RogerH
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Posts posted by RogerH
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Hi Non-Member
if the nut is simply holding the tapers together then why is the torque recommended to be so high.
A mere 10lbft will do that - BUT the hub will soon fall off.
According to other posts there is also a key in place.
I shall take my many years of engineering experience and go read a comic
Roger
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Hi Folks,
A high torque MUST be placed on the nut in order to keep the shaft under a tensile load.
If the torque is underdone it may allow flexing on the micro scale and cause failure.
I would suggest the tensile strength of the thread run-our area is far in excess of the load required to strip the threads in the nut.
I haven't a clue who manufactures your drive shafts but the 'repro' stub axles in a TR4A IRS as supplied by Moss are top quality. (I know yours are different).
Your first port of call should be the garage as they will know what has been fitted.
Roger
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Fawley Hill is a treasure - long may it remain so.
Roger
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Hi Rich,
what size holes do you punch/drill.
The standard punch pliers does 3/16". I have found this is way too small and often produces a lump of weld that is not attached to the subsurface.
I use 1/4" or even 5/16" on thick areas.
Roger
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3 hours ago, Chris A said:
I'm following this thread with interest as there is a slim chance I might have to replace the ignition switch so will need something.
I had been thinking of old blunt chisel and medium sized mallet 😱 but a bit of wood and a couple of nails sounds far more sophisticated, also cheap & I have the bits.
If you have the bezel with 6 indents then you only need 3 nails.
A nice piece of Manogamy or Oak would make it look the bees knees.
Roger
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A typical small current 'thin walled' wire runs at about 11amps.
To be safe only put half the current through it So an 11amp (16/.020) would be happy with 5amps
Your ignition White wires would be happy with this.
Roger
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I make my own bezel tools. Requires a bit of turning/drilling/Knurling & milling but end up with a nice tool
You could always use a round piece of wood. Use small nails trimmed to size. Easy.
Roger
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My Reply was in error. I thought you were dismantling the rear hubs.
Roger
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1 hour ago, Mjit said:
So I'm looking to replace the stub axles on my 2500 (which normally require pressing out) and have a feeling the track control arm bushes are past their best (which also need pressing in/out). I live in London so there isn't exactly an abundance of 'proper' garages who fix things, just the modern 'replace the unit' types - and all of them have to pass on London rents so am probably looking at £100...and Machine Mart hydraulic presses start from £192 for a 4 tonne/£216 for a 10 tonne.
Is a 10 tonne likely to be enough for Triumph press fit parts or are you really looking at a 20 tonne press (where the price jumps to a somewhat less friendly £575)?
I think they are similar to the TR hubs.
There is a simple 'Churchill' tool that separates the hub. Using any form of press may distort or even break the hub flanges.
'Enginuity' in Acton can do all this.
Why are you taking te stubs out?
Roger
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Have you considered using a servo to take the pressure off your leg.
Roger
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A few years back I had to cut into a sill on a TR4A and found that the Waxoyl that I applied during restoration and re-coated every two years had
come off the metal in sheets and the underlying metal was rusty.
I now use Dinitol 3125 (also available in clear as #1000). This stays put.
Roger
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Hi Rich,
regarding small 'iffy' areas like in the heater box it is often better to cut out a bigger area as the welding is more controlled.
Roger
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Hi Sandy,
this may be a silly idea but here goes-
Remove the sump.
Assemble the top of the engine
Pressurise the cooling system and look for water leaks underneath.
Roger
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Hi Folks,
I do not know anything about UK politics before WW2 but since 1945 EVERY UK Gov't have been utterly useless.
They come up with an idea but have no clue how to implement it.
Every utility within the UK has been done for the day but not looking at tomorrow.
ALL Gov't only act for today because this gets them 'brownie' points. If they plan for tomorrow the opposition my get the points. Selfish through and through.
And don;t forget - they lie.
Roger
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I use Multicore Lead solder from RS Components https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Solder
Works very well and available in different gauges.
Roger
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I thought this was a forum thread about grease nipples.
But now I realise this is a forum thread about grease nipple threads
Going for a lay down now.
Roger
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Hi Neil,
I then entered the shop (last Friday morning), as you left, and Will was running around trying to find somebody to edit the parts book before the next edition.
They were concerned they had just missed the 'stop press' date.
Roger
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Hi Folks,
1Kg is pretty small for any car fire. 2Kg as a minimum.
Also do not allow the gauge to get knocked off if you keep it in the car cabin. It don't arf make a mess
Roger
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You need a proper car paint stockist. They can match the colour - spot on.
If you are anywhere near Hanwell in West London then Colourite in Boston Manor road are good.
Or L E Went near Kingston
Roger
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There are plenty of TR's in the breakers.
Go on the TRR forum - they have a BUY/SELL/SWAP forum where you can ask a question.
You need to log into the forum but that is no big deal.
Roger
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Hi Colin,
using a multimeter (DVM or AVO) set the meter to Volts (20 or so)
Place a meter prod on one connector and the other to earth.
If that is the starter solenoid connector you will get no reading
If it is an AUX 12V outlet then you will get 12V (battery volts)
Switch to Ohms - place the meter prod on the connector that gave no reading and you should get a few hundred Ohms - this is the coil of the solenoid.
Roger
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Silk screen
Roger
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Have a look here https://www.tracytools.com/?keyword=adjustable+reamer&route=product%2Fsearch
TRacy tools do some nice stuff - not too expensive. These will easily cut through your soft material.
This one is close to your size https://www.tracytools.com/17-32-19-32-adjustable-reamer?keyword=adjustable reamer
Roger
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CDD uprated drive shafts
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted
A small woodruff key will assist a well torqued taper to stay in place.
A decent tensile load will support the thread run out by removing other unwanted loads.
Good bye.
Roger