SteveT57

Hi Guys, Thanks for the above info. The image that Gary provided is the one in the Haynes and Triumph official manuals, and also on the James Paddock and Rimmer's websites for the Mk2 Vitesse. The twisted metal bracket closest to the manifold does look tricky to fit, as I don't have a set of ramps, and I'm not sure of the accessibility of that area if I tried to access it from the top after removing the gearbox cover. I've replaced the 2 rubber-strip brackets either side of the silencer and the exhaust pipe feels pretty rigid in that area, so I will probably leave it until I can get proper access to it. Thanks again. SteveT

Thanks, but that looks like a another exhaust to me. The Mk2 has two rubber attachment straps, one just before and one just after the silencer. The front bracket is rigidly mounted using a twisted metal part.

Can someone tell me where the front exhaust bracket(151343) for a Mk2 Vitesse is attached to? Is it one of the bolts on the bell housing? Does anyone have a photo of this area? It’s not clear from the Haynes manual or the spare parts book. When I purchase this car, this bracket was missing and they weren’t available, but James Paddock now has them in stock, so I'd like to fit it. Thanks,

Hot/warm starting issue: I made another test run today, only about 8 miles this time. When I got back, I turned off the ignition and I was able to restart it immediately, twice. I left it 10 minutes and it refused to start. The carb float bowls and fuel pipe from the pump were only just warm, so its unlikely that it’s fuel evaporation from either of those areas. However the inlet manifold was very hot, so I got some damp rags and put them on the manifold to cool it down, but it still refused to start for almost 2 hours. Spark plugs looked OK, perhaps a bit on the rich side, so have screwed in the main jets by ½ a turn to lean the mixture. I will try another run this week Frustrated of Rutland. Steve T.

I set the mixture using the carb’s lifting pins and took the Vitesse out for a 20 mile run. It almost ran almost perfectly and only hesitated/surged once when accelerating in 2nd gear. When I got back I turned off the engine, opened the garage door and 5 minutes later it refused to start. Engine turned over fine with the new Bosch battery fitted last year. Any ideas? Is it worth fitting carburettor shields to reduce evaporation of fuel? Thanks, Steve T.

Hi Doug, Interesting that you should mention the thick and useless diaphragms. About 2 years ago I purchase a pair from a very well know Triumph spares supplier and found that they didn't allow the slide to drop down, even with the jet block removed. I measured the new ones and they were 25 thou thick and the originals were only 15 thou thick. The supplier did replace them FOC however. Hi Steve P & Martin, The fuel lines and rubber interconnections have been replaced and there were no signs of any deposits in the float bowels. The hesitation and surging only occurs occasionally now and the car is generally going much better, but I will have another go at the set-up at the weekend. Thanks, Steve T.

Update: I stripped down the carbs down on the Vitesse at the weekend and re-centralised the main jets, etc. It seem to be going better now (not perfect yet) but the acceleration is now quite good. I took it out this lunchtime for a 20 mile run, so I now need to check the colour of the plugs to see where the mixture is, after I reset everything back to the default settings. It starts easily hot or cold now, so it can't be far away.

Hi Guys, Over the weekend I checked the distributor shaft and there’s virtually no side play and the advance retard mechanism was free to move, but I put a few drops of oil on it anyway. I also dismantled both carbs to check the float needle valves, both were clean, move freely and importantly they sealed well when closed. Jets were clear and I have centralised the main jets and set the jet adjustment back to the default setting(3 turns ACW). Will start it up later this week and try to fine tune the mixture using the lifting pins, etc. Cheers, Steve T

Hi Guys, Its probably something I've done. Just after I acquired the car, I found it had a bad oil leak coming from the rear of the cylinder head; while I had the head and carbs off, I replaced the carb O-Rings(that had gone hard and were breaking up) and the diaphragms. Just after that, I found that the fuel pump was sucking in air under the bolt that holds the metal cap on, as I couldn't successfully seal this, I fitted a new pump, along with a new fuel line to the carbs. I also replaced the points with the magnetic sensor setup about the same time, and reset the timing with a strobe light. I also fitted a thermostat as the previous owner hadn't fitted one('It always ran cold', he said). The temperature is now fine and the needle is just below the half-way mark when fully warmed up, but it hesitates/surges when cold also. It's not so serious that I can't drive it, but I am concerned that it's not doing the engine/transmission any good. I will check the distributor and the other suggestions this weekend. Thanks again for your assistance. Steve T

Hi Pete, Distributor is a Lucas one. Could the problem also be due to an air leak, carb to manifold etc.? Thanks. Steve T.

Hi Pete, Thanks for your prompt reply. The distributor rotor arm is the new(red type). Plugs are NGK BP6ES. Air filters are standard. Will check the other points you mentioned also. Thanks again. SteveT

Hi All I’ve recently joined the TSSC and I’m hoping that someone can assist me. I have a 1969 Vitesse Mk 2 that, as far as I can tell, is pretty standard. However the engine hesitates/surges between 2000 and 3000 RPM, which is most noticeable when accelerating (even gently) in 2nd gear. Also, occasionally when travelling at a contact speed on a flat road, say at 55 MPH, the engine seems to start to loose power for a few seconds and then makes a ‘phutt’ sound, then resumes normal power. I have tried different dashpot oils(3-in-1, SAE 10 and 20-50) but none seems to make any difference. The timing has been checked with a strobe light and it is OK. The ignition advances with increasing revs. New sparkplugs have been fitted. A new fuel pump has been fitted. The points have been replaced with the magnetic sensor set-up, so no condenser needed. I have tried to set the fuel-air mixture using two of the Gunson Colourtune spark plugs in positions 2 and 5, but with little success. The carbs have new diaphragms and O-rings fitted to the main jets. I have followed the manual for the resetting of the main jets using the lifting pins on the carbs., etc. It starts well from cold, but starting can be problematic when the engine is warm. The temperature gauge reads just below the half way mark when fully warmed up. Note: The hesitation is still there when the engine is cold, so it doesn’t seem to be related to the engine temperature. I have searched this forum for ‘misfire’ etc. Thanks in advance. SteveT