chris.eg
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Posts posted by chris.eg
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7 minutes ago, NonMember said:
1) the heater matrix and/or valve are (partially) blocked by silt and corrosion
2) the restriction in the bypass has rusted away or been drilled out by an ignorant PO
3) the ignorant PO has swapped the hoses so that the restricted pipe is now the heater
Ok. So is the restriction in the steel pipe under the manifold? On mine there is a steel T-shaped connection for the hoses near the back of the manifold. As far as I can remember the top connection is to the heater return, the side connection to the inlet manifold heating pipe and the bottom is connected by a rubber hose to the steel return under the manifold. Is that much correct?
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I took the spitfire to see a mechanic friend today. We got it up on his lift to have a really good look underneath, which looks pretty good (better than I was expecting actually). There is surface rust over most of the chassis under flaking underseal, but nothing rotten. He checked the timing with his strobe and it was rather more advanced than it ought to be so set it to 10 degrees BTDC.
He also said the reason the heater wasn't working was that the water was passing through the return under the manifolds much more easily than the heater matrix which seems logical. So, he clamped that hose shut and that made the heater work. Now I have a clearer picture in my mind of how the water circulates I don't really see how the heater was supposed to work when new. Why would the water ever flow through the heater matrix instead of the bypass return?
Anyway, for now, as long as the heater valve is open I assume I can leave that hose closed?
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In going to do the water pump today. Should there be a grease nipple in this here? On the old pump the hole is empty and was fitted facing downwards.
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Ok. I'll check that pipe very carefully then. Presumably if water flows freely through the heater matrix there isn't much else that can be wrong?
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Did you check the small bypass metal tube is actually clear ??
Pretty sure I checked all pipes but I'll check again before filling with antifreeze. Would that explain the heater never working if it was blocked?
33 minutes ago, daverclasper said:Is your heater return hose at least warm when the valve is open (apparently even when there is some flow through the matrix, it can still be partially blocked and not generating enough heat though).
The hoses all feel quite a similar temperature. When the system was drained I attached a hose to the heater valve (open) and water came out of the other heater hose (along with a load of nastiness...)
since water is presumably circulating through the heater, I don't really understand why it's not working :/
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I've ordered a big syringe to oil the trunnions this weekend. GL4 oil is correct for this?
However, getting the water pump done so I can put antifreeze in is my first priority. I'm going to give that a go on Friday, but before I do, does anyone have any final suggestions to unblock the block drain hole or get the heater working? I've probed about in the drain hole with wire etc. Whatever I poke in goes about 1 1/2 inches and stops. Can't seem to find any passage sideways/upwards. I guess that'll have to wait till I need to take the head off for some reason (hopefully not too soon...) but the heater is rather frustrating. I think the car is running at the correct temperature as I can touch the top of the radiator for a couple of seconds. I wouldn't call any of the pipes hot, but all are fairly similar including the heater pipes. I'm rather at a loss...
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3 hours ago, johny said:
Ive found a large syringe with plastic pipe is best for the trunnions
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Had another assault on the coolant drain plug today but didn't really get anywhere. Seems well and truly blocked and I'm not about to take the head off just to sort that, so for now it'll have to stay blocked. There was a thermostat fitted but without a hole or jiggle pin so I swapped it for the one I ordered. By the time I'd given up on the drain plug it was getting dark so I refilled with water and the water pump will have to be a job for next weekend.
Do I understand correctly that any grease gun will do to oil the trunnions? I've ordered a couple of 90 degree grease nipples which look like they should make the job easier
Oh, and the heater is still not working 😥
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8 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
full factory reprint from club shop £27 put one on your christmas wish list you can read it in the little room for some peace
Seems a good plan...
I get the impression that the Haynes manual is a bit more 'beginner friendly' whereas the factory manual is better if you know what you're doing. Is that true?
In other news, the parts I ordered arrived today
The service kit I ordered included points and a condensor (as well as a second free oil filter...) Would it be wise to replace them or only change if there seems to be a problem? The engine seems to run really well except for a strange, quiet ticking/rattling noise which I don't know where it's from so I don't really want to do anything unnecessary/detrimental.
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On a slightly unrelated note, my Spitfire came with a really old Haynes manual covering up to '78. It's a sort of grey colour and anything to do with mk4 and 1500 is in an appendix at the end. Are the blue ones that cover all model years organised differently? If they're much better I may look for one second hand, but if it's the same except with a blue cover I obviously won't bother 😛
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Ok, I'll leave the engine mounts for now then and sort some of the other problems to be getting on with
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7 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
A common fault is the Bendix is not moving freely on the starter motor shaft. There's a lot of muck in the bell housing and the shaft gets filthy.
So is the starter probably never fully engaging? I assume that means damage to the teeth is being caused every time this happens, so best do something about it...
Also, could someone confirm that if the engine mounts fail, there's unlikely to be major damage caused? I just really don't want to do a load of expensive damage 😕 Speaking of which, I guess I'd better have a look at the trunions and clean out a grease gun to oil them.
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In that case, I'll drop both sensors and engine mounts from my list and just get the service kit, thermostat (and gasket), water pump and some oil - probably the Comma off Amazon as I have one or two other things to get there anyway so postage will be free.
Then, I'll investigate the voltage stabiliser and wiring behind the dash while I'm about it and get one off eBay if neccessary.
Recently my battery seems to have been ok when I start the car (perhaps just that it's warmer) but a few times - and once persistently - the starter engages, turns the engine fairly smartly a couple of times, then disengages and whirs uselessly. Is this fairly normal considering age, bad solenoid or perhaps worn teeth on the pinion/flywheel? Really hope not the latter...
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27 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
If you suspect the temperature gauge you should also check the fuel gauge, both run off a voltage stabiliser which is a common thing to fail.
Actually, that may be it. My fuel gauge has not shown full yet, despite filling to when the pump automatically stops. I wondered to start with whether that was because the shape of the tank made the pump stop too soon, but looking in the filler cap I don't think that's the case. What should the voltage from the stabiliser be? Do they sometimes not produce the correct voltage, or more of a works or doesn't sort of thing?
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7 minutes ago, Gully said:
The engine mounts don't generally break - the metal and rubber separate and you get clutch judder (or that's how mine manifested). The engine won't drop as the V shape they're held in keeps them in place. Easiest thing to do is lever the engine with a pry bar and see if the mount separates.
Gully
In that case I'll probably leave them as they are for now and replace them if the car starts driving badly. At the moment it seems to drive really well so I guess they're OK. I might check with a pry bar anyway though.
I'm also thinking about replacing the oil pressure and water temp sensors to be sure that they're reading correctly.
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Hopefully the picture is good enough to see? They look on the verge of breaking to me 😕
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7 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
Are your engine mounts causing a problem?
It's not that they're causing a problem so much as I don't want them to fail and cause a load more expense. Drivers side in particular looks really bad to me, but I'll post a picture to see what you think later. I will only replace them if I need to, although I expect when you see the picture you'll say don't drive it till they're done...
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21 minutes ago, poppyman said:
https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-classic-car-oil-20w50-5l/p/0342792
This stuff has good reports, and has all additives that our engines need. Someone told me it is the same as Halfords. I use it in one of my cars with no problem and keeps good oil pressure at tickover.
Do you think that's better than the Comma oil, or just another option?
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The thickest GTX I've seen was 15w40 but I think that's still too thin? Anyway, I'm thinking of ordering some comma classic oil from amazon which I hope will be ok. Then I'll change it at about 3000 miles and decide whether to use something better at that point.
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10 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
surprisingly cheap Castrol GTX
Do you mean GTX would be suitable? I thought that was only suitable for more modern engines?
Am I interpreting the stat conversation correctly that it might not matter that much if there's a jiggle pin? If it does matter, what's the best way to be sure before ordering?
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Just now, dougbgt6 said:
And flushing will get all the soda out of the main water jacket.
So if I flush from the lower radiator hose up to the thermostat housing it should get all the nastiness out?
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I'll replace the water pump then. When you say 'not driven hard' what do you mean by that? Mine will be used for a variety of journeys, including some on motorways. Probably not 'exercised' in the same way I imagine some were in the past though...
Re the thermostat, the one on Rimmer Bros - https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GTS104 doesn't seem to have a hole in, unless it's very small?
18 minutes ago, Anglefire said:Not really as has been said. Many are blocked from new.
I understand that, but unless I can drain the block I'm going to end up with soda left in there, surely? That can't be good...
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Ok. I'm looking at ordering some parts off Rimmer Bros.
1. A service kit (air filters, oil filter, fan belt, plugs, points and condenser)
2. Thermostat GTS104
3. Thermostat gasket
4. 2x engine mounts
5. 5 litres of Castrol 20w50 - is there a cheaper oil I can use that'll be good enough?
The other thing I'm considering adding to this list, but only if it's needed, is a water pump as there is some play in mine (but not leaking) so I guess it's on the way out?
Is there anything I should add to/remove from this list?
Presumably it's fairly important that I get that hole unblocked now that there's soda in there. I really don't much want to take the head off though 😕
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So when I come to draining the water and washing soda out (speaking of which, will it be ok in there for a week, not doing much mileage?) I should just give the drain hole another good poke. Is the hole supposed to be fairly deep, or do I need a bent bit of wire to like around sideways?
If I take the thermostat housing off to look, will I be able to reuse the gasket, or do I need one to hand to replace? I'm planning on ordering a service kit and engine mount from Rimmers anyway, so guess I may as well get a gasket too.
Looking for a spitfire
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
Thanks for the ideas. I'm away from the car for a couple of weeks, but then I'll take some pictures to post so someone can hopefully tell me if it's connected up properly