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mpbarrett

TSSC Member
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Everything posted by mpbarrett

  1. joint CT and TSSC meet is every first Monday of the month at the Plough Fen Ditton (https://www.theploughfenditton.co.uk/). From Ely A10 down to A14 turn East and take the next exit to Fen Ditton! Next meeting will be the 4 Nov. Friendly group of Triumph and classic owners who always like to see a new local car. Mike
  2. Jack good luck with the project always nice to do a new car that you have personal connections too! I am sure you will get lots of help here! cheers mike
  3. gosh that will be a challenge. So much rust around the roof it is almost a convertible! I think I would get underneath and have a very good look at the chassis to get some idea of how bad it is. Pull up the carpets and have a good look at the floors, you want to get a good idea of what involved in restoring it. Take lots of photos and post them on here. There are people who have restored GT'6's who will be able to tell you whats the best way forward. Don't want to sound negative (and put you off) but unfortunately the problem with rust in a Triumph is that is nearly always much worse than it looks from the outside..... Anyway good luck! Mike
  4. if the clutch is not releasing you could try pumping the pedal it as this sometimes helps to get a bit more movement in the hydraulics and disengage the plate, and then try changing gear. If that helps it points to a clutch hydraulic problem. mike
  5. Thank Colin and Pete Hadnt thought to try the club shop! I have ordered one and will see how it goes. regards mike
  6. I am trying to fit a child seat into my Herald 13/60. It has inertia belts that I think I brought from the TSSC (it was along time ago) and has MX5 seats fitted. When I tried to fit the child seat the belts were not long enough to fit around the child seat. I brought some generic seat belt extenders from Ebay but they have a different fitting from the ones in my car.... Anyone else done this and does anyone know if you can get seat belt extenders for the TSSC seat belts? BTW I am assuming these seat belt extenders are safe, I cant see any problems as they have a normal socket and tongue... The granddaughter is very keen to have a go in the Herald! Thanks mike
  7. at least its a realistic description and not "it will polish out..." Mike
  8. I thought it was some sort of intensive carburettor rebuilding course..... mike
  9. Andy if you want to change it back to the original spring happy to help.... I still have the original spring on my Herald and its ok, just need to remember to brake before the corner and not once you are in it..... Mike
  10. I don't think you will get the Smart wiper switch to work with the single wiper motor. The problem is that the single speed switch connects the wiper motor to gnd to make it run the two speed is supplying 12v to make it run. I think the smart switch uses the 12v as a signal to then control the smart switch and then drives the motor directly. So without a lot of rewiring of the single speed wiper you wont be able to get it to work. mike
  11. Darren Oh that's a shame... But looking at some of the links its looks like this device is trying to almost too clever... and I expect there are using FETs or other solid state switching rather than using a relay. If you cant get hold of the seller what are you going to do? if you want I could have a play with it on the bench but it would be better to get the supplier to sort it out, particularly as there seems to be a few people trying to use it with a single speed wiper. Seems like a wasted marketing opportunity! regards mike
  12. Darren I did reply to your FB post. If you have a look at the Lucas 2 speed wiring and working ( see http://www.gomog.com/BLAIR/tech/electrical/wipers/2speed/2SpeedWiperMotor.html) I think you can reverse engineer it... The standard herald single speed motor switch just connects to GND to make the motor run, when you switch it off the motor continues to run until the park switch goes O/C. In the 2 speed things are more complicated basically when you switch off the connect the slow speed thru to the park switch that has 12v on it until the motor gets to the park position, at this point the park switch shorts the motor to GND, I think they do to stop the motor as quickly as possible. I am not sure whats in the Smart Screen but it looks like it 'might' work if you connect the W and P terminals across your Herald switch slight assumption they are using a relay here wiper to W, poles to P and SW... Can you bench test it power it up and check the continuity between W and P terminals? Mike PS just fitted 2 speed wipers to my Herald (from a GT6), used an Ardunio to power the motor and monitor the park switch, then programmed it to give a couple of intermittent speeds as well as normal and fast. Used a 2 pole 5 way rotary switch built in into original GT6 switch to control it. If anyone is interested I could post some more details....
  13. oh dear new vertical link arrived today, thread so tight I cannot get the trunnion to screw on. And there is damage from when the thread was cut near the top shoulder (looks like it picked up when it was being cut/rolled). Send back and another on its way... Mike
  14. Pete I have never really understood how the front wheel bearings are meant to work. There is nothing to stop the inner bearing rotating on the stub axle but that seems a bit strange when you have a bearing.. I suppose the outer taper bearing is clamped to the shaft and so the inner part will not rotate. Do you know why the inner bearing is designed to rotate on the stub axle but then does it matter? If I cant get a new link but there is no corrosion on the thread and most seem to break on the thread rather than the part above. If I cant get a new one then I will try to polish out the pitting. cheers mike
  15. Decided to strip and overhaul the front suspension as I haven't done it for a long time (and the shocks dont work very well) so here is my LH upright. Really want to change it if I can find available. Have cleaned up the surface but a lot of corrosion pitting on the surface although it not at the thread level and the thread looks ok. Also looks like the bearing has picked up on the shaft (although the bearing feels fine) and top of shock absorber almost worn thru the shaft. And I managed to break by joint splitter... So all going very well.... I have already brought new shocks, springs. The Trunnions look and feel good with no slack and have been regularly oiled. Top ball joint on both sides is so tight I cant move them once they are off the car, plan to replace them with grease nipples ones. List of new parts needed is growing but then it hasn't been doen for a while (if ever) and I have plans to do Scotland in April and the 10CR in September so she does need a bit of TLC. Mike
  16. looks like the vertical links are not available at the moment, most sites showing unavailable until end of March. Was about to change my LH one on my herald, just stripped them both down to check them. I think I replaced the RH but the LH looks original with some pitting above the thread. mike
  17. just switched the pinion on my starter motor from 10 to 9 and its seems to work fine, in fact sounds better so I think it should have always had a 9 tooth pinion... Just need a some cold weather to see if it will start when very cold... Previously it was pulling the battery down to 10V (new fully charged battery) when trying to start it and it was turning the engine very slowly. This has caused problems with the timing pickup (its on a Megasquirt fuel and ignition) making it very difficult to start. Have checked the volt drop between the battery and starter motor (when 10 tooth) it is was ~0.7V which doesn't seem too bad considering the current being drawn. No voltage difference between the engine block and negative terminal on the battery so the earths connections seems good. The starter is almost new with very good brushes. BTW The original reason for asking was that I was/am thinking about buying a Hi Torque starter which all seem to be 9 tooth. Mike
  18. ok just checked the engine number (FP) which I think makes it originally from a MG 1500 Midget! I think this used a standard Lucas Bendix type started motor The tapper on the teeth is away from the engine so I think is correct for a Bendix type starter motor rather than a pre engaged starter. So assuming that its from a MG 1500 then MG sites seem to show both 9 and 10 teeth for the MG 1500 starter motor.... So still don't understand why the starter has 10 teeth and where its come from.... I have just carefully taken the 10 tooth bendix of the original starter motor and fitted it to a spare GT6 starter motor (which had a 9 tooth pinion on it). I beginning to think that I should be using a 9 tooth pinion on it. Mike Rob: The gearbox is ex spitfire 3 rail OD with 10 spline shaft, the clutch plate is GCP103 and the pressure plate is GCK160.
  19. I have a 1500 engine (think it was from a Dolly). The starter motor I am using with it had 10 teeth. I am not sure if this came with the engine or was the original one when I had the 1300 engine in the car. All the sites I have looked at suggest that the pinion should be 9 teeth and most replacement motors seem to be 9 teeth. So can you use a 9 or 10 tooth starter motor or does the fly wheel have to be changed to suit the starter motor teeth? cheers mike
  20. See https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C870665 £16,000 for 13/60 Herald nice car but lots of money. Interesting comment about "extensive chassis strengthening welding work" sounds like a rotten chassis repair/bodge, for that money it should be perfect.... Sure I have seen it for sale somewhere before. Mike
  21. Unless you have win 10 professional you cant stop the updates. You can buy a Win10 key for very little on Ebay OR you can set the properties for you wifi on the Win10 machine to 'metered' and then it will not download the upgrades without asking! Had to do this on a small laptop I use as it doesn't have enough RAM to install the new versions of Win10 without removing everything first. This does leave your PC open to bugs and other nasty stuff but does give you control of when it does updates! Mike
  22. I have recently brought a dash board complete with instruments from a Bond GT4S. Never realised that the layout was different from the Vitesse with the fuel and temp gauge on the left of the speedo... The plan is to put this matching set into my Herald. I plan to convert the mechanical rev counter into an electronic one (change the internals and drive it direct from the Megasquirt) and get the speedo recalibrated. I have a few questions. The fuel gauge looks like it isn't driven from a voltage regulator, is it still a hot wire gauge and how different is the calibration from a late regulated one? The Bond GT4S was, I think, based on the early spitfire was the wiring the same? I am sure I have seen a list of the serial numbers and code numbers from Smiths gauges but cant find it! Anyone got any links I want to see what the difference is between my existing speedo (Smiths SN 6202/00A code 1216) and the Jaeger on SN 6121/16A code 1248. Were Jaeger gauges made by Smiths or a separate company. I don't want the dash board, which needs reconditioning, or the switches. If anyone is interested in them let me know. cheers mike
  23. Pete I have often wondered what the slider does, all I knew was that if it was not free to move, the door could open going around corners! When Heralds were new did you have to slam the door shut to make them close or is it old age (sagging body shells) and misaligned door/bodies? I guess I need to go to the TSSC offices and play with the cars in the display..... Mike
  24. re DAB does need a decent aerial. I have successfully used the windscreen stick one ones. But does depend on the radio, I had a JVC that was rubbish, replaced with a Kenwood and its superb, gets a signal where the JVC would give up. And it will switch automatically to FM (if the channel is on both FM and DAB). But even with a good radio, aerial there are still lots of places with no DAB reception..... One of the reasons that cant switch off FM. Mike
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