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Brian Sculpher

TSSC Member
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About Brian Sculpher

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  • Location
    Plymouth
  • Cars Owned
    I have now replaced my TR4 with a TR6

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  1. Appreciate the replies guys - although your suggestion Pete would be a viable one off emergency bonnet release using the steel cable/handle supplied by Rimmers car pars through the inner wing perhaps encased in a plastic tube. Not sure if anyone else has undertaken a modification in this area?
  2. I have a very nice 1973 Triumph Stag and like previous cars I’ve owned TR4 & TR6 I have installed a secondary bonnet release mechanism. I purchased a secondary release cable from Rimmers specifically for the Triumph Stag with secondary install instructions. The instructions were specifically for a TR4 & TR6 nota lot of good as the release catch differs from The Stags. They supplied a length of steel cable (not encased in a sheath with a pull handle attached, my question being has anyone installed a secondary/emergency cable in a Triumph Stag if so can anyone advise how this can be successfully achieved. any help would be appreciated With thanks Brian Sculpher
  3. Thank you both you’ve been most helpful - I’ll do the same test now with a little of DOT 5 in order to be sure I don’t get any separation. At lease I will now then when I flush the bleed/flush the system out later. cheers Brian S
  4. I’ve just purchased a very nice Triumph Stag mk 1.5 My issue is with the type brake & clutch fluid used = currently I have tested the current fluid without a definitive answer as to type. The following test proved more successful with a small sample of the very clear liquid in the reservoir wether it would mix with Dot 4. Result = the clear mixture would not mix and stayed on top of the DOT4 even when shaken up. Has anyone any idea what type of potentially clear silicone brake & clutch fluid I have as I understood it was normally tainted a purple colour. Thanks for looking Brian Scupher
  5. Has anyone had the need to increase the seat travel back especially with the passenger seat in order to increase the exit clearance from the car from the standard maximum travel?
  6. Thank you Pete and all other contributions - most helpful Many thanks guys Brian
  7. Hello Pete, Just so I fully understand your comments. The activation rod fork and spring were also replaced within the gearbox when installing the new clutch. So my understanding is if I was to apply a little more pressure on the fork rod leaving the slave cylinder that might stop the budgie flutter. Would I be able to test that theory as when the adjustable rod is at full travel are you saying apply a little more thrust. I’m confident the gearbox was realigned correctly as my chum is well known in TR circles Graham Waggers although he is also baffled by the noise. Is it likely with use it will go away as I don’t want to incur unnecessary damage by continual use - what say you? Best Brian
  8. I recently replaced my clutch complete BORG & BECK. I also replaced the bearing and carrier ensuring the locking pin was installed. All appeared OK until start up as there was a continual flutter/clatter until the clutch was depressed. Gearbox removed again all appeared to be correctly fitted although follow start up the noise persisted. The clutch slave cylinder ( replaced some months earlier) was bleed as a precaution. The clutch slave cylinder activation fork was replaced for the adjustable type. After some further adjustments (rod adjusted longer than the standard type) the clutch operation and release was now much improved from the sharp snap release. The car drives fine and the clutch and gearbox works as it should —- apart from the constant metal type flutter which reduces when the car is in direct drive mode. CAN ANYONE ASSIST ME - getting to the route cause of my problem Best Brian
  9. Appreciate your help on this one - noted gearbox out job. Graham Vaggers was also copied in on your post - who I understand you are familiar with. Many thanks for your useful comments Brian S
  10. Clutch/gearbox engagement issue - 1974 Triumph TR6 Has anyone any idea how I may overcome - recently I had difficulty engaging reverse gear without the gear grating. I decided to replace the clutch slave cylinder complete with activating fork system fully bled. I also changed the gearbox oil incl of overdrive. My first test in the garage (engine cold) appeared to operate correctly in all gears especially reverse. Although when the engine had warmed up the reverse gear grating returned and included difficulty engaging first gear. The clutch bite operation is almost on the floor of the car in order I may take off in gear. HISTORY - some time ago a colleague told me the fork which engages the slave cylinder was in the top hole pin which meant the operation wasn’t straight engaging the cylinder as soon as I put it back in the top hole it worked. AM now totally confused is this a internal gearbox issue requiring a rebuild or alternatively an adjustment issue or maybe the clutch needs replacing. CAN ANYONE ASSIST ME. With thanks Brian SCULPHER
  11. Has any encountered a problem engaging reverse (Triumph TR6 J type overdrive gearbox). All the forward gears work as they should apart from crashing into reverse. I have currently drained the gearbox/overdrive (oil was black) and cleaned the filters before refilling with EP80/90. There was no difference at all - I understand there could be a mesh alignment issue engaging a non synchro gear by means of engaging first prior to attempting to get reverse. The fork which attaches to the clutch thrust bar is set at the bottom joint, the clutch bite is certainly not high quite low in effect. Has anyone else had a similar problem - before this issue occurred I merely slapped the gearstick across and reverse engaged easily. With thanks Brian
  12. Hi All, Agreed it’s worth the challenge searching for parts especially with the assistance of TSSC people like yourselves :- Pete / Poppyman and Doug especially not forgetting a good sense of humor added to the mix. I will post a final comment with the car running when the parts are fitted with carbs color-tuned. Am now looking forward to doing the round Devon run on 5-Sept 2021. Best regards BRIAN (in Plymouth)
  13. Thank you Guys, Burlen were very helpful and had the parts - needle part for reference was Identified under the delfrin washer shaft and being a Stag item. Replacements due shortly as the mainstream parts suppliers were unable to identify. Once again great help thank you. Best regards Brian S
  14. Pete / Doug / Poppyman, Latest update Following all your previous most helpful comments. Prior to watching the video provided (both entertaining and informative) I had the car running although all the 6 plugs were sooted up - mixture to rich. I obtained a color tone kit and installed in no 2 & 6 cylinders although I was unable to achieve the blue flame when installing following warm up, color of flame remained bright yellow despite using mixture tool adjustment - just went overboard attempting to weaken the mixture. Since watching the video I strip down the first carb to find I hadn’t seated the needle shoulder flush with the piston re-installed in correct seated position - now in a weaker mixture position. Unfortunately while attempting the work dismantling the other carb needle cam I had already damaged the adjusting screw for the needle making final mixture adjustment impossible. I believe with all the assistance I’ve received I’m now almost there my issue is obtaining a new needle inclusive of adjusting screw - star washer could be re-used. Rimmers appear to have a needle only part no 519055 although I cannot find a replacement screw which controls the mixture adjustment - can anyone assist. Many thanks for all your help on this issue. Brian S
  15. The star washer/retainer is sat directly on the adjuster cam - when I was removing one carb needle up through the carb (last chance to remove) the seat of the adjusting cam was on the needle at max, unable to be split the thread apart again. Although the other carb appeared adjustable as the needle was removed easily. The diaphragms were replaced new although instead of sending 2 items they sent two joined as one twice noticed prior to install and they were gossamer thin. The pistons were both free movers and closed with a metal thud. Air filters were removed - spark plugs were all sooted up - prior they would have been brownish. Should I consider replacement needle/cam/star washer or try and tap the cam/star washer down a little - just not sure which is my best route.
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