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Everything posted by s99sdp

  1. I’ve heard there’s a set up guide on here somewhere, I’ll have a search
  2. 5 miles? 😮 Mines done about 200 just bombing round the back lanes of Northamptonshire. I need to get on with the interior but I think I’ll get a mobile carb man to pay me a visit and get it tuned up as it’s running quite rich atm
  3. Thanks for this Doug, that makes complete sense, even to me. I feel very inept sometimes as things that I would easily learn and pick up like this just don't stick and no matter how many times I read things it's like I haven't read it at all sometimes. I'm lucky though, other people didn't manage to get treated during lockdown so I'm definitely counting my blessings. fyi, I don't take my car out in the rain 😆but now I've had the electrics fixed I can go out at night without fear off the dash going up in smoke again ☺️ Thanks again, off to ebay for some fuse shopping. SP
  4. Hi Colin, I've had the old fuse box swapped out for new one with spade fittings as I mentioned earlier. Do I need the 35amp in the spade version? Regards SP
  5. There is indeed a lot of info here but I don’t understand it because I’m not the sharpest and after being diagnosed with cancer during lockdown I have an issue with two masses in the frontal lobe of my brain that causes me to struggle with concentration and focusing on things so that’s why I was hoping for a clear answer as I’ve read a fair bit and I still can’t get it. that’s why I just asked if I needed to swap the 30 amp fuses the electrician left me with for 35 amp. im assuming now is should really swap them out for 35 amp? SP
  6. Thanks johny, I'll just leave it as it is then. 👍
  7. Sorry for dragging this topic out of the darkest depths. I've recently had an auto electrician round to replace my fuse box for a blade version (I replaced it previously with a new glass fuse holder and wasn't happy) and while he was there he diagnosed an issue with the dash lights and put some additional earths in for me for safety. The old fuses were 35a, he's left 3 30a blade fuses in the new box. I've put led bulbs into the dash lights and intend to slowly swap led bulbs all around in time but here's the question. Should these three fuses still be 35a, should I source some new ones and swap out the 30a he left in? I'm always honest on here, I'm not clever, I don't understand electrics hence why I had this guy in to do the work so shall I swap these out for 35a? Thanks in advance 👍
  8. I know its a big ask but I'd like to get rid of it as a job lot, it's taking up too much space in my old fella's garage so If someone wants the lot then strips out and sells what they don't want then happy days. Kevin, please accept my apologies if this isn't acceptable, I'll happily remove it or you can if you'd prefer I didn't have this on here. This is the simple stuff I could see: 4 engines FH 29375 HE (1300 Mk4) FD 86303 HE (1300 Mk3) FD 92333 HF (1300 Mk3) DG 935 ESS (I understand this is a 1300 Dolomite engine) Front Windscreen Windscreen Surround Chrome Topper Bootlid (fibreglass) including inner frame 3 x Bonnet Stays Indicator units and lenses (many) Tale light units and lenses (many) Temp Gauges Voltage Gauges Speedo’s Rev Counters 2 x Hood frames (1 x Mk4 1 x Mk3) 2 x Seats (need refurb) 5 x Seat Runners 2 Gearbox Tunnels 1 Rear Diff Bonnet Catche(s) Various door cards Rear bumpers Hub cap(s) Steering Wheel Knee Pads (pair) Expansion Bottles Washer Bottles Air Filters Headlamps Chrome headlamp surrounds 3 x Carbs 2 x Thermostat tops Speedo Cable Lots of seals and rubbers 3 x choke cables with dash pulls Bags of varying bots. Seatbelt Box of new parts from Rimmers (including door glass frames) Original Air Box with BL Cars sticker 2 x rear springs Lots and lots of other bits and bobs SP
  9. Thanks Richard, I think the engines are 1300's but I need to get them out and check for sure and get the numbers off them. SP
  10. I'd need a trailer, I've got 4 engines to start with 😬
  11. Hi all, At the risk of being wrestled to the ground, waterboarded and then beaten within an inch of my life 🤣🤣 ( I make you lot sound terrible), can I ask where on the site I can post a job lot of items for sale? We've decided to clear all the parts out, hopefully as a job lot. I've taken pics and have a decent idea whats there so if I'm allowed to post, can you let me know where? Thanks in advance SP
  12. Well just to update you, I finally got under the car this weekend and released the pin from 50 years of hurt (gunk, road juice, oil, road kill, ming etc) and its now been freed. We have a spare diff here so luckily I located that one under it's own gunk first and saw how it worked. Basically its a split pin with the ends bent over inside that must rise under pressure. Anyway, that said, I'm sure it will end up the seal that leaking 😆 Thanks again for all the advice, I'm sure we'll replace the seals on the diff at some point but this little tweak is well worth a try to start with. SP
  13. Hello all, I'm close to renewal time on my Spitfire insurance, I'm currently with RH and the figure they've given me is £120.00. Not a bank breaker but I thought I'd ask who the other members here were using and what your insurances cost? SP
  14. I know the cars temp is ok as before the first one started playing up, which I assume was the original, the temp never went just above half. I replaced it for one I had in my spares box and as that showed the temp quite low I thought, for £13.00 I'll get a new one. Had an email exchange with the seller on ebay about the car being negative earth as he said a positive earth would be ok for a Mk3, I assured him it wouldn't and then when the negative earth version turned up the fittings were different to the tow VS's I'd had on the car previously. Then when I did fit it and and the temp gauge was barely registering I started to wonder what could be the issue. If the different fittings meant I'd been sent the wrong item....blah blah blah blah blah SP
  15. The I & B lettering are visible on both the old and new VS and I know I've attached them correctly plus the new one has been screwed in tightly. I had to make up two short patch leads to convert the loom, I didnt want to cut the original loom and refit spade fittings. In my mind I thought it was best not to shorten any loom wires even by a few mm as they're tight enough as it is. SP
  16. Thanks Pete, excellent info as always
  17. Yes the fuel gauge works fine and although it may sound stupid, I filled the car straight up with fuel and the gauge moved up accordingly. It was just the temp gauge that worried me hence the questions and the concern regarding the fittings. With the old VS the temp gauge moved to a max of half way as the car warmed up, with this one it barely gets out of the white area. I am running a large rad and when I touch the front veins it doesn't feel too hot, heather works fine too so I think maybe I don't have anything to worry about? SP
  18. Evening all! I swapped my voltage stabiliser out for a new one and for varying reasons which I can't be bothered to type at length, I have these questions. 1. Mk3 1970 Spitfire is a negative earth vehicle, not a positive earth one. Correct? 2. The spades on the back of the old VS are all male, like this.... But the new one has 2 male and two female. The reason i'm asking the questions is that the seller tried to sell me a positive earth VS and I made sure he checked and posted me a negative earth one. When it arrived the fittings were different as described, it works BUT the temp gauge barely moves now. Maybe a symptom of having a large radiator fitted but would the mixed fittings be a sign I have the WRONG VS? SP
  19. Thank you for that, I'll take a look and see if I can work out what you mean. 👍 SP
  20. I wont be checking anything scrapman. The guy doing the work has quoted me £75 for the parts so I'm just trying to work out if he's buying them in solid gold format. I'll take on board your comment, have a read up what it is, where it is and see if I can check it first. thank you for the heads up. I've just a DM exchange with Johny, I think the best thing to do is get under it and see exactly where the leak is coming from first. At that point I can decide what exactly needs to be bought rather than go for the Hail Mary approach. SP
  21. Thanks for that, I'll get on and order it now. 👍 SP
  22. ok cool, is this all I need to order?......... SP
  23. no idea, would it be best I find out exactly where the leak is first so that if the side seals don't need changing then we just leave them alone? SP
  24. I think it makes sense they replace all of them. They may have been in there since the car was built for all I know so I'd rather go belt and braces and replace all 3.
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