I will check those points.
  15. No, Pete it's the original wiring which hasn't been changed. Good thought though.
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