mpbarrett

I wonder if that is optimistic, my feeling is that things will not be back to normal by then I see that the CAMRA real ale festival in August has been cancelled for this year... Mike

re late GT6 My old MK3 GT6 which had the swing rear axle and the auto adjusting brakes and was if I remember, an early chassis number for the change from rotaflex to swing axle, did NOT have a servo fitted. No signs of fitting holes or pipework. So I don't think all late MK3 had servos fitted..... After I sorted the brakes out (mainly getting the auto adjusting rears working) I did fit a servo as Libby my daughter and me were using it for a RBRR and 10CR and she found the brakes a bit heavy. mike

might be worth asking Tony Lindsey Dean in Suffolk if he has a spare one. He has been very active on FB recently sorting out his stock..... Mike

I have a couple of Arduinos (and a PIC based controller) in my Herald. Easy to read the battery voltage by feeding the battery voltage thru a potential divider to drop the voltage down to the input range of the Arduino A/D I would also add a bit of smoothing (capacitor) or software averaging to take out any noise. Also a Zener diode to protect it from spikes, the 12V supply in a car can be quite noisy and will go above 12V when the battery is being charged. Take care with the power supply to drop the supply voltage down to 5V, make sure there is plenty of decoupling. Also use the watchdog timer so that if (when..) the Arduino software crashes it will restart properly. Finally the OLED display are nice and bright but you need to monitor the car lights line so that you can dim the display at night time when the lights are on... Nice project, I did try to build one into a standard gauge housing but you end up with a very small display, but 4D now make circular displays now. https://4dsystems.com.au/products/ulcd-220rd bit bigger than 52mm. Mike

I think you drive it to use the torque rather than revving the guts out of it, it does need the OD gearbox and different diff ratio. I went for the mid Newman cam as I wanted the broad flat torque, makes it a pleasure to drive and seems to suit the Herald. But really does not sound as nice as a 6.... Mike

My 13/60 has gone down this route over the 15 years I have owned her. 1) 1300 twin carbs and better exhaust, slightly better than standard but fiddly to get the tuning right. 2) 1500 engine, twin carbs, exhaust O/D gearbox. Really noticeable difference, lots of torque. 3) rebuilt 1500 engine, uprated head (not sure what was done to it as it came from a friend), Newman cam, rebuilt OD 3 rail gearbox with GT6 ratio gear set, diff changed to 3.89 full EFI using Jenvery throttle bodies, wasted spark ignition, Megasquirt MX2 with upgraded processor. Polybush all round, new disks, Mintex pads, new front springs, rear spring new shocks, adjustable in the front. Goes very very well,lots of torque and will return over 40MPG when cruising, And stops and goes round corners. It also has MX5 seats and 2 speed plus interrupt wipers, and larger Vitesse fuel tank. Uprated headlights and relays. Very empty wallet, spent much more than the car is worth but very enjoyable to drive mike

and another vote for Mintex 1144 made an enormous difference to the brakes on my Herald. Worth every penny. But you need to get everything else right, good (or new) disks, new fluid, well bleed system with no air, working rear, and hand, brakes etc. Mike

shouldn't be any worse than working on HV systems. But then the guys doing that are electricians and are taught the risks and how to mitigate them. For EV cars the guys tend to be mechanics who are converting to becoming electricians so I can see the increased risk. HV DC is very nasty... The local VW main dealer (very large dealership) has one technician who is able to look at Hybrid, EV cars. When our 'gold plated, filled with unicorn hair' charging cable (£1000) failed it was going to be over 2 weeks before he had time to look at it (and £60 to plug it in and show that it did not work)…. New one purchased from Ebay for £150 and the old one stripped to understand how it worked {basically a couple of relays to completely isolate the car, L, N and earth, a built in RCD cct and a bit of signal electronics to tell the car what charging current to draw}. mike

We have a golf GTE plug in Hybrid. In the summer we get about 30 mile range out of the battery, this time of the year it drops down to 23 miles (fully charged) as the battery is less efficient in cold weather. If we switch off the heating we gain an extra 3 or 4 mile range!. In the summer turning off the A/C makes no difference to the range. The range indicator is only an approximate measure of the battery state, even when it show 0 miles the car will still switch to electric power. Shame there is not a better measure of the battery state. So a lot of energy from the battery is used to heat the car, the upside is that you can sit in the car in a traffic jam with a nice warm car and no engine running (vital around the chocked roads of Cambridge). I don't know how the heating or A/C systems work (or the dual clutch gearbox or how it decides when to use the electric or petrol engine, or even if it has a normal battery) its frustrating not to know in detail how it works! Don't think Haynes have written a manual for it yet.... I think that's why I like working on the Herald, everything is understandable..... mike

quick update on this (honestly I am not trying to sell them...) seems they have updated the pictures ad details. It is a welder not a plasma cutter but is gas free and uses flux cored wire.. https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/diy/parkside-flux-cored-wire-welder/p28853 mike

interesting discussion. I have a 1500 Herald with a OD gearbox with GT6 close ratio internals so first is quite high, I have also fitted a 3.89 diff. All seems to work quite nicely. My 1500 engine has a Newman's basis cam which I choose for a the wide torque band. It also has EFI and electronic ignition so has a very smooth flat torque response which is what I wanted (its a 1500 so does not really like to rev above 5000rpm). I am really pleased with it, quick enough around town and good on the motorway up to 80/85 without any stress. It does come alive from 3750, I rarely take it above 5000 overall it does everything I wanted. And cruising around 70mph and it will return over 40mpg on a run, BTW I think its great that we are able to play with gearboxes, diff ratios etc, Mike

I have the clip on mirrors on the my Herald. They are fitted to the glass on the quarter lights which means you cant open them! I would like to find a better way of fitting them, on the Red GT6 are they fitted to the gutter?

Body looks fairly rust free, apart from the filler on the bonnet, and is that a Webber on the engine (and alternator)? Good base for a project mike

Thanks guys. If something is too cheap there is usually a reason! I would prefer to put the money towards a 'proper' welder.... But someone should buy one to try it and then report back.. Mike

Sounds like a good idea. I took the rear lights (herald) apart, cleaned the plastic and the reflectors and then replaced the bulbs with LED versions. The difference is amazing suddenly the brake lights, indicators and side lights can be clearly seen. Worth the effort if you are using your Triumph in the dark winter nights.... BTW Even if you keep the original bulbs the difference by cleaning everything up is worth the effort. Mike 13/60 (1500) 1968 Herald.

Interesting very cheap Welder in Lidl's from the 19 Jan see https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/diy/parkside-flux-cored-wire-welder/p28853 any comments seems a cheap way to get a welder for very occasional use..... Mike

If you want to contact Nigel Hook who makes the speaker panels here his contact details " my email address is nigevitesse@googlemail.com It usually takes a couple of days to make them.. Black and Matador Red at the moment.. But im struggling to get the correct colour pigment for the beige (but ive only ever been asked for beige once) Cheers"

I brought 2 from him very good quality. I will facebook message him later to day to see if I can get some details to post on here. mike

I know that jigsaw are shutting up (for very understandable, but sad, reasons) but are there any other companies in the Northampton area that did restoration work on Triumphs that have closed (gone into receivership) in the last 6 months. If any one has any answers would prefer info via a private message. I am trying to help someone who was having a TR6 restored. Thanks mike

nice idea.... but cant have too many taps and dies.... Mike

Clive thanks time to buy a couple of UNF dies and power up the lathe Mike

what the thread on the adapters? Flowfit do a range of adapters https://www.flowfitonline.com/hydraulic-qrcs-and-adaptors/male-x-male?variants=Thread Size|3/4doublequote x 5/8doublequote &price=1,278&price_range=1,278 On the left hand side of the page is a thread size and Thread type selector. Just need to know what the correct threads are Mike

so are they basically two separate carbs put together with a two separate but linked butterfly's and common float chamber? Never seen them before they do look very cool mike

Re: Twin Carbs interesting articles in Triumph World on the Sabrina twin cam TRS engine. Very interesting SU carbs on it, not seen SU like that. Are they 2 SU's joined together maybe with one float chamber I suppose it means you have one carb per cylinder? mike

Anyone have any discount code for visiting the NEC Classic car show on the Friday? The TSSC (and the CT) code is only valid for Sat and Sunday and I cant go on either of those days. The show is quite pricey at £34.00 +£12.00 to park...... Mike