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s99sdp

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Posts posted by s99sdp

  1. On 24/08/2022 at 16:49, Jon J 1250 said:

    This is how I'm doing it, seems to be going well so far.

    I wish I could use a sandblaster but I don't have the facilities for that, plus I am getting back to bright metal well enough, It's just a LOT of work!

    Cleaning back to bare metal, acid etch prime, 2-3 coats of satin black, 2 coats of wedgewood blue (the whole car will eventually be restored into this colour), leaving some black showing through the overspray as per original paint.

    Then a good coat of Lanoguard spray, with Lanoguard grease painted over the seams.

    As expected holding up well so far, I'll try and do an update in 5 years or so...

    JJ

     

     

    IMG_0049.jpeg

    IMG_0091.jpeg

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    IMG_0417.jpeg

    IMG_0458.jpeg

     

     

     

    Christ thats a lot of work.

  2. 7 hours ago, ahebron said:

    I was advised and used a zinc phosphate primer, then then a protection paint followed by rattlecan red on the Vitesse 6.
    This was after I stripped it back after I saw the professionally applied coating flaking off.

    Wow! It looks like I'll be under my car for quite a while.

     

     

  3. Hello wise and wonderful people.

    I will soon be starting to scrape off the old crud and wire wheeling the underside of my Mk3 Spit. My car ins't a show pony and won't be winning any awards so I'm looking for suggestions of what I can spray or brush on to the underside of the tub and chassis to prevent rust. 

    I've been warned that some stuff on sale can be flammable and to steer clear of it and I'm also looking for something thats going to last a few years as I don't really want to be doing this each year. 

    If you have any suggestions they would be gratefully received.

    SP

  4. 13 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:

    Not sure he after just water!

    Anyway that's a great story. I have an an original boxed Syncro check Model B89, which I found on ebay after much searching and yes they typically go for north of £50.

    Mine has a rubber cone. Works really well and much better than the basic Gunsen Carbalancer jobbies.

    The only adjustment on the gauge itself is the small black knob, which is moved in or out to 'adjust the meter to approximately half scale'.

    Get the car up to temperature, slacken off one of the pinch bolts on the linking bar and adjust the throttle stops until both carbs give an equal flow on the gauge. Retighten the pinch bolt (before revving).

    Well worth doing!

    Ian

     

    🤣🤣 I did actually give him some money.

    I'll have a tinker when I've got some time when the weather turns. I keep meaning to stock up on biscuits and go and visit @Pete Lewis. I might sneak this along with me and get him to give me some on the spot training

     

    sp

  5. 3 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Then don't touch them!! Not even to check that they're ok. My first GT6, I twiddled the knob on the carb just a little, wouldn't do any harm surely... conked out about 20 miles from home. Flooded! A great mate, now sadly gone, reset them for me and told me that if I ever touched them again he'd take both my hands off at the wrist.

    That seems like perfectly sound advice to me

    • Haha 1
  6. 41 minutes ago, JohnD said:

    Even better, if it's still supple.

    And you even have the original instruction leaflet!

    Yes I'm fortunate thats there and the guy was really kind to offer it to me. I'm just a bit nervy messing around with the carbs as I have no idea what I'm doing and my mind goes numb when the nerves set in. 😬

     

  7. 2 hours ago, JohnD said:

    SP, your "SynchroCheck" is the Queen of such devices!  You lucky man!

    That rubber disc should be glued to the trumpet, but it's probably hard as nails by now.  Cut out a disc from new rubber.   It's to seal the device to the throat of the carb. As you press it on.

    Note the reading and compare with the other throat.  The actual numbers mean nothing.  Adjust to get them the same.  Voila.

    Good luck!

    John

    The rubbers are actually in great condition.

    I'll give it a go at some point, possibly after summer in case I mess it up and it stops me from taking the car out in decent weather

     

    sp

  8. 12 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Just keep them both the same and you'll be fine.

    Trust me, I won't be touching anything once I have the readings. All my dabblings have cost me money.

    Actually come to think of it, just about everything has cost me money 😂

     

     

    SP

  9. Some kind gent stopped as he was walking by when I was diagnosing an electrical fault and said.

    "I've got something that might be of use to you, just give me a drink"

     

    So after giving him a glass of water he returned with this.....

    image.thumb.jpeg.c9c69ab6ba022d1c5ce02bdc2aeb0537.jpeg

    If only I had a clue what the readings meant :)

     

     

    SP

     

    • Haha 1
  10. 18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    sorry to say lead balls is a load of balls and has absolutely no effect on the fuel same as snake oil , its claims are just rubbish

    leave themin they wont do any harm...or any good 

    as for fuel lines i would only change them if they are looking fretted or sad 

    club shop sells gates hose which is bullet proof , most E problems are down to fake e bay fuel hose of un known specification  fake hose breaks down inside and blocks float jets and helps breed rubber slivers/particles

    E5  97+ ron is the closest you can get to what the cars were designed to run on you can use factory settings  and get the best performance 

    and economy ,  if you use E10 95ron you need to retard the timing and change the mixture you get lower performance and a hotter running engine 

    the lower the E the less water content to give you problems if laid up .

    Pete

    Thanks Pete, I bought some pipe from the club shop as we discussed elsewhere. I'll swap the pipes out and and leave the lead balls where they are.

    You the man. 👍

     

    SP

  11. On 13/04/2022 at 10:23, Pete Lewis said:

    I see this is mk3 / IV spitty 

    agree dump addatives  save  the money to buy fuel  use car more   

    there is many years of lead memory in the head castings  dont worry about this until you do need the head off then its something to consider having exhaust inserts fitted 

    stick to E5 97+ ron fuel keep it advanced to factory spec and it will do what its says in the book 

    and drive the smile   loose the myths stick to sound triumph basics    sleep easy 

    we dont have any real concerns of valve seat recession  on the forum  ,if the tappet gaps continually close up then time to go unleaded 

     

    Pete

     

    I've got the lead balls added into my tank in my 1970 mk3. Would you recommend I just remove them, change the fuel pipes and put E5 in?

     

    Cheers

    SP

  12. 3 hours ago, daverclasper said:

    Hi. If you want to get someone else to look at the carbs (If they are standard, then pretty simple to sort out and tune mostly, plenty of info on the web and on here), then if possible, I would look for an old school guy, who worked on these in the past and has a good rep.

    Plenty of folk out there ready to take your your money and not care at all (or am I too cynical?).

    Dave   

    I’ve heard there’s a set up guide on here somewhere, I’ll have a search

  13. 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:

    I'm with you there SP my wipers only get to work at the MOT. And then you have to think about the effects of sunshine on the paint work, it's a minefield. my car only did 5 miles last year. :lol:

    Doug

     

    5 miles? 😮

    Mines done about 200 just bombing round the back lanes of Northamptonshire.

    I need to get on with the interior but I think I’ll get a mobile carb man to pay me a visit and get it tuned up as it’s running quite rich atm

  14. 50 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

    SP,

    Sorry to hear that, I have a lot of trouble with concentration and focusing, but it's usually down to Bingham's IPA :)

    What were saying is they should be running at around 17 amps or less. But on occasion you may get a surge, windscreen wipers on a sticky windscreen, A spike when you turn the headlights on.

    The original 17/35 amp fuses are expensive, but blade fuses are cheap. 

    In your position I would buy a box of assorted blade fuses, 30 for £2.50 on Ebay. Start with 20 amps, turn everything on, if something blows replace with a 25 and so on. 

    Keep them in the car, you may need them when it gets dark and starts raining!

    Doug

    Thanks for this Doug, that makes complete sense, even to me. 

    I feel very inept sometimes as things that I would easily learn and pick up like this just don't stick and no matter how many times I read things it's like I haven't read it at all sometimes. I'm lucky though, other people didn't manage to get treated during lockdown so I'm definitely counting my blessings.

    fyi, I don't take my car out in the rain 😆but now I've had the electrics fixed I can go out at night without fear off the dash going up in smoke again ☺️

    Thanks again, off to ebay for some fuse shopping.

     

     

    SP

  15. 2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    No; you need what I call dual-purpose fuses, or 17/35s - they run at 17amp but when the current reaches 35amp max they blow. By that time they're usually red hot. 

    I buy from this supplier for my GT6, pack of five:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-35A-17A-CONT-CAR-AUTO-AUTOMOTIVE-GLASS-CARTRIDGE-VINTAGE-MOTOR-FUSE-6-3x-31mm/291022081317?hash=item43c2448d25:g:vKEAAOSw~BxdFkO8

    Hi Colin,

    I've had the old fuse box swapped out for new one with spade fittings as I mentioned earlier.

    Do  I need the 35amp in the spade version?

     

    Regards

     

    SP

  16. There is indeed a lot of info here but I don’t understand it because I’m not the sharpest and after being diagnosed with cancer during lockdown I have an issue with two masses in the frontal lobe of my brain that causes me to struggle with concentration and focusing on things so that’s why I was hoping for a clear answer as I’ve read a fair bit and I still can’t get it.

    that’s why I just asked if I needed to swap the 30 amp fuses the electrician left me with for 35 amp.

    im assuming now is should really swap them out for 35 amp? 


    SP

  17. 19 minutes ago, johny said:

    I would leave the fuses as they are, the new 30A items should be fine. The wires are rated above that current so those fuses will always prevent them from overheating and burning which is your worst fear. A smaller fuse would give more protection to your wiper motor for example which, if starting to seize, would draw more current so the damage to it could be reduced if the fuse blows sooner. However for this to work properly each electrical component in the car should have its own fuse which just isnt practical. 

    An alternative would be to calculate or measure the maximum current draw on each of those three fuses and then fit a fuse with a suitable rating which presumably is what Triumph did in the beginning. Of course if you change the headlight for LEDs the current draw will be less on that part of the circuit and you could use a smaller fuse but do you really want to get involved in that and having to use different size fuses?

    Thanks johny, I'll just leave it as it is then. 👍

  18. Sorry for dragging this topic out of the darkest depths. I've recently had an auto electrician round to replace my fuse box for a blade version (I replaced it previously with a new glass fuse holder and wasn't happy) and while he was there he diagnosed an issue with the dash lights and put some additional earths in for me for safety.

     

    The old fuses were 35a, he's left 3 30a blade fuses in the new box. I've put led bulbs into the dash lights and intend to slowly swap led bulbs all around in time but here's the question.

    Should these three fuses still be 35a, should I source some new ones and swap out the 30a he left in?

     

    I'm always honest on here, I'm not clever, I don't understand electrics hence why I had this guy in to do the work so shall I swap these out for 35a?

     

    Thanks in advance 👍

  19. Well just to update you, I finally got under the car this weekend and released the pin from 50 years of hurt (gunk, road juice, oil, road kill, ming etc) and its now been freed. 

    We have a spare diff here so luckily I located that one under it's own gunk first and saw how it worked. Basically its a split pin with the ends bent over inside that must rise under pressure.

     

    Anyway, that said, I'm sure it will end up the seal that leaking 😆

     

    Thanks again for all the advice, I'm sure we'll replace the seals on the diff at some point but this little tweak is well worth a try to start with.

    SP

  20. Hello all,

    I'm close to renewal time on my Spitfire insurance, I'm currently with RH and the figure they've given me is £120.00. Not a bank breaker but I thought I'd ask who the other members here were using and what your insurances cost?

     

    SP

  21. 35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    over the years we have had apart from VS problems  many reading overheated on the old forum even had an engine change   all because the wrong temp sender had been fitted

    if some plonker supplies a moving iron non stabilised sender  for a VS gauged  car you get hot readings 

    non stabilised  121997

    stabilised GTR108 

    mix and not matched  gives you worrying readings but the engine is fine 

    Pete

     

    I know the cars temp is ok as before the first one started playing up, which I assume was the original, the temp never went just above half. 

    I replaced it for one I had in my spares box and as that showed the temp quite low I thought, for £13.00 I'll get a new one. Had an email exchange with the seller on ebay about the car being negative earth as he said a positive earth would be ok for a Mk3, I assured him it wouldn't and then when the negative earth version turned up the fittings were different to the tow VS's I'd had on the car previously. Then when I did fit it and and the temp gauge was barely registering I started to wonder what could be the issue. If the different fittings meant I'd been sent the wrong item....blah blah blah blah blah

     

    SP

  22. 12 minutes ago, Nigel Clark said:

    I would expect the male connectors on the stabiliser are for the 12V supply, and the female terminals are for the instruments. It's a matter of safety, the wiring loom terminals are less likely to short out if female terminal on the loom connects to male terminal on the voltage stabiliser.

    However, can't guarantee this, so look for engravings on the back as Pete says.

    Nigel

    The I & B lettering are visible on both the old and new VS and I know I've attached them correctly plus the new one has been screwed in tightly. 

    I had to make up two short patch leads to convert the loom, I didnt want to cut the original loom and refit spade fittings. In my mind I thought it was best not to shorten any loom wires even by a few mm as they're tight enough as it is.

     

    SP

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