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Brian Sculpher

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  • Location
    Plymouth
  • Cars Owned
    I have now replaced my TR4 with a TR6

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  1. Hi All, Agreed it’s worth the challenge searching for parts especially with the assistance of TSSC people like yourselves :- Pete / Poppyman and Doug especially not forgetting a good sense of humor added to the mix. I will post a final comment with the car running when the parts are fitted with carbs color-tuned. Am now looking forward to doing the round Devon run on 5-Sept 2021. Best regards BRIAN (in Plymouth)
  2. Thank you Guys, Burlen were very helpful and had the parts - needle part for reference was Identified under the delfrin washer shaft and being a Stag item. Replacements due shortly as the mainstream parts suppliers were unable to identify. Once again great help thank you. Best regards Brian S
  3. Pete / Doug / Poppyman, Latest update Following all your previous most helpful comments. Prior to watching the video provided (both entertaining and informative) I had the car running although all the 6 plugs were sooted up - mixture to rich. I obtained a color tone kit and installed in no 2 & 6 cylinders although I was unable to achieve the blue flame when installing following warm up, color of flame remained bright yellow despite using mixture tool adjustment - just went overboard attempting to weaken the mixture. Since watching the video I strip down the first carb to find I hadn’t seated the needle shoulder flush with the piston re-installed in correct seated position - now in a weaker mixture position. Unfortunately while attempting the work dismantling the other carb needle cam I had already damaged the adjusting screw for the needle making final mixture adjustment impossible. I believe with all the assistance I’ve received I’m now almost there my issue is obtaining a new needle inclusive of adjusting screw - star washer could be re-used. Rimmers appear to have a needle only part no 519055 although I cannot find a replacement screw which controls the mixture adjustment - can anyone assist. Many thanks for all your help on this issue. Brian S
  4. The star washer/retainer is sat directly on the adjuster cam - when I was removing one carb needle up through the carb (last chance to remove) the seat of the adjusting cam was on the needle at max, unable to be split the thread apart again. Although the other carb appeared adjustable as the needle was removed easily. The diaphragms were replaced new although instead of sending 2 items they sent two joined as one twice noticed prior to install and they were gossamer thin. The pistons were both free movers and closed with a metal thud. Air filters were removed - spark plugs were all sooted up - prior they would have been brownish. Should I consider replacement needle/cam/star washer or try and tap the cam/star washer down a little - just not sure which is my best route.
  5. Hi Pete/Doug - O ring now installed successfully on both carbs although one was more challenging (belts & braces) your help was appreciated. Slight issue with the mixture control as I believe the car is running rich (tested by slightly raising piston there wasn’t a significant change apart from the engine speed apart from staying increasing). Although normal even tick over at 800/900 RPM, significant improvement since O ring installation. As the mixture control appears to be set at maximum travel adjustment (clockwise to weaken mixture) would it be possible to push/tap the star washer down a fraction further or is this not advisable - any additional thoughts? Brian
  6. Hi Guys Carb is a CD175, I already have the mixture control adjuster which has been adjusted via the dash pot accessed through the top level of the carb. Would I be correct following removal of the needle, the loading Brass part is pushed out carefully through the upper section inclusive of retaining star, mixture control and ‘O’ ring. Reinstated in reverse with the new O ring, assuming the previous adjustment of the mixture would remain as is. Just to add when I replaced the diaphragm on both carbs - one carb retained the correct oil damper level - would you agree the O ring is my issue. i look forward to your additional comments. Best regards BRIAN
  7. Thank you Doug - will do as you advised and I appreciated the bag in order not to loose the bits. Brian S
  8. One of my carbs loses oil in the damper quite quickly - can anyone advise the best cure.
  9. Hi did some research last year with the idea of using this product - however the supplier indicated it had to be applied on a regular basis annually. Just not viable considering on going costs and application. Trust this post helpfull Brian (Plymouth)
  10. Has anyone out there modified the passenger seat in order it will retract back further - then return to normal functioning position with occupant seated. Brian
  11. Thank you for everyone’s posts, I now believe the best route is to leave well alone as with my constant persistence may well uncover new problems I didn’t have before. I recall my father saying on many occasions if the car is going well and general maintenance is maintained leave well alone. Many thanks to all Brian
  12. Thanks Pete - although not sure are you advocating a normal washing powder or a proprietary brand of soda, can you give me a type you used. Are there any other suggestions such as a rad cleaner??
  13. Hello Pete, Thanks for your prompt post - however I have already had a good poke around with a stiff wire to no avail. My concerns being more long term, although I have no current overheating problems, I would feel more comfortable with being able to drain - any other suggestions? Thanks BRIAN
  14. Has anyone had a similar problem - having removed the engine block water drain plug (1974 TR6 North American spec engine and ancillaries) I am unable to drain any water from the block, check hole for silt build up with inspection camera although unable to see clearly inside. The car was rebuilt circa 2018, assume they overlooked the block was clear - any suggestion how I may resolve safely? Best regards BRIAN
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